Flickering oil light? new question 8-1-08.

[Adumb]

a diesel engine redlines where our motors start making power, so the two are a little bit different.

 

[93rev2sev]

So I walk back-over with her and the guy that serviced her car immediately gets defensive. "I already checked the drain plug and the oil filter is on there right." Okay - I replied fine and ask that they push the car back out. I check the drain plug and filter, look for leaks, then check the level - all fine.

Anyone want to guess what was wrong?

If the level was fine....dunno.

 

[thecrew2999]

:blah: , first off i use RP in all my cars, always have and do all my own oil changes, 2nd i drive a 18 speed peterbuilt all day long so dont tell me i can shift, sorry i dont want to come flying into my driveway or rev it to 3k to creep over a curb , sometimes it happens, no big deal, rod bearings dont need to be changed because of it

i driven probley 30 different tractors myself... you let the clutch out without touching the throttle to take off... on a gas motor that is a no no..
get some revs up before taking off.

i hope to god you dont float your SHO

lugging the motor does in deed increase engine wear.

ever hear your valves tap like a bitch in a manual car when you damn near stall it?
still wanna say it dont hurt anything?


but i have to disagree with storm chaser... revving the **** out of the engine and all isnt gonna cause as much problems with your engine as lugging it.
i agree beating it does start to take its toll.
but simply look at sdpatts car.. he beats the shit out of it every weekend at the track.. granted he keeps up to par on his car but still hes got 366k miles on a car thats been beat since day 1

 

[twr]

The Low [ OIL ] pressure light illuminates when pressure at the sensor drops below 6 psi, if the Oil Pressure Sender is working correctly.

There is roughly a 7psi increase in oil pressure for every 1000 rpm increase in engine rpm. Conversely, oil pressure decreases as rpm decreases, and most Gen I/II SHOs will display a steady or flickering [ OIL ] light when the rpm drops to 500-to-600 rpm due to simple engine wear.

If you're allowing the rpms to drop below 800rpm while letting the clutch out, that's the problem as TopGunnYFZ indicated above.

A "bad" or weak oil pump is not likely. A malfunctioning Oil Pressure Sender is much more likely.

Do you know what kind of oil they use during the oil change? Using the wrong weight oil (eg. 5W-20) could suddenly cause you to get a Low [ OIL ] pressure light. Conversely, using a heavier weight oil can elevate oil pressure, which will prevent the flickering [ OIL ] light.


I'm going to play the contrarian here.

First, rod bearing damage like that shown in the image posted by 1993MTXSHO does not occur because seeing a flickering Low [ OIL ] pressure light once or even a few times. It is the result of poor maintenance practices - not changing the oil at regular intervals, running low on oil repeatedly or for extended periods, running the wrong weight oil, repeated burnouts and beating-the-shit out the engine, etc.

Rattle does *not* always mean a rod bearing knock. There are a number of other underhood problems that can produce very similar sounding noises, especially to someone that's not familiar with what a rod-knock sounds like. And even if it were a rod bearing knock, I know several SHO owners who have driven their SHO for months, beating the **** out of them before the engine let go. Ask SuperHO and St Louis SHO how long and how hard they drove their 3.0s before they blew.

First, if you're allowing the rpms to drop below idle-level (800 rpm) as you engage the clutch - stop it, use a little more pedal.

Second, put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the engine and see what your oil pressure actually is.

Third, consider changing the Oil Pressure Sender - it's a single-wire sensor, inexpensive, and simple to change.

Fourth, I agree with Troywakeling - change your oil and filter to what ever weight and brand you were using before the last oil change. Also consider going to the next heavier weight in the interim.


Wanna hear a scary story why you should always do your own oil changes?

Several years ago, a female friend came into an O'Reilly's with that look on her face. I asked where her car was, and she said the oil light had come on and the Jiffy **** station told her the motor was bad (even though they had driven it in to service with no light on).

So I walk back-over with her and the guy that serviced her car immediately gets defensive. "I already checked the drain plug and the oil filter is on there right." Okay - I replied fine and ask that they push the car back out. I check the drain plug and filter, look for leaks, then check the level - all fine.

Anyone want to guess what was wrong?

All very good info in this post. My first thought was a bad sending unit or that you are letting the engine rpms drop to much. I always blip the throttle before letting the clutch out to pull away from a stop.

Did they put motor oil in? or something else?

 

[cetroutt]

so tell us what was wrong already.

 

[SuperHO]

Wanna hear a scary story why you should always do your own oil changes?

Several years ago, a female friend came into an O'Reilly's with that look on her face. I asked where her car was, and she said the oil light had come on and the Jiffy **** station told her the motor was bad (even though they had driven it in to service with no light on).

So I walk back-over with her and the guy that serviced her car immediately gets defensive. "I already checked the drain plug and the oil filter is on there right." Okay - I replied fine and ask that they push the car back out. I check the drain plug and filter, look for leaks, then check the level - all fine.

Anyone want to guess what was wrong?

Wrong oil....they pulled a wire out of the pressure sensor....didn't bother cleaning off the dip stick before they dropped the plug...ran the car without oil before realizing they screwed up and shredded a bearing.....


I used to work at an oil change place..I've seen some dumb shit...

 

[SUPERMN]

a diesel engine redlines where our motors start making power, so the two are a little bit different.

a diesel motor pulling 80,000lbs up and down hills and in and out of city traffic is much harder to drive then a 3000lb car with a 5speed no matter what the redline

 

[ManySHOs]

Several years ago, a female friend came into an O'Reilly's with that look on her face. I asked where her car was, and she said the oil light had come on and the Jiffy **** station told her the motor was bad (even though they had driven it in to service with no light on).

So I walk back-over with her and the guy that serviced her car immediately gets defensive. "I already checked the drain plug and the oil filter is on there right." Okay - I replied fine and ask that they push the car back out. I check the drain plug and filter, look for leaks, then check the level - all fine.

Anyone want to guess what was wrong?

It was April Fool's day or opposite day?



I agree with Terry - good info in your post!

Ian

 

[Adumb]

a diesel motor pulling 80,000lbs up and down hills and in and out of city traffic is much harder to drive then a 3000lb car with a 5speed no matter what the redline

yea, i 'spose its not really a question of difficulty, just style, that was my point,

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Sorry, just got online a little while ago . . . .


They didn't have 10W-30, so the tech used 5W-20 instead of calling one of the local parts stores to order a case of the correct weight oil.

I've seen the popped-the-wire-off the sending unit, loose filter, cross-threaded filter, cross-threaded drain plug, but the above one in the heat of summer was a new one . . . .

The following was a classic, "She wanted synthetic. I mean it's still just oil . . . ." (don't forget to throw in alot of southern twang).

 

[Irish Pride]

i'm not bogging the engine down, thats not the problem. i watched myself all afternoon today and the rpms never get below 1500 when i start out in first. i've had a sho with a bad rod bearing and know what it should sound like and the rattle under my car does not sound like that. the rattle does get a little more noticable as i speed up, but it isnt consistant with the rpms of the engine. as i increase the rpms, the rattle does not increase in speed, pitch, or get louder. the only time you really notice it is when i drive next to a wall or building and get an echo. i'm gonna try the sending unit and see if that fixes it.

what weight oil is the best weight for a sho. i havent had this car long. i bought it in hawaii an never drove it. the oil was good when i bought it. i had the oil changed before i had it shipped just to have it done, it didnt need it. i normally do my own oil when i can, but in waikiki your lucky to find a parking spot yet alone a place to change oil.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I don't consider high RPMs, or tracking a car to be "beating the shit out of it" - the engine was designed for high-rpm operation.

Burnouts, speedshifting, Nitrous I would consider falling under "beating the shit out of it".

i driven probley 30 different tractors myself... you let the clutch out without touching the throttle to take off... on a gas motor that is a no no..
get some revs up before taking off.

i hope to god you dont float your SHO

lugging the motor does in deed increase engine wear.

ever hear your valves tap like a bitch in a manual car when you damn near stall it?
still wanna say it dont hurt anything?


but i have to disagree with storm chaser... revving the **** out of the engine and all isnt gonna cause as much problems with your engine as lugging it.
i agree beating it does start to take its toll.
but simply look at sdpatts car.. he beats the shit out of it every weekend at the track.. granted he keeps up to par on his car but still hes got 366k miles on a car thats been beat since day 1

 

[Bizzy]

what kind of cost am i looking at to have the bearings done? this is not a job that i can handle and i would have to pay somebody to do it.

From RCM, 64.99 for all the parts needed to do the job unless you break off one of the exhaust studs. Being where the car came from I don't think you'll have that problem.

Do quit driving the car. Absolutely and without a doubt.

You're in Las Vegas now as I understand. There is bound to be someone in the SHO community over in that area that can help you.

And guys, quit beating him up for not taking this job on. If he doesn't think he's capable of doing it, it's best that he let someone do it for him perhaps while he watches and learns. Better that than getting in over his head and f'ing something up.

 

[Irish Pride]

From RCM, 64.99 for all the parts needed to do the job unless you break off one of the exhaust studs. Being where the car came from I don't think you'll have that problem.

Do quit driving the car. Absolutely and without a doubt.

You're in Las Vegas now as I understand. There is bound to be someone in the SHO community over in that area that can help you.

And guys, quit beating him up for not taking this job on. If he doesn't think he's capable of doing it, it's best that he let someone do it for him perhaps while he watches and learns. Better that than getting in over his head and f'ing something up.

i know i could do the job if i took my time and had the equipment, but i'm not in a position to do so at this time. i just moved back to the states from hawaii. i have ZERO tools with me right now. also, i'm currently living out of an extended stay. its not like i can just go out to the garage and put it up on stands and hop to it. if there is anybody in the las vegas area who could help me out, that would be great.

 

[thecrew2999]

look up rod bearings you will find all the sizes you need.. you could get a cheapo set from lowes or something .. husky is lowes brand and it is lifetime replacement for like $40 or so dollars.
takes roughly 2 hours of work..

also if i was closer id do it but youd have to hear me giving you crap the whole time is all

 

[NebraskaSHO]

If your bearings were never changed, just change them for good measure. I herd no sounds in my 99k mile 93, and ran great, no light at all until i revved in my driveway when i got home and saw a little flicker when the revs dropped back tp idle but then it went away. I Figured ok that wasn't good but its prolly not to bad, so i pulled it apart the next day to change the bearings, and found this, the crank was screwed up and the engine was trash, at 99k miles. This was a meticulously maintained car as well, I mean the engine was so clean you could eat out of it, it had the 60k done at 60k as well, moral of the story, CHANGE YOUR ROD BEARINGS NO MATTER WHAT.

Look like my bearings I just pulled from my running 93. Creepy.

 

[jthod]

I can't believe those wheren't rattling like an aerosol can! I thought the ones in the 93 were bad, I could hardly believe those things, Paul! Or should I say, V6 n00b.

 

[93rev2sev]

They didn't have 10W-30, so the tech used 5W-20 instead of calling one of the local parts stores to order a case of the correct weight oil.

That WAS the right oil...techs see a 24v taurus and assume it's a duratec. Happens all the time.

The guy I sold my car to called me up a week later and asked me why I sold him a car with no oil pressure. He even asked me if I used motor honey when he test drove it...I was just about to have a caniption when I realized he didn't change his own oil...

The tech used 5w20 because he thought it was the right stuff for a 24v ford.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

And that's why ALL manufacturer's place a placard underhood that includes the spark plug type and gap, engine displacement, and recommended oil.

FOR THE IDIOTS THAT SHOULDN'T BE ALLOWED NEAR A VEHICLE, MUCH LESS TO WORK ON THEM . . . .

 

[Storm-Chaser]

No - in this case he knew the engine was suppose to be service with 10W-30 and out of laziness, chose to use a lighter-weight oil.

In my eyes, there's a difference between the tech that uses the wrong-weight oil out of ignorance (didn't know), versus the one that does so out of laziness (doesn't care). The former needs training, the latter needs fired.

That WAS the right oil...techs see a 24v taurus and assume it's a duratec. Happens all the time.

The guy I sold my car to called me up a week later and asked me why I sold him a car with no oil pressure. He even asked me if I used motor honey when he test drove it...I was just about to have a caniption when I realized he didn't change his own oil...

The tech used 5w20 because he thought it was the right stuff for a 24v ford.