DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
Does this tank have a siphon block in it? Can i just siphon all the old gas out?
1994 SHO MTX Gas Tank?
- Thread starter DavesNOThereMAN
- Start date
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Shoaz
Studly dood
There's no specific siphon port, but you can use the fill neck to siphon the old fuel out.
Drain plug? I don't think I've seen a fuel tank with a drain plug in a long time.
frosho
WOLFMAN
WTF are you smoking, and where can I get some?
lowc
aka vapah lock
x2 please
DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
Im thinking since I want to change the fuel filter anyway, Release pressure at the fuelrail by doing the ol insert a tube and pin to catch some gas and then remove the fuel filter, put a gas container there and turn the fuel pump on.. The thing is what do I have to jump together to get the fuel pump to stay on? From What I remember its that extra little grey connecter next to the ODB-I test plug. But what am I supposed to connect that to?
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FastAndFurious
SHO Member
Just drill a hole and plug a bolt in there, and then you can call it a drain plug!
DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
Is drilling a hole in the fuel cell really a good idea? Doesnt sound too bright to me.
frosho
WOLFMAN
I'm sure he was kidding. Don't drill a hole in your fuel tank.
The gray plug you're referring to is the SPOUT connector and has nothing to do with the fuel pump. The pump relay is in the CCRM, so you might be able to jump some wires there if you can figure out which ones. Why do you want to remove the gas anyway?
The gray plug you're referring to is the SPOUT connector and has nothing to do with the fuel pump. The pump relay is in the CCRM, so you might be able to jump some wires there if you can figure out which ones. Why do you want to remove the gas anyway?
DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
What does the SPOUT connector do?what is SPOUT? I remember when doing the EEC Engine check for codes it runs the fuel pump so I thought I could put a paper clip and jump two connectors on the EEC-IV ODB test connector to get the furl pump to prime. The fuel in the tank is 2 years old, only about 2-3 gallons of it. From what I know the person who stored the car put fuel stabilizer in it. When I started her up it was running really rough so I guess the fuel filter must be shot with it sitting that long and no one starting it. I got the car for under $500 and already replaced the gaskets and belts, wires and plugs and cam seals..
frosho
WOLFMAN
Nevermind, I was thinking of a different connector. The gray one you're talking about is indeed for the diagnostic self-tests. Jumping the connectors like you said will prime the pump, but won't keep it running. The same thing happens every time you turn the key to RUN. The pump will prime for a few seconds and then shut off. You'll have to find another way to rig it to run constantly.
As for the SPOUT stuff.... it stands for SPark OUT, I think, and plays a role in determining spark timing and dwell. Here's a thread with more info - http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=56278
Post #19 has a good description.
As for the SPOUT stuff.... it stands for SPark OUT, I think, and plays a role in determining spark timing and dwell. Here's a thread with more info - http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=56278
Post #19 has a good description.
lowc
aka vapah lock
if your planing on doing that you might as well get a new pump and put it in once you get the tank down
FastAndFurious
SHO Member
I was joking. Haha I forgot to "JK" at the end.:wave:
DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
So I didnt drain all of the old fuel but I got atleast 1-1/2 gallons of it and added new gas, changed the fuel filter.. It started fine and ran and all but once it warmed up and the idle dropped a little it sounded like it was stumbling and wanted to stall out and came pretty close so I turned her off. No leaks or anything. Started her up again and let her idle and it was fine..
Besides looking into the oil cap hole and seeing oil there, how else can I be sure I have the proper oil pressure and it is through out the top of the engine? No oil light on at all.. Not sure if I may have the Alternator belt too tight. If I press on it it moves about half inch and the alternator was pretty warm quick.
Dreaded Parking-brake cable is frozen and both rear calipers are locked up. If I take the wheels off and disconnect it will the calipers free up or are they going to remain stuck since the car hasnt been moved in years?
Besides looking into the oil cap hole and seeing oil there, how else can I be sure I have the proper oil pressure and it is through out the top of the engine? No oil light on at all.. Not sure if I may have the Alternator belt too tight. If I press on it it moves about half inch and the alternator was pretty warm quick.
Dreaded Parking-brake cable is frozen and both rear calipers are locked up. If I take the wheels off and disconnect it will the calipers free up or are they going to remain stuck since the car hasnt been moved in years?
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DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
Any sugestions?
frosho
WOLFMAN
Stuck brakes - Replace the parking brake cables and the flexible rubber lines in the rear. And check/**** the slider pins.
Oil pressure - Should be fine if there's no red oil light illuminating. Just check the dipstick to make sure the level is OK.
Misfire - First, check for codes. Then check the spark plug wells for oil. When the plug well seals fail, the wells can fill with oil and short out the plug wires causing a misfire. It's also a good idea to clean the MAF.
Oil pressure - Should be fine if there's no red oil light illuminating. Just check the dipstick to make sure the level is OK.
Misfire - First, check for codes. Then check the spark plug wells for oil. When the plug well seals fail, the wells can fill with oil and short out the plug wires causing a misfire. It's also a good idea to clean the MAF.
DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
Running rough after long storage
Thanks for the info, when I changed the plugs there was no oil in wells 456 but there was some in 1 and 2 . Im not sure if it was from the bad o ring gaskets. I think its from the rubber gromets under the allen key valve bolt since the one next to plug 1 and 2 was leaking alot of oil from what it looked like when i took the intake off ..
So you think the rear rubber brake lines will be shot from the car sitting so long? Ill check her out tonight or tomorrow hopefully. These cars are fun to drive I had one a while back and cant wait to get this one back on the road.
Thanks for the info, when I changed the plugs there was no oil in wells 456 but there was some in 1 and 2 . Im not sure if it was from the bad o ring gaskets. I think its from the rubber gromets under the allen key valve bolt since the one next to plug 1 and 2 was leaking alot of oil from what it looked like when i took the intake off ..
So you think the rear rubber brake lines will be shot from the car sitting so long? Ill check her out tonight or tomorrow hopefully. These cars are fun to drive I had one a while back and cant wait to get this one back on the road.
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frosho
WOLFMAN
Try bleeding the brakes before replacing the lines. If you can easily get fluid out, the line is fine. If it's difficult, it's usually a case of the rubber line getting pinched by a corroded bracket (the one that holds the line to the strut). It's a very common problem.
BTW, I think you may have been right about jumping a test connector to run the fuel pump. Not the EEC terminal, but another one on the same plug. I don't know which one it is, but I think one of them will run the pump continuously. Not that it matters much any more.
BTW, I think you may have been right about jumping a test connector to run the fuel pump. Not the EEC terminal, but another one on the same plug. I don't know which one it is, but I think one of them will run the pump continuously. Not that it matters much any more.
DavesNOThereMAN
New Member
Thanks for all the info. I have one last question.. When I changed my rear cam seal that the CID sensor is connected to, I removed the two bolts that hold down the cam cap and was able to get the seal in pretty easy. Im thinking is it possible to overtighten those two bolts where it would cause an issue or cause friction on that part of the cam?
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