Will not start
- Thread starter Devin
- Start date
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+2 on checking how the solenoid was wired. It could also be a bad battery cable(s), battery terminal(s), and/or just some wiring issue(s).
It's pretty common to have a bad battery cable or two on older SHOs due to corrosion inside. What happens is the strands break off on the inside, and then when you jiggle around the cable(s) just right, the broken strands "reconnect" again. I've replaced all cables on both of my '89's, and now they don't give me any electrical issues.
Make sure the smaller wire from negative terminal is grounded on sheet metal off to the side of battery, and smaller wire from pos terminal is connected. Or, it won't start as simple as it might sound, since they are for your ECU. I'd look into the cables, wiring connections, and to go from there. Good luck!
It's pretty common to have a bad battery cable or two on older SHOs due to corrosion inside. What happens is the strands break off on the inside, and then when you jiggle around the cable(s) just right, the broken strands "reconnect" again. I've replaced all cables on both of my '89's, and now they don't give me any electrical issues.
Make sure the smaller wire from negative terminal is grounded on sheet metal off to the side of battery, and smaller wire from pos terminal is connected. Or, it won't start as simple as it might sound, since they are for your ECU. I'd look into the cables, wiring connections, and to go from there. Good luck!
Good news, it still doesn't start, but it turns over now. Turns out the positive cable was corroded. I cleaned the clamp and cut the corroded wire off. Now I'm trying to figure out the no start. What is the best way to check for spark?
if you pull the boot off a plug and lay the wire down in the plug well and watch while someone cranks the car over, you should hear a sharp crack and see a spark from the wire.
be sure there is no gasoline or gas fumes in the area, or you will not see anything but a hospital room.
be sure there is no gasoline or gas fumes in the area, or you will not see anything but a hospital room.
intimdatr
Got Cams?
Or we have a spark tester. Cool little gadget, you plug it into the wire and on the plug and it will light up, well sorta flash every time the plug sparks.
intimdatr
Got Cams?
Figured it out
I exhausted all other possibilities. So then I took apart the front end and found this:
(click for a larger image)
(click for a larger image)
I exhausted all other possibilities. So then I took apart the front end and found this:
(click for a larger image)
(click for a larger image)
Since the water pump pulley chewed through the old CKS wire, I want to make sure that doesn't happen again. This is how it is routed now, let me know if I am making a mistake again:
(click for larger images)
(the nut is installed now...)
I can't measure that gap, but it looks to be about 1/4in. I just shoved the harness into the gap in the middle timing belt cover as securely as possible, but there really is nothing to keep it in. Does the lower timing cover secure it at all?
(click for larger images)
(the nut is installed now...)
I can't measure that gap, but it looks to be about 1/4in. I just shoved the harness into the gap in the middle timing belt cover as securely as possible, but there really is nothing to keep it in. Does the lower timing cover secure it at all?
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that should work - the wire is pretty tight in that notch in the middle cover, and the lower cover goes over the top of it and keeps it in there.
did you gap the crank sensor properly? It wants to clamp to the shutter wheel on the back side (too large of gap on the side you measure) and if it does that it will tear itself up in short order...
did you gap the crank sensor properly? It wants to clamp to the shutter wheel on the back side (too large of gap on the side you measure) and if it does that it will tear itself up in short order...
I gapped it by inserting a .030in feeler gauge in between the rim of the pulley and the inside of the sensor, held down each side and tightened down both screws.
If my crank and camshafts have not rotated, do I need to be careful in what orientation the timing belt is installed?
intimdatr
Got Cams?
I guess you could just put the belt back on. But it just seems like a bit of a risk. Lol
The issue is since I can't rotate the engine I can't follow the instructions to line up the marks to the belt.
if you just put the belt on, there is a 90% chance you will be off one tooth. That is because the 'tight' side of the belt is impossible to make tight enough by hand when you install the belt.
you can always rotate the engine. put a 19mm on the crank bolt to turn the crank. yes, put the bolt in and turn the crank, then pull the bolt out again to install the crank damper pulley. you can turn the cams by a strap wrench (preferred) or by putting a 10mm on one of the cam sprocket bolts (must be very careful not to break the bolt) and by doing so you can get it all aligned.
I have taken apart SHO motors that have been off a couple of teeth on one cam and they don't have decent power, won't pass emissions, have poor gas mileage, etc. you want to get it right the first time.
you can always rotate the engine. put a 19mm on the crank bolt to turn the crank. yes, put the bolt in and turn the crank, then pull the bolt out again to install the crank damper pulley. you can turn the cams by a strap wrench (preferred) or by putting a 10mm on one of the cam sprocket bolts (must be very careful not to break the bolt) and by doing so you can get it all aligned.
I have taken apart SHO motors that have been off a couple of teeth on one cam and they don't have decent power, won't pass emissions, have poor gas mileage, etc. you want to get it right the first time.
Is the timing mark on the balancer the middle indent? There is no obvious white marking on the pulley anymore.
Nevermind, I just noticed that there is an indent on the timing belt pulley and a raised section on the oil pump housing, so I assume lining those up is what I am supposed to do. The cam shaft sprockets has indents and those look fairly straight forward.
Nevermind, I just noticed that there is an indent on the timing belt pulley and a raised section on the oil pump housing, so I assume lining those up is what I am supposed to do. The cam shaft sprockets has indents and those look fairly straight forward.
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I know this thread is really dead, but I figured an update on the root cause was in order. The reason why the CKS was chewed up was due to a missing bolt in the lower timing cover. When I rebuilt the engine, the lower timing cover was missing a mount point. Somehow it was broken off and I didn't even notice it. However during the investigation I noticed that the lower timing cover had play and allowed the CKS harness to migrate from the indentation in the middle cover towards the water pump pulley, which then caused intermittent and disastrous engine operation.
The moral of the story is, make sure the CKS harness is routed properly and is held in securely.
The moral of the story is, make sure the CKS harness is routed properly and is held in securely.
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