914-SHO Project Thread

[Shovert]

I looked in my Chilton on MAF testing nothing. I did find this on line. Maybe some helps. Maurice
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_maf/maf_sensor_ford_1.php
Refer to your wiring diagram to make sure. Off road SHO good idea. I would check them all the way back to computer connection in case of wiring goof. Use care if using test probe in computer side of 60pin connector. You can actually spead the connection and wide up with a loose connection. I would unplug computer [prevent reading thru computer] and use the wiring side of connector. Maurice

 

[3d914]

I noticed that the MAF tests involve having the engine running. Should I do this knowing that the PCM is stuck in limp-home mode? (see post #211)

Or maybe I should save the PCM test for last?

I'm not worried about hurting the PCM - just about damaging something else.

 

[Shovert]

I am looking at the 3.0 wiring diagram [If remember one you are using] The red wire to MAF should be 12vdc key on. Looks like comes from the eec power relay in the IRCM. I know you don't have this and using relays. Looks like it is yellow wire that feeds the IRCM. Now I would think could unplug the computer and key one see if got 12 vdc there and make sure have ground to the proper wire. Engine don't need to run for that.
Looks like blk-lt grn is ground.
Maybe is not problem this red also feeds injectors and yours run. Maybe broken wire, miswire or check ground. Maybe Offroadsho has extra maf?? My best ideas so far. Maurice

 

[3d914]

I'm not completely done, but all my checks on the wiring so far are coming out fine. I'll be testing the sensors themselves this weekend & I do have to replace the 4-wire O2 sensors for 3-wire, so when they come in it'll be time for another test run.

I also have a D-type ICRM (CCRM) coming that I will try out if I continue to get errors. Also gonna try a direct reset of the JX2 PCM that appears to be frozen. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

[Off Road SHO]

I also have a D-type ICRM (CCRM) coming that I will try out if I continue to get errors.

They're on their way there. Should be there on Saturday.

Tom

 

[3d914]

Some good news today. I installed the 3-wire O2 sensors and worked on the MAF sensor today. The MAF was cleaned and passed the various tests, so I'm concluding its OK.

There were some good signs that the JX2 PCM is fine. The startup sequence was correct.

1. Key on - CEL light & Low Fan comes on
2. Key on - FP spins up
3. Key start - CEL light, low fan & Batt goes out
4. Run - Oil light goes out
5. Run - CEL come back on after a short time

I was able to check codes and the sequence looked correct.

1. Key on - CEL light & goes off
2. On - Relay cycles on & off
3. On - Low Fan cycles on & off
4. On - Two single CEL blinks
5. On - starts cycle of CEL Codes
6. On - one final CEL blink

So this may be good news for rbruso also, as he should retry his PCM also.

Motor still running poorly - very rich - due to pressure regulator. So I'll be looking for a replacement or aftermarket. Any ideas about what works?

 

[3d914]

After reviewing with Tom, decided to stay with the stock pressure regulator. Will get that ordered next week.

Started looking into wiring of grounds to verify that PCM grounds are correct - especially since I can't seem to clear the PCM. Also wanted to get the ICRM/CCRM connector ready to test that as well. Guess what - the one I have isn't for either 3.0 or 3.2 according to the EVTM. EVTM says the connector is missing pins 9 - 11 and 19 - 20 for 3.2 or 3.0.

The one I have, which was connected to the 3.0L component harness I'm using, is missing pins; 6, 7, 9, 17, 19-20 - WTF?

I knew I should never have taken this on without buying the whole fricken car. Piecing this shit together is the biggest PITA.

 

[3d914]

Slow progress. Been chasing wiring issues for most of the last two weeks. Got some of the running/code issues addressed, still chasing the other two:

• 51 - ECT (signal too high) - Bad sensor, new one on order
• 65 - Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Wrong sensors, replaced 4-wire with 3-wire to match J2X PCM.

Located and ordered a FP Regulator. Took off the intake to remove the bad one. Took all of five minutes to get the intake off - this is why I decided to do all the testing on a stand. Soooo much easier.

Looks kinda cool even without the intake.

 

[Off Road SHO]

A polished fuel rail! Wonder how that happened?

Tom

 

[hawkeye18]

Looks like you just gave up your fuel rail to Tom.

 

[3d914]

Looks like you just gave up your fuel rail to Tom.

Nah, he showed me how to do it. Said I needed to have at least some "bling" since I wasn't going with all-polished like his. :sun:

 

[3d914]

Well, got around to doing test run #2. Unfortunately the results were the same. Even with the new FP regulator it still seemed to be flooding. Beginning to think the entire fuel system needs to be pressurized. I'm doing my test with an open can with fuel supply and return hoses into it.

Also got the same PCM codes as last time. I did get another code (81) earlier, but it has cleared since. Looks like I'll be wiring up a stock "D" ICRM/CCRM and trying that. Keep ya posted.

 

[Shovert]

EDIT; Done a search.Found your thread on fuel pump. I assume bosch. Phoenix said over 155lph differant regulator would be need. Now this has nothing to do with psi. It is the volume of the pump. What is spec of that pump? Maybe putting out more gas [not psi] than regulator can handle. Especially with short lines like on your stand. If not can read what I typed the first time. Maurice
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=122737&highlight=fuel+pump
I think mentioned this already. [forgive me if I have just like to be sure] Fuel lines correct direction Fuel goes into the Pulsation damper [one without vac line] then goes to fuel rail then to fuel pressure regulator [one with vac line] then return line. Second what is rating of your pump. Maybe too high pressure for this to work. Maybe flowing more than regulator can handle wide open. [extreme care!!! Turn on pump, motor not running, raise return line out of tank and see if have flow or not.]
On your setup should be ok. I would not have return into the fuel in tank. There is a small duckbill valve on end of return line. [I assume SHO and Mustang same.] Maurice
I done search found picture. [first one found on net search] Notice the little red duckbill.
http://www.acpartshouse.com/SQLCart/Images/Large/123296.jpg

 

[3d914]

Maurice, thanks for the feedback. Not a 155lph pump. Only 121lph. We seemed to think the stock regulator should handle this.

Walbro Part Number: GCL601
Minimum Current: 12 Volts
Operating Pressure: 45 PSI
Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 32 GPH (121 LPH) High Pressure

Verified flow out return line. I don't have the duck bill you show - just open hose. Does the entire fuel system needs to be pressurized?

 

[intimdatr]

The stock regulator can take that flow rate. I believe the stock one can take all the way up to 155 before its a guaranteed fail.

As long as the flow is in the correct direction (and the car wont run if it isnt...) i dont think that rubber nossel will impact running conditions. It however might allow for pressure to bleed off faster and make you have to prime the fuel system when trying to restart.

 

[Shovert]

Well that ended my ideas. Maurice

 

[luigisho]

What's the difference between high pressure in-line pumps and in tank pumps rated at the same lph rate? Will there be higher pressure at the regulator or will it be the same?

 

[3d914]

What's the difference between high pressure in-line pumps and in tank pumps rated at the same lph rate? Will there be higher pressure at the regulator or will it be the same?

Should be the same if using same filter. The manual doesn't indicate anything else in the supply line to contend with. It also doesn't indicate whether the system is pressurized at the tank.

 

[llamaking122]

have you checked to see if the pressure drops after turning off the engine? it could be a leaky injector

 

[3d914]

have you checked to see if the pressure drops after turning off the engine? it could be a leaky injector

Not yet, I have to get this stupid little adapter to connect my pressure gauge to the SHO's schrader valve. Can't seem to find them except online - which means another week waiting for parts. :banghd:

Has anyone done an injector squirt test? I've done these on the stock 914 motor, but it doesn't have the massive intake with all the sensors blocking the injectors. The test looks like this:

1. Remove intake manifold
2. Detach fuel rail with injectors still attached
3. Set small jars under each injector to catch fuel
4. Disconnect the Coil's connector
5. Use the start switch to pulse injectors numerous times
6. Observe the behavior of injectors
7. Compare the fuel output results for each injector
8. Clean or correct any faulty injectors

Will the PCM even cycle injectors properly with intake & numerous connections missing?