Which Engine Degreaser Do You Use?

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JRA2000TL

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The 89's is filthy; oil leaks from every orifice and is dried/caked on. The worst areas are around the CID (yay for cam seal leaks), timing cover, front main and the starter/oil filter area---just nasty.

I want to get some degreaser and just coat the whole thing and take it to a do-it-yourself carwash and pressure wash it off. I'm guessing I need to cover the coil pack and DIS and try not to spray directly where the plug wells are.

Simple green and a rag won't work. I used that on the 90 I had and my 95 because they weren't covered in oil and filth. Simple green is fine for cosmetic spot cleaning but never worked any miracles for me. Thinking about Gunk Engine Brite.
 
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zach44102

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you might want to try a engine DE-greaser. Using engine greaser is your problem. lol :p
 

RAYJAY

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regular gunk works the best for me.

the bright to me does not clean as good as the original gunk,
they say to shut off the motor when you wash i alway keep it running,I do mine in the drive way have the wife or a friend race the motor a little to keep from stalling, also if you have abs cover that had more problem with that than the dis and coil pack
 

frosho

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Definitely try to avoid getting water in and around the plug wells, and don't be surprised if they get wet anyway. I personally wouldn't want to do this unless I have a compressed air source nearby to blow the water out of the wells afterwards. I power-washed my whole engine bay earlier this year, and 5 of the 6 wells needed to be blown out. Even after they were dried out, the resulting misfire took a little while to clear up.
 

operdot

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I don't see the point of the exercise, the oil stains are just going to come right back. I would rather fix the oil leaks first and then clean the engine.
 
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You wanna know what works really well.... Lemon scented oven cleaner from the dollar store... like dollar general if you can find one. Works as good as Easy OFF.. almost better I think, but its only $1 a can. Let it soak... :)

This, and some dish detergent and water in a pail.

Get some of those cheap paint brushes, and stiff bristle parts cleaner brushes too. Takes a little elbow grease (pun, very intended), but it's much safer than power washing.

I don't see the point of the exercise, the oil stains are just going to come right back. I would rather fix the oil leaks first and then clean the engine.

Pretty sure Jeremy's intention is to fix the oil leaks at some point, but working on a crusty, greasy, dirty engine sucks. Plus, if you're going to open up the engine by pulling seals and whatnot, seems much better to do it on a clean engine.
 

RAYJAY

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I don't see the point of the exercise, the oil stains are just going to come right back. I would rather fix the oil leaks first and then clean the engine.

all my motors get cleaned once a year, by keeping the motor clean it help keep it cooler all the dirt and gunk work like a insulator and also if you having a problem you can find a leak faster on a clean motor.....


Jeff
 

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I made myself a home-made hot water sprayer. I never liked how a pressure washer would force water into the smallest of places and it would take forever to get it out.

So, I went to the washtub in my garage and installed a double valve on the hot water feed. One outlet went to the sink as before, but the other got a female airhose quick connect. Then I would just attach an airhose and a long snout air wand with the end pinched down a little and voila' a hot water sprayer.

I've since changed out the spray wand to a pressure washer wand that has a variable spray pattern, and I turned up the thermostat on the waterheater to about 150 degrees. By the time it goes through the rubber hose, it is only about 120 degrees but it works beautifully.

I also use a cleaner I found at Checker Auto called "Oil Eater". I cut it 50/50 to make it go further. Spray it on, let set for 2 minutes, how water spray it off. Repeat as needed.

Oven cleaner does work very well also but some brands just love aluminum, so be carefull.

Oh yeah, one more thing. If you have crusty dried up oil and grime, diesel fuel make a great softener.

Tom
 

32MTX

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X2 on brake cleaner, the chlorinated stuff works better, but don't get it on your skin- armpits and eyes are particular heinous spots
 

RAYJAY

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X2 on brake cleaner, the chlorinated stuff works better, but don't get it on your skin- armpits and eyes are particular heinous spots


brake cleaner in the arm pits ............:laugh_ti: I'm not even going to ask how....... sat on couple of rag soaked in brake cleaner that sucks could not even think about the arm pits....
 

LJRuddy

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Jeremy, go to any local hobby shop that sells nitro R/C cars and look for a R/C car degreaser (will be in an aerosol can). That stuff is awesome. Spray it on the grease, watch the grease drip to the ground and the spray evaporates instantly leaving you with a clean dry surface that you didnt even have to touch. It is also 100% safe for electronics.
 
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JRA2000TL

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Pretty sure Jeremy's intention is to fix the oil leaks at some point, but working on a crusty, greasy, dirty engine sucks. Plus, if you're going to open up the engine by pulling seals and whatnot, seems much better to do it on a clean engine.

^ This

If I do ANY type of work under the hood or under this car no matter how simple, I get filthy. Just crawling under it the other day to remove and reinstall the tranny fill plug, I got grease all over me from bumping up against the underside of the car.

Thanks for all the replies; at least I have several options to try to see what works best. As for the seals, yes I plan to fix them but not now--fall or winter. It's too damned hot from now until October to work on cars for me. I hardly drive this car.
 
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