Big time car trouble

[bertman7807]

Hello everyone. I have a 2010 SHO that has been flawless until today. I went out to start it and it ran a little rough and died. It did this several times. I got a wrench and oil symbol on the dash. I put my code reader on it and noted the codes and cleared them. The car started normally afterwards. I drove it to town and it was perfect. When I went to restart it the motor would turn over but not crank. I reset the codes again and it started right up. Brought it home flawlessly and now I get the same stall and oil light issue. Sometimes it only turns over but no start. Clearing the codes made no difference this time. I noticed a smell of maybe partially burnt fuel. It smelled almost gunpowder like. I really could use some guidance and suggestions. I did check the oil level. I will list the codes. Thank you for any thoughts and help on this.

P0193, P0642, P0420, P0532, P2227

 

[Texas Marauder]

Did you get the same codes every time? P0420 usually takes a while to set after clearing codes. Possibly a damaged wiring harness. Check for any place the engine harness may have shorted to ground.

 

[bertman7807]

I can verify the P0420. I had my turbos replaced a month ago. Oil contamination. I intend to replace the cats. I dont believe it is related to my issue. It shows as a permanent code and wouldnt clear.

 

[bertman7807]

Just an update in case this thread is of any use to anyone. New Map sensor and turbo boost sensor solved my problem. As an aside, they both look nearly identical and the plugs even work. I installed the turbo sensor in the Map spot by mistake. That was a definite no-no. I appreciate all the help on here

 

[SHOdded]

Just an update in case this thread is of any use to anyone. New Map sensor and turbo boost sensor solved my problem. As an aside, they both look nearly identical and the plugs even work. I installed the turbo sensor in the Map spot by mistake. That was a definite no-no. I appreciate all the help on here

they are both MAP sensors just referred to differently. iirc the difference is 2 bar vs 3 bar oem.

 

[bertman7807]

they are both MAP sensors just referred to differently. iirc the difference is 2 bar vs 3 bar oem.

That makes sense. I should add that my first test drive was horrible. No boost at all. I was sick. I happened to think to clear my engine codes and that brought it back. All in all it was a weird experience. For both sensors to fail at the same time seems unlikely to me. But 300 bucks got me back on the road so I shall not fuss much.

 

[SHOdded]

@bertman7807 amen to simple fixes.