Got rid of ABS, but wrong...

[Art5]

HI all.
Got abs pump and computer out of the car, since it never work , because someone cut one sensor from the harness, then I damaged few more sensors while changing struts, and finally few lines rotted out.

So, I T-ed each output on Master cylinder and bypassed the whole ABS stuff directly to wheels.
Not working right!!!
First brake-front left wheel locks up. Second brake-left rear locks up first, then front left. Sometimes both rears first then left front.
I have GTP control arms on the car and , I think, bias plugs. Car is "95 with gen3 front brakes and stock rears.

I was thinking if I HAVE to swap out master cylinder, if I do, do I have to get a different booster too, or what can you guys suggest?
Thank you again.

 

[kevinspann]

Sounds like you have completely unengineered your braking system. I'd start by taking out the bias plugs...

 

[Art5]

Taking them tham out, and leaving nothing in?

 

[pitaSHO]

Re-install the bias valve. Then re-install the ABS computer. Re-install all four ABS sensors. Re-plumb the lines back to stock. Re-install the ABS pump. Problem solved.

Chris K.

 

[Bill Strobel]

HI all.
Got abs pump and computer out of the car, since it never work , because someone cut one sensor from the harness, then I damaged few more sensors while changing struts, and finally few lines rotted out.

So, I T-ed each output on Master cylinder and bypassed the whole ABS stuff directly to wheels.
Not working right!!!
First brake-front left wheel locks up. Second brake-left rear locks up first, then front left. Sometimes both rears first then left front.
I have GTP control arms on the car and , I think, bias plugs. Car is "95 with gen3 front brakes and stock rears.

I was thinking if I HAVE to swap out master cylinder, if I do, do I have to get a different booster too, or what can you guys suggest?
Thank you again.

Engineering is trial and error. You trialed you errored. It just isn't as easy as removing some stuff and presto it works. The factory system was engineered to work with ABS. You have 2 choices

1. Put back all the ABS Stuff and return the plumbing to stock
2. Get ready to spend a lot of time and money finding something that will work without ABS and 4 wheel discs.

 

[pitaSHO]

If you really don't want the ABS system then the "best" or "easiest" thing to do would be to copy the 89's brake system.

 

[Art5]

If you really don't want the ABS system then the "best" or "easiest" thing to do would be to copy the 89's brake system.

I wanted to do that, but have no access to 89 or information of how it's system set up.

 

[kevinspann]

Or find a non-abs taurus, but I think all of those came with rear drums.

 

[pitaSHO]

Check with shorangerbird and see if he can get you a full set of OEM 89 brake lines. Then you'll need the master cylinder. There is nobody where you are that has an 89 you can look at?

 

[Art5]

Check with shorangerbird and see if he can get you a full set of OEM 89 brake lines. Then you'll need the master cylinder. There is nobody where you are that has an 89 you can look at?

I'll try to PM him.
That's what I thought, maybe in non-ABS cars master cylinder works a lot different than ABS, pushing brake fluid in right proportions to the wheels.

There are barely any old SHOs around here and if there are any, they are Gen 2 in bad condition and people don't even know that it is not a regular Taurus.

 

[auto.guru]

I have GTP control arms on the car

why have i not heard of this???

 

[quikSHOilver]

check this out

here's something you need to check out SHO DUDE (Doug Lewis) posted

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=84461&highlight=abs+remove

 

[LOUDSHO92]

why have i not heard of this???

It has been around awhile but you need the special adapters. We do offer the Ingalls Control Arms that are direct bolt on's: SHO Source

 

[Art5]

It has been around awhile but you need the special adapters. We do offer the Ingalls Control Arms that are direct bolt on's: SHO Source

SO, GTP possible flex?

 

[Art5]

Damn, just read SHODude's posts and it is very interesting, and a little confusing at the same time. NOw, need to figure out more about "Primary Piston" and "Secondary Piston" and Proportioning valve and how to adjust it.

 

[shoon]

Damn, just read SHODude's posts and it is very interesting, and a little confusing at the same time. NOw, need to figure out more about "Primary Piston" and "Secondary Piston" and Proportioning valve and how to adjust it.

The little red clip it speaks of basically just spaces out the nut on the rod closest to the brake lines (pictured) approx. 1/4" from bottoming out.

 

[Art5]

Going back under the car to really see, what I'm dealing with there.

 

[Art5]

ok, so I want to try taking bias plugs out , but what to install instead? Car came with those and I don't have anything from previous owners.

 

[shoon]

ok, so I want to try taking bias plugs out , but what to install instead? Car came with those and I don't have anything from previous owners.

The only thing to replace the plugs with is the original valves. You will need a new proportioning valve or a used one to get them; the thread size is something ******** so it will make it extremely difficult to fab your own type of valve.

To be honest I would suggest replacing the ABS pump assembly first instead. With the electrical portion of the system detached the wheels shouldn't lock up as badly as before due to the restriction of fluid pressure going trhough the ABS unit. If that fails, start replacing ABS sensors and get the wiring done up. I'd leave the bias plugs until the end; because other users with stock brake systems don't usually report locking of the rear brakes as badly as you describe.

 

[Art5]

The only thing to replace the plugs with is the original valves. You will need a new proportioning valve or a used one to get them; the thread size is something ******** so it will make it extremely difficult to fab your own type of valve.

To be honest I would suggest replacing the ABS pump assembly first instead. With the electrical portion of the system detached the wheels shouldn't lock up as badly as before due to the restriction of fluid pressure going trhough the ABS unit. If that fails, start replacing ABS sensors and get the wiring done up. I'd leave the bias plugs until the end; because other users with stock brake systems don't usually report locking of the rear brakes as badly as you describe.

I appreciate your advise, but I really wouldn't want ABS system in this car anymore. Not only that I don't want that headache of maintaining it, but also, I need that space for a lot of other things that are on my mind. Besides, I don't drive this car as much , since this is my toy-car, so it will not see winter roads. I used to have Toyota Matrix and nearly crashed that one few time due to ABS kicking in at the wrong time on dry surface. I would rather have ABS in cars that come today in pair with traction control.