Yet another PTU thread...some history

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Bluezone

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Very good video explaining what's going on in the PTU. Only significant difference in our platform is the idler gear that sits in between the ring gear and pinion gear inside the PTU. It's this idler gear, or more specifically the bearing for that idler gear, that has been the culprit for many of the PTU failures. Hence, the many attempts by Ford to implement updates to it. The most recent iteration, combined with regular fluid changes, can drastically mitigate PTU failures, even at higher power output levels, in my opinion.

Thanks again for that great video!
Yeah I like that video. I also looked at the GM version of the PTU using the same transmission. They don't have idler gear problems they have pinion gear problems. Again insufficient lubrication in the case for GM.
 

SilvererSHO

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Trust me, I worked in aerospace as a CNC Programmer along the holier-than-thou "injuneers" half of whom couldn't even perform basic maintenance on their own vehicles let alone do my job. It's nothing to hang your hat on, that's for sure. Maybe the fact that I was making 25% more than say someone with 5-10 years experience working 45 hrs. per week than they were making salaried at 40 hrs. a week had something to do with their butt-hurtedness that led to their defense mechanism of douchebaggery. And 90% of them all are working in Corporate America anyways which just means they're usually incompetent but are super duper good at tossing their bosses salad all the way up the company ladder. That job was my second and last job in Corporate America. I'll collect beer cans out of the ditch before I go back. Can you tell I don't miss it?

I really don't get what the big hang up on our PTU's is? We all know they suck and we all know what needs to be done to keep them alive.... run quality oil and change it often. I'm still convinced the worst thing for them is low speed/idling in high heat weather where the oil is simply cooked by the converter. Is anyone with a wrapped catless downpipe seeing the oil burnt all to ****? Has anyone blew out a low mileage one from power alone? It's my understanding that the clutch limits the torque to the rear end so your PTU theoretically doesn't even see more torque over stock anyways. If only our POS transmissions were given as much thought and time....
 
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RoketRdr

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Trust me, I worked in aerospace as a CNC Programmer along the holier-than-thou "injuneers" half of whom couldn't even perform basic maintenance on their own vehicles let alone do my job. It's nothing to hang your hat on, that's for sure. Maybe the fact that I was making 25% more than say someone with 5-10 years experience working 45 hrs. per week than they were making salaried at 40 hrs. a week had something to do with their butt-hurtedness that led to their defense mechanism of douchebaggery. And 90% of them all are working in Corporate America anyways which just means they're usually incompetent but are super duper good at tossing their bosses salad all the way up the company ladder. That job was my second and last job in Corporate America. I'll collect beer cans out of the ditch before I go back. Can you tell I don't miss it?

I really don't get what the big hang up on our PTU's is? We all know they suck and we all know what needs to be done to keep them alive.... run quality oil and change it often. I'm still convinced the worst thing for them is low speed/idling in high heat weather where the oil is simply cooked by the converter. Is anyone with a wrapped catless downpipe seeing the oil burnt all to ****? Has anyone blew out a low mileage one from power alone? It's my understanding that the clutch limits the torque to the rear end so your PTU theoretically doesn't even see more torque over stock anyways. If only our POS transmissions were given as much thought and time....

ID 10 T
 

DILLARD000

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...we all know what needs to be done to keep them alive.... run quality oil and change it often. I'm still convinced the worst thing for them is low speed/idling in high heat weather where the oil is simply cooked by the converter...
Agree with at least this part of your comments. So far as "injuneers" are concerned, I'm one of those, retired now several years; yes there are plenty of engineers who are ********, mostly 20 something year old kids who think they know it all, but actually have never touched any equipment & can't find their own butts in the dark. A good honest tradesman (machinists, electrician, mechanic,...) is worth at least 2 or 3 average engineers; problem is corporate america is looking to offload legal liability to anybody with a college diploma & state PE license; thus the last 30year trend towards outsourcing to contract engineers who don't know **** about their area of so-called expertise. Got tired of it myself, so retired early & got the **** out with no regrets. I hope you too can get that "burr out of your saddle" & move on to enjoying life.

Vented now so back to subject Ford PTU;
got a 2008 EdgeAWD here, with the older notorious PTU part#AT4Z-7251 series, same\similar PTU used in several other model Ford\Lincoln\Mazda SHO\MKX\CX9\... It's the original without ventilation or a cooling loop, originally without a drain, now with ~150kMiles. The PTU mods below have kept it going; gearoil changes now are easy+quick, so I do that with 6mth\5kMile engine oil+filter changes. Unsure if viable in an SHO, but it's relatively inexpensive at ~$50 in parts, so something to consider:
~ Drilled+Tapped PTU Case bottom; installed new 3/8"=10mmThreadDiameter DrainValve Fumoto#f124n.
~ Removed PTU top Vent JiggleCap+Rubber1Way (used 5/8"Socket+ScrewPick); reveals 3/8"HoseBarb; installed 3/8"ID Fuel\Oil Hose upto new OilCatchCan on FireWall.
~ Replaced PTU side FillPlug with 1/2"PipeThread~3/8"HoseBarbElbow; installed 3/8"ID Fuel\Oil Hose upto new OilCatchCan on FireWall.
~ Installed new OilCatchCan\Tank + VentFilter + 3/8"PipeThread~3/8"HoseBarbElbows2ea on FireWall upper lip, between FuseBox+Battery.
Strainer fittings that came inside the OilCatchCan are not required, thus were removed & not used.
Now easy to drain PTU Oil & refill thru OilCatchCan top Plug: 1/2qt=16oz AmsOil#75w140.FullSyn + 2oz ATP#at205\ReSeal.
~ Also wrapped ExhaustPipe under+near PTU with FiberGlassInsulation to reduce that heating effect.
2008FordESEL TranPTU ModAValv 0i375oDia24MNPThrd0i375Barb Fumotof124n
2008FordESEL TranPTU ModBVent 0i375iDia0i625oDia
2008FordESEL TranPTU ModCFill 0i500oDia14MNPThrd0i375Barb
2008FordESEL TranPTU ModDTank 0i375iDia24MNPThrd0i375Barb
 
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Bluezone

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If you want to understand why the idler gear eats into the side of the case. Watch this video at 12:35.

 

JamesV1

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So I posted about a dragging sound from the rear end on some low speed turns(generally sharp ones). Initially thinking it was a hub or just general wheel slip it sounds like this may be a PTU issue? Although I don't have any grinding or strange noises on straight-line or any other times
 

2010TaurusSHO

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I have a 2010 Taurus sho, still (in December 2021) with the original PTU. The car has 98k miles right now, and the PTU is clean inside, and it still works nice and silent. My ptu does not have a drain plug. The ptu runs fine right now, no issues at all, **knocking on wood**. Anyhow....

How did I keep it maintained? By religiously changing the fluid at least every 30,000 miles or sooner. I change it every 20k miles, because I don't mind doing it more frequently. If you do this, the PTU will easily last at least 200k miles or potentially even 300k miles before it starts making noise due to wear. Having fresh clean fluid is key to make sure the ptu bearings and gears get properly lubricated and cooled too.
I sometimes went to the dealership to get the fluid changed out, but sometimes I did it myself in the driveway with the car on jack stands. It's a pain to do it, but once you settle on the proper tools and proper "gymnastics" to squeeze your hands to the fill plug, it becomes like a ritual, and it only takes 30 minutes to do it.

I always used Motorcraft 75w-140 gear oil in the ptu (until about 85k miles), because that's what was recommended in the owners manual, and the MC gear oils are cheap at Wally world. Recently, at around 85k miles, I switched to Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-140, just to see what all the hype is about Sever gear oil from Amsoil. The one thing I noticed was, the car does coast better with Amsoil severe gear oil. The car used to drop speed pretty quickly even with new clean MC gear oil, but with Amsoil, the car coasts so much better, and the fluid seems to stay clear and cleaner for longer, compared to the MC. I'm looking to swap out the diff fluid with Amsoil severe gear oil too, because right now, I've been running MC 80w90, and changed it at 60k miles last. I will just use 75w90 or maybe 140 on the diff too just to make service easier for both diff and ptu. I will have to change both the ptu fluid and diff fluid very soon, will be using Amsoil 75w140 for both ptu and diff. 140 will be fine for the diff too. 75w90 is for fuel economy, 75w140 will still protect it from wear just as good.

Another thing I religiously did ever since I did my first ptu fluid change when the car reached about 28k miles was clean the ptu magnetic fill plug at least at every 10k miles intervals. When I did my first ptu fluid change, I was shocked at how much metal was on the fill plug. The fluid was dark, almost black, and had some sparkle to it... That was very concerning to me, even though I knew the ptu went through the "break in" period. So ever since then, I started cleaning the magnetic fill plug every 10k miles, and I also started changing the fluid every 20k miles. The ptu is still going strong with almost 100k miles. The metal shavings started to slow down a little at about 50k miles. Now at almost 100k miles, there's very very little thin layer of very very fine metal shavings on the fill plug when I remove it to inspect it every 10k miles, the ptu is "broken in", and it is wearing nicely. What this tells me is the ptu is not destroying itself because I change the fluid often, and clean the magnet often so it does its job.

I go under the car every 10k miles to check everything. Make sure nothing is leaking, and to make sure everything looks good. When I go under the car, I clean the fill plug. It takes literally 5 minutes to take off the fill plug, clean it, and to ***** it back on.

And also, because I have a 2010 SHO, with the 3.5 Ecoboost, Ford recommended 5w20 back then. 2011 and newer SHO's use 5w30. I've been using 5w20 this whole time, and no my engine did not blow up. Water pump had to be changed once at around 80k miles, but the timing chain and everything was still really really tight and clean, even with 5w20. I might switch to 5w30 soon, because I'm concerned with fuel dilution. My engine oil absolutely reeks gasoline smell when I do a lot of short trips. Even though the engine is still fine, I think 5w30 will be better and I might be able to increase the oci slightly with peace in mind. My car loves Pennzoil platinum 5w20, and that's what I've used on my car pretty much since 2015. Before that, I actually used Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20, and kept the oci at 5k miles or sooner. Anyhow, I recently switched to Amsoil signature series 5w20 from PP 5w20. I think I finally found out Amsoils SS is the oil my car absolutely loves. The engine sounds very smooth and runs really quiet with Amsoil, and it does not burn ANY oil. I change the Amsoil SS out about every 5k miles, just because I don't mind doing that. My engine is happy, and that's what I like. 5k miles is about every 5-6 months for me.

This was a long one! Wanted to keep it short, but I figured this would start some new conversations, although this thread kind of looks like it pretty much stopped at September.
 

DILLARD000

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@2010TaurusSHO
Hip, Hip, Hurrah! Right on the money.

2008 Edge here with ~158kMiles, still running original V6~3.5L~DOHC, 6f50 Tranny
& PTU with added FumotoDrainValve & VentHose+FillHose+FillCanUnderHood & ExhaustPipeInsulation.
Am too changing PTU GearOil every 6mths, along with Engine Oil+Filter.
Been doing ~20oz of AmsOilSG#75w140.FullSyn in PTU,
last time decided to do half AmsOilSG#SAE250.FullSyn + half AmsOilSG#75w140FullSyn;
seems good so far. Thinking about full AmsOilSG#SAE250.FullSyn+FrictionModifier in all vehicles Difs & PTUs.

For engine, using 0w30.FullSyn each Spring, then 0w20.FullSyn each Autumn;
live at alitude in a cooler climate; for a typical climate I'd use 0w30.FullSyn year round.
K&N#HP series OilFilters with EasyOffHexNut on all vehicles.
 

SilvererSHO

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I have a 2010 Taurus sho, still (in December 2021) with the original PTU. The car has 98k miles right now, and the PTU is clean inside, and it still works nice and silent. My ptu does not have a drain plug. The ptu runs fine right now, no issues at all, **knocking on wood**. Anyhow....

How did I keep it maintained? By religiously changing the fluid at least every 30,000 miles or sooner. I change it every 20k miles, because I don't mind doing it more frequently. If you do this, the PTU will easily last at least 200k miles or potentially even 300k miles before it starts making noise due to wear. Having fresh clean fluid is key to make sure the ptu bearings and gears get properly lubricated and cooled too.
I sometimes went to the dealership to get the fluid changed out, but sometimes I did it myself in the driveway with the car on jack stands. It's a pain to do it, but once you settle on the proper tools and proper "gymnastics" to squeeze your hands to the fill plug, it becomes like a ritual, and it only takes 30 minutes to do it.

I always used Motorcraft 75w-140 gear oil in the ptu (until about 85k miles), because that's what was recommended in the owners manual, and the MC gear oils are cheap at Wally world. Recently, at around 85k miles, I switched to Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-140, just to see what all the hype is about Sever gear oil from Amsoil. The one thing I noticed was, the car does coast better with Amsoil severe gear oil. The car used to drop speed pretty quickly even with new clean MC gear oil, but with Amsoil, the car coasts so much better, and the fluid seems to stay clear and cleaner for longer, compared to the MC. I'm looking to swap out the diff fluid with Amsoil severe gear oil too, because right now, I've been running MC 80w90, and changed it at 60k miles last. I will just use 75w90 or maybe 140 on the diff too just to make service easier for both diff and ptu. I will have to change both the ptu fluid and diff fluid very soon, will be using Amsoil 75w140 for both ptu and diff. 140 will be fine for the diff too. 75w90 is for fuel economy, 75w140 will still protect it from wear just as good.

Another thing I religiously did ever since I did my first ptu fluid change when the car reached about 28k miles was clean the ptu magnetic fill plug at least at every 10k miles intervals. When I did my first ptu fluid change, I was shocked at how much metal was on the fill plug. The fluid was dark, almost black, and had some sparkle to it... That was very concerning to me, even though I knew the ptu went through the "break in" period. So ever since then, I started cleaning the magnetic fill plug every 10k miles, and I also started changing the fluid every 20k miles. The ptu is still going strong with almost 100k miles. The metal shavings started to slow down a little at about 50k miles. Now at almost 100k miles, there's very very little thin layer of very very fine metal shavings on the fill plug when I remove it to inspect it every 10k miles, the ptu is "broken in", and it is wearing nicely. What this tells me is the ptu is not destroying itself because I change the fluid often, and clean the magnet often so it does its job.

I go under the car every 10k miles to check everything. Make sure nothing is leaking, and to make sure everything looks good. When I go under the car, I clean the fill plug. It takes literally 5 minutes to take off the fill plug, clean it, and to ***** it back on.

And also, because I have a 2010 SHO, with the 3.5 Ecoboost, Ford recommended 5w20 back then. 2011 and newer SHO's use 5w30. I've been using 5w20 this whole time, and no my engine did not blow up. Water pump had to be changed once at around 80k miles, but the timing chain and everything was still really really tight and clean, even with 5w20. I might switch to 5w30 soon, because I'm concerned with fuel dilution. My engine oil absolutely reeks gasoline smell when I do a lot of short trips. Even though the engine is still fine, I think 5w30 will be better and I might be able to increase the oci slightly with peace in mind. My car loves Pennzoil platinum 5w20, and that's what I've used on my car pretty much since 2015. Before that, I actually used Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20, and kept the oci at 5k miles or sooner. Anyhow, I recently switched to Amsoil signature series 5w20 from PP 5w20. I think I finally found out Amsoils SS is the oil my car absolutely loves. The engine sounds very smooth and runs really quiet with Amsoil, and it does not burn ANY oil. I change the Amsoil SS out about every 5k miles, just because I don't mind doing that. My engine is happy, and that's what I like. 5k miles is about every 5-6 months for me.

This was a long one! Wanted to keep it short, but I figured this would start some new conversations, although this thread kind of looks like it pretty much stopped at September.
Can confirm, I have 125,000 miles on my 2012 PTU. I run Amsoil for the sole purpose of using the Amsoil bag to fill it. It's pretty handy when the oil is warm in the summer but doesn't work too well on cooler days. And I agree it's just as important to clean off the magnetic plug as changing the oil.

I do have one question however.

The one thing I noticed was, the car does coast better with Amsoil severe gear oil.

Seriously, where do you guys come up with some of this stuff? It's completely illogical. Your car goes north of 4,700 lbs. with you in it and a half a tank of fuel. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference if there was liquored down pi$$ or molasses in your PTU.
 

DILLARD000

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...125,000 miles on my 2012 PTU
...run Amsoil for the sole purpose of using the Amsoil bag
...handy when the oil is warm in the summer but doesn't work too well on cooler days
...as important to clean off the magnetic plug as changing the oil
...wouldn't be able to tell the difference if there was liquored down pi$$ or molasses in your PTU
All true, but wouldn't discourage anyone from doing frequent PTU GearOil changes,
believing they're doing some good, & having pride & a warm fuzzy (real or not) about the result.
AmsOil, bag or otherwise, does appear to be a good choice;
dip a cold quart bottle\bag in hot water for 5min just before use.
 

SilvererSHO

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All true, but wouldn't discourage anyone from doing frequent PTU GearOil changes,
believing they're doing some good, & having pride & a warm fuzzy (real or not) about the result.
AmsOil, bag or otherwise, does appear to be a good choice;
dip a cold quart bottle\bag in hot water for 5min just before use.
Where did I discourage anyone from changing their PTU oil? I $uck out and add 8-10 ounces on mine every or every other engine oil change at 5,000 miles. If I didn't, I wouldn't have 125,000 miles on the original PTU.


P.S. this word nanny feature here has got to go. You can't use $uck???
 

DILLARD000

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Yep, don't feel too bad, in some southern towns you can still get arrested for
eating IceCream on Sundays, cussing in public, & dancing (or having *** standing up).
But it's still ok to marry your cousin.
 
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