95 FORD SHO..runs good for first 20 minutes then idles irratically

[bigezzy1372]

im a 16 year old kid who has bought a ford sho with 171,000 miles on it,,,its a five speed with the 3.0 engine in it...problem i am haveing is the car will drive perfectly fine for 20 to 25 minutes then it will start to idle very irratically. and it being a stick shift u get no were saftly when the car is jolting with the engine...ive been told it could be an cam shaft pos. sensor or a crankshaft pos sensor???idk im only working part time and need to have 1200 dollars for insurance next year and money for school clothes and supplies for my senior year.so dont have alot of money to spend so would like to get to the sorce of the problem with out trial and error it seems like it acts up when it heats up...i also notice when it warms up it seems to lose power like its not as strong as when it was cold. when i shut it off it is really hard to start and sometimes ill get it started but it doesnt run right and if i take my foot of the gas it jsut putters down and dies but when i get it restarted again its fine for about 5 minutes till it acts up again....PLEASEEE HELPPP MEEEE

 

[93rev2sev]

It DOES sound like a cam sensor but if you want to be positive, you can unplug it for a day or 2.

As a result of the missing cam sensor, the car may be harder to start (you may need to try to start the car up to 3 times), but once started, your bucking and surging symptoms should be gone.

This will positively identify/rule out the cam sensor as the problem.


Or you could just use a paper clip to read the codes.

 

[Siman]

Get a code reader and see what code it pops. CPS might be the MAF posible DIS module best thing would be to get to auto zone and see what code its poping.

aditionlay might try unplugging the MAF and see if it clears up

 

[bigezzy1372]

were is the cam sensor at??is there 2 of them ?? and it would be ok to drive it without the cam sensor?? and if i disconect the maf sensor will it be ok to drive also?? and idt the autozone by my house will let me read anything i took it to school 2 times and put it on a genisis and it pulled no codes at all?

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Sell it and buy a Honda, quick!! I would NEVER want an unknown SHO at 16 years old! I'm 26 and sometimes, I DON'T WANT MINE!!



Honestly though, no fooling around. You're 16, have a part time job, going to school, etc.

You have a 171K mile SHO. NOT the car to have IMHO. I had a 1997 VW Jetta Diesel when I was your age. 45mpg and reliable.

If we were talking about a 80K mile car and you knew all the tune-ups and all were up to date, it would be a different story. It's not the parts that cost the $$$ it's the labor and down-time of the car. I know at 16, I needed a DD that never let me down.


Oh, and I vote for the cam sensor too. mine did the same thing. NO it will not run without it. Go here: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/ Lots of good info.

 

[bigezzy1372]

yeah i have a guy that said he and his son has been wanting one for a while and would trade me an 88 chevy stepside with a rebuilt 350 and a rebuilt trans with headers and magnaflow exhaust only needs like brakes and stuff so i think im just gonna trade him after i get a new cam sensor because that engine in my car has never been rebuilt so its prolly on the verge of dieing

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

yeah i have a guy that said he and his son has been wanting one for a while and would trade me an 88 chevy stepside with a rebuilt 350 and a rebuilt trans with headers and magnaflow exhaust only needs like brakes and stuff so i think im just gonna trade him after i get a new cam sensor because that engine in my car has never been rebuilt so its prolly on the verge of dieing

Sounds like a good idea. I doubt it's on the verge (mine has about 215K on it and runs strong) but you never know. Too much to gamble on.

350's are easy to work on and parts are CHEAP! Love the step-sides

 

[turbo79]

yeah i have a guy that said he and his son have been wanting one for a while, and would trade me an 88 chevy stepside with a rebuilt 350 and a rebuilt trans with headers and magnaflow exhaust -only needs like brakes and stuff so I think I'm just gonna trade him after I get a new cam sensor because that engine in my car has never been rebuilt so its prolly on the verge of dying

Actually, you can get, with proper maintenance, at least 300,000 miles out of a SHO 3.0 engine.

Of course, that maintenance is not free. If you just want a rig that will go from A to B fast, in a straight line, trade for the Chevy. SHOs are for going around corners as well as straight. Good for road trips where you want performance, and halfway decent gas mileage.

 

[zblackbeast]

Actually, these motors themselves are very stout and reliable... People have pulled them apart well over 200k miles and still have cross hatching from the factory.. its all the other sensors and gaskets and seals that like to die.. If you want to keep it, i think a front 60k is in order.. Only costs ~400 and a weekend with your buddies. Thats new cam sensor, crank sensor, timing belt, water pump and cam seals if your brave.. Also, is there oil in your spark plug wells? If so, you might want to add a top 60k to that list.. another 150 in parts.. Use this site as your source for parts/step by step guide. It also shows how to replace the cam sensor and more!! Good luck!

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/

 

[bigezzy1372]

yeah me and my dad just put new valve cover gaskets on and man it was a pain took us all day but we painted the valve covers green and they look pretty sick...but ne ways if i fix the cam sensor and the problem is fixed how much do u think i could get outta this car??the only thing thats wrong with the car is the tires, headliner is starting to peal, and the front seats are a little cracked up ???im not trying to be rude but i am not a big ford fan i bought it from some old dude for 900 bucks and i thought it was a good deal but i would rather have a chevy

 

[bigezzy1372]

oh yeah and were is the CAM SENSOR??

 

[Siman]

It should drive without a MAF the computer should default it self. the CPS is (looking at the engine) on the left on the rear most cam shaft. Its about id say 2-3 inches in diamiter and a little under an inch thick it sould be black.

 

[bigezzy1372]

i took the maf sensor off and it still did it so u all are almost sure its a cam sensor because i located were it was at behind the intake and there is quite a bit of black crud back there on it i think it has tre little bolts or screws that go to it and like 4 wires

 

[digsj7]

X2 on selling it. They are pricey to keep up! I am still wondering why I keep sticking $ in mine!!

 

[SHOlover1]

It should drive without a MAF the computer should default it self. the CPS is (looking at the engine) on the left on the rear most cam shaft. Its about id say 2-3 inches in diamiter and a little under an inch thick it sould be black.

then cps(crank position sensor) is directly about the main crank shaft the cid(cam sensor) is on the 3 shaft all the way to the back

how much you want for it

 

[Siman]

then cps(crank position sensor) is directly about the main crank shaft the cid(cam sensor) is on the 3 shaft all the way to the back

how much you want for it

They are both abrv the same in the terms of english. Since it was said reputedly in this article i didn’t think it had to be pointed out... but if you want to call it the cylinder identification sensor then we will..... rofl if you need one i got a spare here if you want it.

 

[32MTX]

first thing first

check the fuel pressure WHEN it is acting up and when it is running normal

 

[itwonder]

Before going further, reset the idle. First, drive the car until it is warmed up. Then:

1. Disconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Turn headlight switch on.
3. Wait ~10 minutes.
4. Turn headlight switch off.
5. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
6. Start engine, and immediately switch headlights on (bright), switch A/C on.
7. Wait a couple of minutes while computer recomputes the idle profile.


Next, go to http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm and read about how to performa the KOEO and KOER tests and read the codes. Run the car long enough for the problem to occur, then run these tests.

The same web site has information about how to change the CID. (cam sensor). But IMHO, it's easier to remove the passenger side surge tank connector (part that connects the front and back of the intake manifold. It has the DIS electronic ignition module mounted on it) from the intake manifold. That opens up the whole area and makes reaching the CID a cinch.

If that does not work, you may need to clean your idle air control (IAC). Use the search feature and you can find past posts about how to remove the IAC and clean it.

 

[bigezzy1372]

i dont no what to ask for it like i really dont no a reasonable price for it it has new brakes new valve cover gaskets just put an aftermarket radio in it has new spark plugs and wires, 2 new o2 sensors new m.a.f sensor i cleaned the iac motor only thing it needs is the sensor that is making it idle wierd and tires and that is it what should i ask for it guys and i herd there is a place on here were u can sell ur car is this it??

 

[bigezzy1372]

i already cleaned my iac motor and i have had it on the computer 3 different times and no codes and the guy who had the car befor me said he had it on 7 different computers and it wasnt showing nothin so its not showing codes....HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP should i just get a new cam sensor?