So what did you do to your SHO today!?
- Thread starter LongNap
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
TheOGScooby
Member
Drained and Filled the transmission today since we abused it a bit last night. Had me second guessing myself while tightening up on the drainplug. Going to drive around a little bit then double check to make sure she isn't leaking. Gonna scrub off last night's war paint in a little bit. Once I get home going to check the intercooler for oil blowback and suck out if needed. Tbh I've found the amount of maitenance this girl needs to be enjoyable haha.
Attachments
Going to update the Sync3 navigation maps and Sync3 OS
Bluezone
Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
Tried different Tunes out on my car. Making progress slowly.
Updated by CyanLabs to 3.4 latest maps and OS - Donated to them for their utility and ease of use.
Last edited:
AzSHOluv
New Member
So I decided to tinting my lenses but slightly different. I used a product we use in the sign business that makes acrylic faces look black during the day but light white (or whatever color light you use behind it) at night. I even but it on the led light in the front bumber!
Attachments
I really like the front lights, if that product is available let us know the name. Very Cool
AzSHOluv
New Member
Oh yeah sorry I should have mentioned that. It's 3M Dual-color black 3635-222
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Replaced rear shocks today. 126k miles on them. Drivers side rear shock was done, tire would bounce. So the rear tire has a ton of flat spots on it. That shock just fell out when i unbolted it. I shoved it shut and it stayed closed so yea that one was shot. Passenger side still felt like a working shock. I had to unbolt it and give it the old kick. Was easy to replace with the upper bolt mounts an 18mm and 8mm to hold the stud. And a 15mm and 17mm to remove the link that was in the way of the bottom shock bolt. And the shock bolt was an 18mm.
Factory non pp shocks, replaced with Motorcraft Pp shocks. I left the h&r springs on and ill see how it feels when i replace the fronts when i get them.
Rockauto didnt even send me a magnet, i hate when they do that. But i have front rotors and pads along with front shocks coming so hopefully i get some magnets.
Hard to see but the tire has a ton of flat spots on the right. Was the inside of the tire, shock has rub marks. I had the rear cambered last year and had it adjusted back to normal last year so idk if its from that or the shock being blown. Other side rear tire was fine and it also had the same camber adjustment at one time. 2019-2022 with rears cambered to help in autocross. Still 125k miles is 60k miles to long on shocks. Most shocks are only built for 60k miles.
Ill do front shocks next weekend along with front brakes.
Factory non pp shocks, replaced with Motorcraft Pp shocks. I left the h&r springs on and ill see how it feels when i replace the fronts when i get them.
Rockauto didnt even send me a magnet, i hate when they do that. But i have front rotors and pads along with front shocks coming so hopefully i get some magnets.
Hard to see but the tire has a ton of flat spots on the right. Was the inside of the tire, shock has rub marks. I had the rear cambered last year and had it adjusted back to normal last year so idk if its from that or the shock being blown. Other side rear tire was fine and it also had the same camber adjustment at one time. 2019-2022 with rears cambered to help in autocross. Still 125k miles is 60k miles to long on shocks. Most shocks are only built for 60k miles.
Ill do front shocks next weekend along with front brakes.
@yaycandy that shock is fcked, and I would have to be blind not to see the tire damage. I am still trying to decide to do coilovers, or buy H&R with my PP struts and replace my rear shocks with the H&R springs.
You look like you have your work cut out for you still.
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
You look like you have your work cut out for you still.
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Ive been in a sho with the Megan Racing coilovers. They feel more stiff than the h&r springs. My friend actually switched to h&r springs shortly after. The h&r springs feel firm with pp shocks but are pogo sticks with the non pp shocks. If your not tracking it with turns all the time. Just go with pp shocks, h&r springs and a rear sway bar upgrade. Its the best it can handle while still feeling nice on crappy roads. I live close to Pocono and take the car their often and in my sho club that races with me those h&rs perform amazingly on an actual track with the weight of the car. I just cant wait to have my front shocks on and new brakes and then ill be at trackday again soon.
2 questioms? So if I get the work done, replace the cartridges in the front struts? I don't see the front strut shock cartridge, am I missing it? Also what sway bar upgrade? I am going to continue looking. Thanks for the suggestions, I have read others posts about the non PP + HR pogo issues. Though I assume people were picking the correct HR springs, but that another whole question unrelated to my upcoming decision.
Thanks @yaycandy
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
HR springs are only made for the pp shocks last i checked. They work on non pp shocks just are a little bouncy. More firm on the pp. Just buy new motorcraft front shock struts.
BFR99Z Rear Sway bar - 24mm heavy duty blade adjustable
Engineered to 'Activate More Grip', sway bars are principally designed to reduce body roll or sway. By reducing body roll, lateral loads are spread more evenly across the tires thereby increasing cornering grip and improving outright performance. This Whiteline sway bar = more grip = better...
whitelineperformance.com
What about the sway, I am deep in our forum - someone talking about Addco but was a special order. If you know the name of the com0qny I will look for it. Thanks
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
Thank you!
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
If you have a non pp. you can install pp shocks and hr springs and then factory pp front sway bar along with upgraded rear. Sway bars on non pp are designed for the softer suspension and springs of a non pp.
Thanks - have the PP. Much appreciated!
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
TheOGScooby
Member
Pulled the trigger and ordered the tuner, plugs, thermostat, and 3Bar sensor off of GH Tuning. Got the PPE downpipes and corsa catback exhaust on my list bit being as my brake pads are starting to get low, looking at upgrading the brakes before those. Any suggestions for a non-pp? I think one of my rotors may be warped so looking to do pads and rotors. Part of me was looking at Wilwoods 6 piston caliper kit as well. Decisions, decisions....
Joshw0000
SHO Member
For cheap, it's hard to beat the Z3 Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors. I didn't see a huge improvement but they look cool and my factory rotors were warped. For good brakes, the Yellow Stuff will stop pretty well but be prepared to clean brake dust every single week (maybe twice a week) and they'll wear out pretty quick.
I like to use the saying an old man once told me. Either go first class or 3rd class, but never 2nd class. To me the Z3 rotors are 3rd class (as good or better than stock and cheap enough). The Yellow Stuff pads fall around 2nd class. Unless I end up doing a big brake upgrade I'm just going to stick with OEM type pads for my car.
Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
Similar threads
