Oil Weight

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Ryan Selcer

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You haven't explained anything. You say run a thinner oil in the cold. I say run the recommended weight in the cold. I showed an article pertaining to the 3.5 saying even in cold weather use the recommended weight. I asked for you provide literature from Ford saying use a thinner oil in the cold. You cannot provide it.

If you use a thinner oil, it reduces the film strength. That can cause increased wear, because the oil vacates the surface faster. Hence why you don't use WD40 for engine oil.

I got it, you clearly don't.
because in the winter In colorado when the temp is below 0 for a week or two at a time the oil thickens up so your essentially using 5w30 if you use 5w20

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
 
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High on Ethanol

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I member back in the day buying whatever oil was on sale and then slamming in random gas station quarts as needed. Nothing bad happened but id say it was pure luck.
Pepperidge Farms remembers.
 

Zpak

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High on Ethanol

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There's three things I learned about the SHO community.

1:They will spend money on anything for their car whether it does anything or not, even if it hurts it.
2: There will be drama and fighting
3: they will absolutely hack up their car even if its expensive and hurts performance, safety, mpg,and reliability.
4: there will absolutely be drama and fighting.
 

Ryan Selcer

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except you did.... twice now.
if you use 5w30 and don't have a block heater and the temp gets too low you will have problems. So I use 5w20 when it gets real cold to avoid said problems.

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
 

Michigan-SHO

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Okay, I'm pretty sure I've seen this question asked, but I can't find it.

My question is....the owners manual says 5w-20 motor oil, the oil cap says 5w-30 motor oil. WHICH IS IT!?

I'm GUESSING the lighter one, but what does everyone here use?

Please note that I'm not trying to start a war with which weight or brand is better....I really just want to know which weight Ford meant for us to use in the TT engine?

TIA,
S

I would highly recommend whatever is stated on your cap. I would also recommend using a quality brand you trust. Furthermore, I suggest oil changes at manufacturer recommended intervals or sooner, depending on driving habits and overall conditions.

Synthetic oil is also a good choice.


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stripSHO

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Yeah I'd recommend run it a bit thicker in the winter.
I'm not a linguistics major, but I'm pretty sure this is you saying to run thicker oil in the winter?:shrug:

I live in CO so in the winter it gets real cold and 5w-30 gets real thick so I use 5w-20 in the winter,

The -30 and -20 markings refer to viscosity at 212° and switching these ratings do nothing for you with a cold engine. The 5W (w is for "winter") refers to low temp performance at 0°. So for a meaningful change in extreme cold you'd swap to 0W-30, not 5W-20. By proclaiming your car starts and runs just fine with 5W-20 you're pretty much invalidating your own argument. Am I missing something? Geniunely inquiring
 

Zpak

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The -30 and -20 markings refer to viscosity at 212° and switching these ratings do nothing for you with a cold engine. The 5W (w is for "winter") refers to low temp performance at 0°. So for a meaningful change in extreme cold you'd swap to 0W-30, not 5W-20
Thank you. I was just too lazy to type all that.
 

Ryan Selcer

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I'm not a linguistics major, but I'm pretty sure this is you saying to run thicker oil in the winter?:shrug:



The -30 and -20 markings refer to viscosity at 212° and switching these ratings do nothing for you with a cold engine. The 5W (w is for "winter") refers to low temp performance at 0°. So for a meaningful change in extreme cold you'd swap to 0W-30, not 5W-20. By proclaiming your car starts and runs just fine with 5W-20 you're pretty much invalidating your own argument. Am I missing something? Geniunely inquiring
Sorry I switched the wrong number. The point still stands, thinner oil in extreme winters.

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
 

4sfed

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Ok... So what I'm taking away from this is...

-Using the same manual for 10 years, and only switching out the fill cap, saves Ford money.

I'll use 5w-30. Thanks everyone.

BTW.....I noticed you (sm105k) recusing yourself in that conversation. Aaah....Mod life. Hey! That should be a bummer sticker!!!! :D

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Ryan Selcer

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I'm not a linguistics major, but I'm pretty sure this is you saying to run thicker oil in the winter?:shrug:



The -30 and -20 markings refer to viscosity at 212° and switching these ratings do nothing for you with a cold engine. The 5W (w is for "winter") refers to low temp performance at 0°. So for a meaningful change in extreme cold you'd swap to 0W-30, not 5W-20. By proclaiming your car starts and runs just fine with 5W-20 you're pretty much invalidating your own argument. Am I missing something? Geniunely inquiring
Also your not exactly right. The weight is how long it takes to warm up, not how it acts when its cold.....

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
 

Ryan Selcer

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Ok... So what I'm taking away from this is...

-Using the same manual for 10 years, and only switching out the fill cap, saves Ford money.

I'll use 5w-30. Thanks everyone.

BTW.....I noticed you (sm105k) recusing yourself in that conversation. Aaah....Mod life. Hey! That should be a bummer sticker!!!!

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Stan yes stick to the cap, however if you have a few weeks in which the temperatures stay below 15 degrees a thinner oil will help out. That was my whole point. Yes I sort of reccused but if you read it I constantly said thinner oil and that other dude kept talking about thicker for some reason and got me confused for a few comments

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
 

stripSHO

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Also your not exactly right. The weight is how long it takes to warm up, not how it acts when its cold.....

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
No actually I'm exactly right. Starting with the source shared by Kevin which received your commendation:

The oil’s “W” viscosity describes its characteristics when it’s cold. The second number (e.g. the “30” in “5W-30”) describes the oil’s characteristics once your engine reaches normal operating temperature, or 100ºC (212ºF).
https://blog.amsoil.com/should-i-switch-to-a-lighter-viscosity-oil-in-winter/

For single winter grade oils, the dynamic viscosity is measured at different cold temperatures, specified in J300 depending on the viscosity grade, in units of mPa·s, or the equivalent older non-SI units, centipoise (abbreviated cP), using two different test methods. They are the cold-cranking simulator (ASTM D5293) and the mini-rotary viscometer (ASTM D4684). Based on the coldest temperature the oil passes at, that oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The lower the viscosity grade, the lower the temperature the oil can pass.

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two viscosity grades; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number '10W' is the equivalent grade of the single grade oil that has the oil's viscosity at cold temperature and the second number is the grade of the equivalent single-grade oil that describes its viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Viscosity means a fluid's resistance to flow. In motor oil, it's rated at zero degrees Fahrenheit (represented by the number preceding the "W" [for winter]) and at 212 degrees (represented by the second number in the viscosity designation).
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a53/what-oil-does-my-car-take/

The "w" in motor oil stands for winter. The first number in the oil classification refers to a cold weather viscosity.
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/oil-types-weights-and-viscosity-faq

The “w” stands for winter and indicates that the lubricant in question has a different viscosity, or different flow characteristics, based on temperature.
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/understanding-oil-weight-numbers-bottle-mean/

The first number in the oil weight represents the oil's viscosity at 0 degrees F. The lower the first number in an oil's weight, the thinner it is at low temperatures.
https://itstillruns.com/explain-motor-oil-weights-6008198.html

Need more? I'm sure I can probably dig up at least a thousand of these...
 

SM105K

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I'm not a linguistics major, but I'm pretty sure this is you saying to run thicker oil in the winter?:shrug:



The -30 and -20 markings refer to viscosity at 212° and switching these ratings do nothing for you with a cold engine. The 5W (w is for "winter") refers to low temp performance at 0°. So for a meaningful change in extreme cold you'd swap to 0W-30, not 5W-20. By proclaiming your car starts and runs just fine with 5W-20 you're pretty much invalidating your own argument. Am I missing something? Geniunely inquiring

He has the temper, but I am the stupid one?

Lol.

@stripSHO how is dog training?
 

Ryan Selcer

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No actually I'm exactly right. Starting with the source shared by Kevin which received your commendation:













Need more? I'm sure I can probably dig up at least a thousand of these...
Ooo you can quote Wikipedia and sales catalogues, congrats.

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
 

802SHO

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Ooo you can quote Wikipedia and sales catalogues, congrats.

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims
Youre not the only one with a temper. No one is going to agree with everything you say....and what you're trying to say gets lost real fast when you act this way. Everyone here is trying to help each other and everyone gets their balls busted if they deserve it...for the most part.

For the record though you would want to run a 0w oil in winter for better cold weather start up if you think you need it. (Edit I don't drive the SHO in winter. So for Summer use...) I changed from 5w20 to 5w30 after results of oil analysis performed by Blackstone Laboratories. It appeared I could use something a little stronger, as suggested by @SHOdded who is extremely knowledgeable, way more so than I am.
 
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