A/C Shuts off in stop and go traffic.

[SHOspazz92]

My father has complained that the A/C is acting up in the 95. The A/C itself works wonderfully. Blows really cold, It always have. However, My dad says when he eventually gets in to stop and go traffic the A/C will just shut off and come back on whenever it wants. The EATC is working fine, It's just the A/C. Any ideas?

-Sam

 

[K-Dawg]

Clutch air gap?

 

[projectSHO89]

Clutch air gap?

Most likely.

Perform a shimectomy.

Steve

 

[rubydist]

The other possibility is that the fans are not pulling enough air across the condensor, which causes the gas to overheat and the pressures to get too high, and then it shuts off until it cools off enough to allow the clutch to kick in again. Usually, but not always, this can be seen on the temp gauge, since the engine coolant system is being taxed as well in that situation.

 

[SHOspazz92]

The other possibility is that the fans are not pulling enough air across the condensor, which causes the gas to overheat and the pressures to get too high, and then it shuts off until it cools off enough to allow the clutch to kick in again. Usually, but not always, this can be seen on the temp gauge, since the engine coolant system is being taxed as well in that situation.

Car's temp is A-Ok.

-Sam

 

[whiteguy3]

I had the same issue. It did that off and on for a while. Finally, one day when it was 90 degrees on my way to VA beach it cut off completely...never came back on. Your issue is most likely the a/c compressor clutch. Most of the time, the compressor itself is fine. The clutch can be changed out. I just found it easier to buy a used compressor and check the gap on the clutch. The clutch itself begins to separate slightly from the compressor and does not contact to engage the compressor inside.

Changing the compressor took about 3 hours total. Make sure that if you end up checking the clutch gap, that inside the clutch has not sheared, meaning that the rubber inside is shot. My clutch was barely hanging on for dear life and making noise before I changed it.

 

[SHOspazz92]

I had the same issue. It did that off and on for a while. Finally, one day when it was 90 degrees on my way to VA beach it cut off completely...never came back on. Your issue is most likely the a/c compressor clutch. Most of the time, the compressor itself is fine. The clutch can be changed out. I just found it easier to buy a used compressor and check the gap on the clutch. The clutch itself begins to separate slightly from the compressor and does not contact to engage the compressor inside.

Changing the compressor took about 3 hours total. Make sure that if you end up checking the clutch gap, that inside the clutch has not sheared, meaning that the rubber inside is shot. My clutch was barely hanging on for dear life and making noise before I changed it.

Will catching it early like this help at all without having to actually replace the compressor?

-Sam

 

[K-Dawg]

Compressor is probably fine. I'm not sure what you are asking. The problem is most likely in the compressor clutch, which can be replaced separately.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Compressor is probably fine. I'm not sure what you are asking. The problem is most likely in the compressor clutch, which can be replaced separately.

Sorry for being so Vauge. My understand if A/C systems is... Well, none. What am asking is since the gapping on the A/C clutch is out of spec can it possibly be regapped? Or when this happens does the clutch itself need to be replaced. Or, Am I thinking of this all wrong, And when there is a "Air gap" in the clutch it's not somthing that can be adjusted and the clutch itself has to be replaced?

*Edit*

Another question I have to better my understanding of this situation:

What would cause this to happen only during stop and go traffic? My father said when He's on the freeway it works perfectly fine and does not shut off ever, Just when when gets off and hits the city streets is when it starts doing it. Ideas?

Thank you very much!

-Sam

 

[K-Dawg]

There should be several threads on here about adjusting the air gap. There are a couple shims (washers) that can be removed as needed to get the gap down to where it needs to be. I believe there is also a thing on SHOTimes about it. The clutch doesn't need replaced unless something else is wrong with it.

 

[jbeano]

Removing the shims will probably fix the problem. Also the clutch may be worn down enough that the shim fix won't work. In my case I had to replace the clutch.

 

[whiteguy3]

Well, like others stated the compressor is most likely fine. Taking out the compressor itself would be the easiest way. I know it takes a lot more time than just removing the clutch. But, you can check over the compressor at that time and check the clearance.

A good test is to watch the compressor while the car is running. After a while, if the clutch has gotten so bad it will start to make a loud noise, like scraping and rubbing even when the a/c is off. So, you could look forward to that if this is not handled in time. There is only one possibility that would cause the a/c to come, off/on periodically===the a/c compressor clutch. A leak would affect the degree of the a/c or it will just slowly leak out until there is none left, not come off and on.

 

[naval-avi8or]

When symptom is present tap (carefully with your choice of tool) the front of the AC clutch plate if the compressor engages then re gap the air gap of the clutch. This can be done without removing anything except the clutch plate.

The only thing this will cost you is time, so its worth a shot. Results could be up to several more years of operation.

 

[TYSHO]

I had a broke tab on the connector for the compressor coil, resulting in the same symptoms your dad is having. The stop and go traffic meant the engine was moving around more, wiggling the connector to an on and off position. The a/c would stay on during highway use until I burried the pedal, then I'd pull over and put the connector back on [as that would yank it out] just to find out that I'd repeat the process again.

 

[projectSHO89]

I had a broke tab on the connector for the compressor coil, resulting in the same symptoms your dad is having. The stop and go traffic meant the engine was moving around more, wiggling the connector to an on and off position. The a/c would stay on during highway use until I burried the pedal, then I'd pull over and put the connector back on [as that would yank it out] just to find out that I'd repeat the process again.

Ironically, my 94 ATX had that problem. I repaired it quite a few years ago when it was still owned by the previous owner.

The zip-ties I used are still there and keeping the plug connected. It's now probably 5 or 6 years now....

Steve

 

[K-Dawg]

Ironically, my 94 ATX had that problem. I repaired it quite a few years ago when it was still owned by the previous owner.

The zip-ties I used are still there and keeping the plug connected. It's now probably 5 or 6 years now....

Steve

My 94 ATX did the same thing 5 years ago.

 

[TYSHO]

Ironically, my 94 ATX had that problem. I repaired it quite a few years ago when it was still owned by the previous owner.

The zip-ties I used are still there and keeping the plug connected. It's now probably 5 or 6 years now....

Steve

Great info! I went about fixing the problem the same way with similar results.

 

[green machine]

A/C clutch replacement

Can the clutch be replaced without discharging the system? I haven't checked the manual yet. I have this same problem and since its getting warm figured I needed to fix it now.

 

[projectSHO89]

Can the clutch be replaced without discharging the system? I haven't checked the manual yet. I have this same problem and since its getting warm figured I needed to fix it now.

Yes, it can.

 

[DieselDan]

If you are going to check on the clutch, this is how I would do it. Remove the battery, remove the alternator and the Compressor is right there. Before you remove the alternator however, you can check the air gap just to get an idea if it is in or out of spec. I don't know the airgap off hand, but with the battery out of the way you can look straight down at the compressor and shove a feeler gauge in there.

If you need to make the gap smaller, you can remove the shim under the clutch. You will need to remove the nut that holds the the clutch on, it is right hand thread, so no worries there. You will then probably either have the clutch fall right off, or you will have to walk it off with 2 screw drivers. Once the clutch is off you will see a small shim in there, just looks like a small flat washer.

None of this involves evacing the A/C system. The hardest part imo is removing the alt. Hope this helps.