bad day.. sho hates me again..**anyhelp**

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ThatShoGuy

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I have a tick that happens when the engine is cold and goes away when warm. It is an exhaust manifold leak.

One way for you to find out is to unplug the EGR vacuum line this will stop the heat soak caused by the EGR gasses and the associated thermal expansion. May be too late with the stripped out threads though.

well i cleaned the holes out they were filled with junk.

grabbed some longer bolts and retreaded it.....

i installed the rear 4 new plugs and resealed the cam cover and check the cams all is good..

what the heck could it be??? im goin crazy..
 

ThatShoGuy

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well i been thinking about this car since i had this issue.....

if it was metal on metal or something let go or is on its way of letting go wouldn't i find metal in my oil???

if the plastic on the tensioner came apart wouldn't i find it in the oil....

same as for the knocking if metal has worn out wouldn't i find thos metal pieces in my oil..

i know that both heads look as clean as they were when i installed them the oil is clean when i changed it and i have put about 500miles on the new stuff STILL NEW LOOKING!!!! it does sound as if it could be coming form the timing cover from the front of the motor? idk.....
 

ThatShoGuy

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well once again i sat at the bank for like 5min and the knock quit.. what a pain!!! any input thanks
 

ThatShoGuy

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No exhaust leaks and no change in noise when the accessory belt is off right?

i know i have an exhaust leak.. at the front head at the manifold to head...

but once the motor warms that is gone....

and yea the noise is still there when the accessory/water pump belts are off.
 

SHOZ123

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Is there anyone around you that you could take it too that is on the forum? It's really hard to diagnosis something like this with out actually being there.

Maybe bring it down to me, I'll look it over.
 

ThatShoGuy

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Is there anyone around you that you could take it too that is on the forum? It's really hard to diagnosis something like this with out actually being there.

Maybe bring it down to me, I'll look it over.

what would that cost??? and were you located??
 

SHOZ123

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I'm a 100 miles Straight south of Chicago near the small town of L'Erable,
IL. Ashkum is a bit bigger and may actually be on the map. Cost would be minimal as would the guarantee. :)
 

ThatShoGuy

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I'm a 100 miles Straight south of Chicago near the small town of L'Erable,
IL. Ashkum is a bit bigger and may actually be on the map. Cost would be minimal as would the guarantee. :)

that's a pretty good ride.. i live close to Detroit.... i have no way to toe it and i wouldn't trust it for that long ride... i guess if its still knocking after Xmas ill be trying to get a hold of you and possibly trying to get the car to you...
 

SHOZ123

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Yes Detroit is 7-8 hour drive. You are probably closer to NESHO.
 
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ThatShoGuy

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Yes Detroit is 7-8 hour drive. You are probably closer to NESHO.

yea idk ... you know more of my story behind this car lol..

i just dont wanna get ripped off.. and i want someone that knows!!!! what there doing... and you gave me great help so far...

i thought you were part of NESHO????

all i know is i come here for help and whoever answers it is all some lol ..

thanks again..

im really leaning to my tq converter cuz this mornin when the car was cold it wasnt locking(dont know if it should).. well i notices soon as it started to lock up the knock was there.... also notices that my rpms is about 3-500 lower then when it was cold..
 

ThatShoGuy

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also wanted to add its been 5weeks 1day today.. 1000miles ,1 oil change and
hasnt got any worse... i dont get it.
 

SHOZ123

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i thought you were part of NESHO????

Midwest division......

all i know is i come here for help and whoever answers it is all some lol ..

thanks again..

im really leaning to my tq converter cuz this mornin when the car was cold it wasnt locking(dont know if it should).. well i notices soon as it started to lock up the knock was there.... also notices that my rpms is about 3-500 lower then when it was cold..

May be a bad TC clutch then. A new TC is not that much money. Under $200 easy.
 

ThatShoGuy

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well im gonna try to make another video today.. but while drivin the car around for a few...
 

ThatShoGuy

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well im gonna try to make another video today.. but while drivin the car around for a few...

well i been pretty busy in the last few days.. haven't had the chance to do this....

but..
i wanted to check the trans fluid that has 3-4k on it still looks new,so i guess the trans is at least doing ok....

still gonna work on getting that video... the other day i was drivin along and it was knocking then all of a sudden it stopped????? this time while drivin....:nut::nut::nut::nut::nut::nut::nut:


i really think im gonna invest in a tq converter since it has that shutter while driving in 3rd or OD once the tq converter locks.. when the car is cold the converter dont lock and the car don't shutter, until i notice the convert locking...
 
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loosenut

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Man, I swear that sounds like a broken piece of the ceramic material in one of the cats or pre cats. Mine was broken in such a fashion that it would rattle under idle and low rpm, but go away as the rpms climbed because the exhaust gas would keep it pinned down due to the higher speed. Check it just for sanity sake, what could it hurt.
Good luck.
 

ThatShoGuy

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Man, I swear that sounds like a broken piece of the ceramic material in one of the cats or pre cats. Mine was broken in such a fashion that it would rattle under idle and low rpm, but go away as the rpms climbed because the exhaust gas would keep it pinned down due to the higher speed. Check it just for sanity sake, what could it hurt.
Good luck.

that's the first thing i thought since this is the 3rd motor to these cats???

but when i checked the rod bearings i shook the **** out of the cats.. didn't have a rattle.. maybe once it becomes nice here in Michigan again ill pull the Y pipe again and gut them..
 

Funmart6

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I think you can only gut the third one because the other two have the sensors. Anyway, it is easy to gut the third cat. Get yourself a good strong drill and a 1" diameter wood boring drill bit, remove the two bolts at the flexpipe, remove exhaust from the two hangers that are close to the cat, this will allow you to be able to see inside. Drill away through and around the material inside the cat until you able to reach in and remove the chunks and mesh material. When you have removed most of it, use a shop-vac to clean out the rest. I suggest wearing a dust mask and safety glasses.
 
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