Which are the correct timing marks

[shomethe$$$]

I changed a timing belt and I followed the SHO engine manual, my car runs but is pinging under high gears, so I decided to pull a timing cover and check it but can't figure out which are the marks, is it the white one's on the belt or the dots on the cam pulley

these picture's were taken both with crank pulley on 0 degrees, the YELLOW mark as the book stated but the cams are not lining up to the dot or the white mark on the belt, please help




crank on 0 degree's on the plastic cover, YELLOW mark, white mark on belt passed marker, no dot in sight


crank on 0 degree's on the plastic cover, YELLOW mark, dot is about 10:00 position, no match on timing cover

 

[Lightning]

Have a read of this page, it is part of write up on how to perform the front 60k maintenance, but page 3 deals with setting the timing of the gears and belt and should provide you all the info you need to check this on your car.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k3.htm

It definately looks to me like you need to pull the belt and line everything up again...

 

[yzstud]

you're suppose to use the white index mark, not the yellow one,
and wtf did ya do to the timing belt cover?

check this out: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/f7/88/0900823d800bf788/repairInfoPages.htm
pay close attention to step 13 for the 3.0
it's suppose to be the white index mark on tdc#1 and the index marks on the cams

 

[Mr Anonymous]

The lines on the belt will not be lined up 99% of the time once the motor has been turned over after installation.

They will line up once in x number of revolutions, I just can't remember that number off the top of my head.

If you need to verify timing, you need to verify the dimples on the sprockets to the index lines on the rear timing cover, and the 0 degree mark on the lower timing cover to white line on the crank pulley.

EDIT: Also remember that the cams will rotate once for every two revolutions of the crank, so if your crank pulley is at 0 degrees and you don't see the dimples, they are probably 180 degrees south. Rotate the motor 360 degrees.

 

[shomethe$$$]

you're suppose to use the white index mark, not the yellow one,
and wtf did ya do to the timing belt cover?

check this out: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/f7/88/0900823d800bf788/repairInfoPages.htm
pay close attention to step 13 for the 3.0
it's suppose to be the white index mark on tdc#1 and the index marks on the cams

Its a long story, but I think I have the marks correct, I just didn't take the correct picture, I didn't have time to take the crank pulley off and check the lower mark so I'm using the yellow and white marks. I've done the timing belt on my old SHO just can't remember which are the marks. If the yellow is 60 BTDC then I have it correct since the dimple is 60 BTDC, right?

 

[yzstud]

line up the WHITE index mark on the balancer to the 0 degree on the lower timing belt cover, and compare them marks to the cam gears, if you do not see them(cam gear markings) rotate it once more because the crank rotates at half the rate of the cams, then check again to verify correct timing

 

[itwonder]

line up the WHITE index mark on the balancer to the 0 degree on the lower timing belt cover, and compare them marks to the cam gears, if you do not see them(cam gear markings) rotate it once more because the crank rotates at half the rate of the cams, then check again to verify correct timing

yzstud is correct. The yellow mark is the point in rotation where the timing belt is most slack and it used to set the tensioner. The white mark is the TDC reference mark. The dots on both of the camshaft pulleys should align with the embossed lines in the rear timing cover when that white mark on the crank pulley is aligned with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing cover (every other revolution). There is no need to use the dot reference mark on the crankshaft timing sprocket once the dampener pulley has been installed. Once the engine has been run, the white lines on the belt will not align. That does not matter if the crank and pulley marks are determined to be aligned correctly.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Its a long story, but I think I have the marks correct, I just didn't take the correct picture, I didn't have time to take the crank pulley off and check the lower mark so I'm using the yellow and white marks. I've done the timing belt on my old SHO just can't remember which are the marks. If the yellow is 60 BTDC then I have it correct since the dimple is 60 BTDC, right?

Did you read my first reply?

Ok, good. Now, IGNORE THE YELLOW MARK ON THE CRANK PULLEY. It's only purpose is for having the rotating assembly in the proper position before securing the timing belt tensioner.

My earlier reply tells you all you need to know to verify that your timing is correct.

 

[shomethe$$$]

Thanks, I think the timing correct, i'll check it one more time this weekend, I guess the detonation, running lean, high idle and power slump between 3-4k is another problem, my guess, its the 3" exhaust not creating enough backpressure, i'm getting 22 mpg city.

Check out SHO-frankenstein project in SHO related.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Thanks, I think the timing correct, i'll check it one more time this weekend, I guess the detonation, running lean, high idle and power slump between 3-4k is another problem, my guess, its the 3" exhaust not creating enough backpressure, i'm getting 22 mpg city.

No, you have a A/F metering problem.

Either a contaminated/bad MAF, or slow/bad O2 sensors.

Start by cleaning your MAF sensor filaments and then reset your keep-alive memory.

 

[shomethe$$$]

No, you have a A/F metering problem.

Either a contaminated/bad MAF, or slow/bad O2 sensors.

Start by cleaning your MAF sensor filaments and then reset your keep-alive memory.

Thanks, I'll look into those, I do have a set of extra 02 sensors, I didn't think those could be problems because I have no CEL and never have, just a slump from 3-4k rpms, the car is running real lean. Me and Josh have been emailing back and forth about this, the only problem that was found was I adjusted the fuel pressure 7psi below, one high resistance plug wire, all fixed but the problem is still there just a lot less, its only WOT, throw me some comments please.

The problem is worse after about 1 hour of stop and go traffic, the idle shoots way up to 2000 and takes about 30 secs to come down, it detonates and lacks power but never a CEL.

 

[hawkeye18]

I could read the numbers on that timing belt. You know you're not supposed to be able to read the numbers on the timing belt from the passenger's side, right?

 

[shomethe$$$]

I could read the numbers on that timing belt. You know you're not supposed to be able to read the numbers on the timing belt from the passenger's side, right?

I think the timing is correct, I remember it was dimples on the cams and then 5 o'clock mark on the crank gear, thats when I installed the belt, I'm pretty sure, the white line marks wouldn't line up on the belt if it were flipped. Car is good except on WOT.