p1744 and runs like crap

[ThatShoGuy]

well i got this code pulled on my car
it is really driving like crap.
no engine light on. but it will pull codes p0412 and p1744 only while drivin....
this is the first time i pulled the p1744
but i had a feeling that the converter has been on its way out..

this is the deal

in the morning the car runs and drives great! then once it warms up. its starts to stumble, blog and anything you can name.. i was assuming its time for coils but once i pulled this code maybe its leading to the trans..

history on the trans. has about 35k on the rebuild and this just started to happen like a month ago(maybe 2kmiles).. and since my car has gained this "rod knock sound" i had a feeling the tq converter was acting up. since the motor has 20k on it and it started around 10k and i couldn't find any loose rod when pulling the oil pan, and the knock would come and go.

so im thinking i need a tq and kind of thinking the trans guy used the wrong one to start with because the car never felt right after the rebuild. such as it felt like the gearing was changed...

any suggestions before i go about pulling the trans and buying a tq converter. i have read about the tcc solenoid causing this code, but didnt think it would make the car run bad...


sorry for the long post

thanks for any input!

 

[SHOZ123]

You can use the Gen 2 TC. Most aftermarket ones you find use the same one. You can get a Gen 3 specific TC #F68ESHO from Dacco. I never had problems with the TC after replacing the OEM one. It was always the valve body after that. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=AX4Ntc

I have a rebuilt Gen 3 valve body and the special gasket for it too if you find you need it.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

You can use the Gen 2 TC. Most aftermarket ones you find use the same one. You can get a Gen 3 specific TC #F68ESHO from Dacco. I never had problems with the TC after replacing the OEM one. It was always the valve body after that. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=AX4Ntc

I have a rebuilt Gen 3 valve body and the special gasket for it too if you find you need it.

i did get a newer(used) tcc solenoid today form work. there is a trans shop in front of where i work.. so i luckily got it for free!

they also told me they can get me a woven tc for my car for around 50bucks.. also said something about getting my trans rebuilt for a very good price... but with it only having 35k on it im assuming its ok inside...

i just hate to pull the trans.....

by chance do you have the link for the tcc R&R and would you think thats my prob? or should i lean to the tc?

thanks paul your always tons of help to me!!!!!

 

[SHOZ123]

You can check the TCC solenoid without taking anything out. Just ohm it out through the connector sticking straight up on top of the trans.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

You can check the TCC solenoid without taking anything out. Just ohm it out through the connector sticking straight up on top of the trans.

any chance you have the info on that?

what ohms should i have?
thanks!

also i noticed every time i shut my car off my pcm resets all its codes? and all the monitors reset.. any suggestions with that?

 

[SHOZ123]

• Connect ohmmeter negative lead to TCC jack and positive lead to VPWR jack on tester.
• This is to test TCC.
• Record resistance. Resistance should be between 0.98-1.6 ohms.

Connect ohm meter between the transmission body and pin three.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

• Connect ohmmeter negative lead to TCC jack and positive lead to VPWR jack on tester.
• This is to test TCC.
• Record resistance. Resistance should be between 0.98-1.6 ohms.

Connect ohm meter between the transmission body and pin three.

ok i will do this

btw i was reading around old post this tcc i got form my work is with a blue connector...

i have read this would be the wrong part for my 97 tho when i got it we assumed the part number F70P-7G136-AA was for a 97?

 

[SHOZ123]

The blue I think is correct. The others are white but stained pink if used.

If the ohms is above the correct range it is either bad or the wrong one.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

The blue I think is correct. The others are white but stained pink if used.

If the ohms is above the correct range it is either bad or the wrong one.

k ill post back a little later with my findings

thanks!

 

[ThatShoGuy]

pulled ohms .88

 

[ThatShoGuy]

well when i did my sway bar links over the weekend. btw it was a pita! i had to cut the nuts off with a cut wheel... took me like 4hours

i pulled the neg cable on the battery and let everthing reset. the car has improved some. but still acts funny. im gonna pull the trans and get a full over view on it. because i pulled the stick and the fluid is brown and smells a little toasted... sad only has 35ish k on the rebuild.


thanks for your help Paul you ALWAYS come thru with answers for me!i wish we lived close so you could just over look my whole car.

 

[Meat_Loaf_Lite]

Not to interrupt the thread, but I just pulled a P1744 off my '99 yesterday, with the exact same symptoms the OP is describing. Tested the aforementioned sensor, got 1.2 ohms, and my transmission guy said there was not a single thing wrong with the car. Any other tests to run on this?