New engine swap, what else should I have done at 100K?

[ShoMe1More]

I am swapping an engine out of my '13 PP interceptor.
It currently has 100K on the chassis.
The new engine going in has 11K.

What are some additional part swaps, or services that are:
1) Necessary to be done
2) Nice to be done because the engine will be out

Also, should I hang on to the turbos from the old engine and sell the rest of the engine as-is on eBay?

 

[luigisho]

Are you going to rebuild them? You might have better luck selling the engine as a whole assembly or as parts. Did the engine fail? What's wrong with it? You may want to rebuild it down the road.

What year & vehicle is the new engine from?

 

[SHOdded]

Where is the new engine coming from? MY and model of vehicle.

Such low mileage ... aside from fluids, nothing really. Maybe check the plugs/renew. Valve cover/PCV valve/oil separator is easier to get to.

Retain old turbos I think until new verified. Can always have cores to rebuild If new engine comes with full complement of oil, draw a sample for analysis before changing it out.

 

[ShoMe1More]

Are you going to rebuild them? You might have better luck selling the engine as a whole assembly or as parts. Did the engine fail? What's wrong with it? You may want to rebuild it down the road.

What year & vehicle is the new engine from?

I will not be rebuilding the old engine. Just looking to sell it as-is.

The new engine is from a '13 SHO

 

[ShoMe1More]

Where is the new engine coming from? MY and model of vehicle.

Such low mileage ... aside from fluids, nothing really. Maybe check the plugs/renew. Valve cover/PCV valve/oil separator is easier to get to.

Retain old turbos I think until new verified. Can always have cores to rebuild If new engine comes with full complement of oil, draw a sample for analysis before changing it out.

New engine is a salvage '13 SHO.

The engine did not have oil in it for the past year, the salvage yard just had it shelved after taking it out of the car. Ran fine before they removed it. Will the neoprene gaskets dry out on a newer vehicle like this?

 

[SHOdded]

Hard to say. I think not, but i would hand crank a few times after filling w coolant and oil to make sure all passages are lubricated, before powercranking. If you feel tightness during hand cranking, there may be rust inside the engine. In which case I would pull all fuel fuses/relays and simply crank the engine a bit like doing a compression test. Then drain the oil and coolant, check condition. If they look good, fill, replace the fuses/relays, and try a normal crank/start cycle. If they dont, then another drain/fill cycle assuming very fine debris, no chunks. After that, should be fine. Change the oil filter each time you drain as well. Maybe I am too OCD with this, but I would want this tranplant to take

 

[ShoMe1More]

What are the 'wear parts' around the engine that would be must have replacements?

Considering the 100k chassis I'm using was a police cruiser with high idle hours almost doubling the drivetime, are we talking:
Water pump
Timing chain
Belts
Etc?

Is it easiest to flush the PTU with the engine out?

 

[Scott Milligan]

What are the 'wear parts' around the engine that would be must have replacements?

Considering the 100k chassis I'm using was a police cruiser with high idle hours almost doubling the drivetime, are we talking:
Water pump
Timing chain
Belts
Etc?

Is it easiest to flush the PTU with the engine out?

I just put a 14 engine in my 11 sho. I learned A few things. I would replace the seals on the turbos. I didnt and 2 leaked. Front isnt bad but the back is tough in the car. The seals are cheap. PTU oil change is easier with subframe dropped for sure. The AC compressor and alternator are easy to swap with engine out so if they are questionable you may consider them. The auto parts store cant test these alternators by the way. They told me.mine was bad and I later found out there testers dont work on these smart charging systems.

Put the sub frame on wheel dolly's if you can. It's much easier to align when dropping car on it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[ShoMe1More]

Spoke with the shop. Here is a list of additionals I am going to have done with the new engine only having 11k on it:
They will eyeball the gaskets to see if it would be good to swap now
Radiator hoses (Silicone or not?)
Water pump
Belts (What all do we have on these vehicles?)
PTU Flush (Best fluid to use?)

 

[Lostneye]

PTU Flush (Best fluid to use?)

Quality synthetic for sure, I would use Redline shockproof.

 

[SHOdded]

Just a serpentine belt, runs the ac compressor and alternator /generator. Motorcraft is highly preferred. Check tensioner while replacing belt.