Wont Run after 60K service

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rubydist

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Before you tear it all apart again, check all your fuses to make sure nothing was accidentally shorted during your work.

Lack of spark is most likely a crank sensor or a dis problem. Double check all the grounds, especially the one to the upper intake, to make sure the dis is really grounded. If it is, then there is a good chance the new crank sensor is bad.

Installing the crank sensor is slightly tricky in that the magnet is on the bottom side of the thing, so it wants to have the bottom side stick to the crank pulley shutter. If one is not careful when tightening the little bolts on the sensor, it will move up, creating too large of gap on the top side and having no gap on the bottom side. This results in a dead crank sensor post haste.
 

Redneck1465

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I have triple checked all the grounds and they are all good. WHen you say the magnet what do you mean?? All I have is the CPS and wire. All you should have to do is remove the old one via taking the screws out and pulling it off and install the new one by screwing it in correct? How much space should it have?
 

Huntervf

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I believe the gap for the CPS is .003. Did you gap the CPS?

The magnet is actually the CPS. If you recall, the timing sprocket has a small space in the ring that runs past the CPS. When the engine turns over, the CPS detects that gap, and that's how it determines both the position of the crankshaft as well as engine RPM, which is also why you should see the tach moving if you have a functioning CPS.

Not sure what else to tell you; sounds like you've covered the bases. Unless there's something goofy with the CPS that's allowing it to drive the tach but not fire the motor. Just for grins, try tapping on the IRCM ... it's the black box underneath your engine card, on top of the radiator. You'll have to take the engine card off to see it, but sometimes those can go bad, and they will also prevent the engine from starting.
 

Redneck1465

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No I did not gap the CPS maybe that is the problem. When you say gap it do you mean from the ring on the back of the timing sprocket? Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.
 

Ocnaj

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No I did not gap the CPS maybe that is the problem. When you say gap it do you mean from the ring on the back of the timing sprocket? Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.

Yes, the gap between the magnet of the CPS and the 'ring' on the back of the timing sprocket. But like huntervf said if your tach is moving when you crank it then your CPS should be fine.

Is it throwing any codes?
 

93rev2sev

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Did you attach all 4 mounting bolts for the DIS?

If you just did the top 2 ... there's your problem. The BOTTOM 2 are the ones that supply the ground to the sensor.
 

Redneck1465

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I never took the DIS apart. The only thing I did was take off the crossover tube that the DIS is attached to and the DIS is brand new. The car was running just fine prior to the CPS change. The check engine light is not on but I could pull the codes just to see what it says if there are any that come up but dont trip the light.
 

Mr Anonymous

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I never took the DIS apart. The only thing I did was take off the crossover tube that the DIS is attached to and the DIS is brand new. The car was running just fine prior to the CPS change. The check engine light is not on but I could pull the codes just to see what it says if there are any that come up but dont trip the light.
Did'ja put the two bolts securing the crossover tube to the rest of the intake back in?

Are you saying the Check Engine light doesn't come on at all when you turn the key to run or try to crank?

Also check the PCM ground wire that comes off of the negative battery terminal, should be attached to the firewall between the washer fill and the PS reservoir, and there will be an inline connector there that needs to be connected as well.
 
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Redneck1465

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Yes the bolts are back in. The grounds are connected and are good. The check engine light does come on when the key is in the run position but there are no codes at all. I tried tappin on the IRCM and that did not make a difference either. Come to think of it when I put the crank sensor in I did make a small scratch on the back of the sensor because I hadnt gapped it far enough back at first. Could that have damaged the sensor enough that it wouldnt allow the car to run?
 

rubydist

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No I did not gap the CPS maybe that is the problem. When you say gap it do you mean from the ring on the back of the timing sprocket? Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.

If you did not gap the cps when you installed it, there is a 99.99% chance that the new cps is trashed. The magnet in the bottom part of the cps will want to stick to the pulley shutter and if you tighten it up like that, it will destroy the new cps after you crank over the engine. The gap needs to be approx .030", which leaves about the same gap on the bottom side.
 

Redneck1465

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So I should take and pull her back apart and see what a new sensor will do with a properly gaped space? And the gap is supposed to be from the ring on the back of the pulley that is on the crank and the sensor correct?
 

Redneck1465

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I took it back apart and found out that the ring had destroyed the back of the new crank sensor. I realize you are supposed to gap it now. But my question is how do I get the pulley on the crank that the timing belt goes to stay in place once I do get her gaped? What is going to stop it from destroying the new one as well?
 

rubydist

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Well, it helps if you have 3 hands..... You need to get the new sensor mounted loosely and then slip the crank pulley with the shutter back into place. Then, put a feeler gauge in there w/ .030 feeler and push the sensor down to close the gap and while you hold the feeler gauge in there and the sensor in place, tighten the little screws.

btw, I generally put 1 drop of blue loctite on each of those screws, to help make sure they don't come loose. However, if you put too much on, they will never come out again....
 

Redneck1465

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I apologize for so many questions and if this is a stupid on but are you holding the feeler gauge vertical or horizontal when you slide this the crank in there? Also is this when the vanes are open so you can slide the sensor in and out or when the vanes cover part of the sensor? Thank you so much for your help I really appreciate it.
 

Redneck1465

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Also I think the shutter may have been damaged by hitting the old crank sensor. Is there a way to repair this or is this something I should not worry about or what should I do? Thanks guys. I just realized I am a complete f****** ***** and I installed the sensor on backwards. That is why it did not work. I damaged the shutter on the crank doing this so I am going to see if I can get myself a new crank puller with shutter.
 
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Huntervf

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The first SHO repair I attempted I broke a tensioner bolt because I didn't realize I needed to loosed the tensioner pulley first :bonk:

It's weird that your tach was still reading even with a botched up CPS, but I suppose stranger things have happened.

atx26.jpg


This pic shows the CPS installed with a feeler gauge setting the gap. It's kinda small, but hopefully it helps. Once you tighten the CPS down you can always rotate the motor to ensure the timing sprocket doesn't contact the CPS.
 

Redneck1465

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Thanks for the picture it really helps. Should I just pull the crank timing belt pulley and see if I can straiten the shutter on the back? I called around and cant seem to find anyone that sells these units.
 

jayro

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Also I think the shutter may have been damaged by hitting the old crank sensor. Is there a way to repair this or is this something I should not worry about or what should I do? Thanks guys. I just realized I am a complete f****** ***** and I installed the sensor on backwards. That is why it did not work. I damaged the shutter on the crank doing this so I am going to see if I can get myself a new crank puller with shutter.

Don't feel bad...I've known others who put it on backward. I messed mine up the first time too. I had to replace my sprocket too. I would post in the "Wanting to Buy" section to see if anyone has a used one. Atleast you finally identified the problem.

Jeremy
 

Shopower400

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Did you line up the crank at 5 oclock or 7 oclock with the line on the belt? If you have it at 7, you have the timing belt on backwards and thats why its not starting, it should be at 5;)

How does having the timing belt on backwards make any difference? A belt is a belt right? Can the CPS read the lines on the belt, or something, and that's why it dosn't start? Just curious:munch::) Thanx!!!
 
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