What's your suspension mods?

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SHOmethewayhome

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Roush springs, 24MM front and 26MM rear sway bars. I originally used the KYB GR2 struts, but they felt like crap. It gave the car a really floaty feel through corners. So I put in the factory non Sarc motorcraft and it feels alot better.
015

this is the first picture i've seen of a Gen 3 where i actually like the look of it.
 
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A great mod is air suspension. I have done this on my Gen III, they are still adjustable with soft to firm like the stock struts. I have it so that I can have it in auto, firm , or soft. Then on top of that I have the air ride fully automatic so it is always at a good ride hight with no ass sag and I can also lower it if need be. The car rides great and handles even better.
I don't know if you can tell, but the top image is at ride hight, bottom is lowered
1001120
1001117

Interesting. Continental parts?
 

Izzmo

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Roush springs, 24MM front and 26MM rear sway bars. I originally used the KYB GR2 struts, but they felt like crap. It gave the car a really floaty feel through corners. So I put in the factory non Sarc motorcraft and it feels alot better.
015
Do your wheels rub?
 

bad_4dr_sho

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no not at all and I'm running 245/50 16's, and the ride isn't anywhere to as rough as everyone says it is. I was kinda disappointed on how smooth the roush springs are, compared to by buddy's fox body mustang with the Ford Racing springs, my car rides like a cadillac.
- by the way thanks SHOmethewayhome for the complement
 
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shadownos4

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I did it all myself, all computers, wiring, switches, etc. It was no easy task but all my vehicles have air ride. My 1991 is getting the rear baged this summer to help with the rear sag. I did my collage senior thesis on air and hydrualic suspensions seven years ago and in doing so I put together alot of information. That is when I first converted my girlfriends 2000 Taurus to rear air ride. From that point on it was what I had to drive, thats why my 97 is all four air. So is my wifes Navigator (stock), my Dodge which I did in highscool, and 91 is in the works.
 

slowshow

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Did a brief search for Roush springs with no luck finding anything. Are those discontinued like the Eibach?
 

luigisho

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Did a brief search for Roush springs with no luck finding anything. Are those discontinued like the Eibach?

Yes. You will need to keep your eyes open on ebay and the classifieds here and on TCCA. See if SHOSource has anything or is thinking about a run of custom springs.
 

MichiganSHO96

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Has anyone cut their springs? Some cars its fine but some its a bad idea.

Jerry
 
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bad_4dr_sho

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Taurus's have weak rear springs already. Cutting springs give you a bouncy out of control feel. And there is no telling what spring rate you'll end up with. Getting a good handeling car is a measure of balance and science, which cutting springs throws out of the window. I read once of Intrax making springs for SHO's, but I don't know if it was for Gen3's. Spend the 200 - 400 bucks and buy springs made for the car. Also I would suggest anybody getting ready to replace your springs, you might as well look into any sway bar upgrades while your at it.
 

slowshow

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I'm going to look at lowering it with the struts and wiring the SARC active and see how that feels. I have not looked at it yet, but according a to a few of you on here, pinch bolts allow you to adjust the ride height on the strut.
 

1995mtxsho

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I'm going to look at lowering it with the struts and wiring the SARC active and see how that feels. I have not looked at it yet, but according a to a few of you on here, pinch bolts allow you to adjust the ride height on the strut.
SARC is on full "stiff" when deactivated, pull the large SARC fuse in the underhood fuse box.

Leave the pinch bolts alone, they are best left to do what they were intended, IMHO.
You can only get about an inch At best by sliding the struts in the knuckles anyway.
 
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SHOZ123

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The pinch bolts will slide through an alignment tab. The tab can easily be removed and lower or raise the strut in the knuckle, it offers almost no structural support. Especially works well in the rear to raise the back end due to the normal POS Ford SAS.
 

Izzmo

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The pinch bolts will slide through an alignment tab. The tab can easily be removed and lower or raise the strut in the knuckle, it offers almost no structural support. Especially works well in the rear to raise the back end due to the normal POS Ford SAS.
I have always had a question about that.

Wouldn't you need to make sure you tighten the pinch bolt down extra tight? The whole reason the tabs are there is so you don't have to tighten down the tab a whole lot, and it makes it so it doesn't move down any farther.

But, if you totally remove the tab from the strut, let's just say you hit a really hard bump or *** hole, isn't there a chance of the strut slipping down?

I realize there is only so much the hub can slide up the strut since the strut bows out.

Any thoughts on that?
 

SHOZ123

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The tabs are there as a stop for installation purposes so they are all the same height. It is a flimsy piece of metal that offers no support.
 

slowshow

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My only purpose to drop the front is so that it matches the rear! I would rather lower the fron that raise the rear.Tackling that this weekend. Will post some pics of the job, if I can figure out how to post them...!!
 

SHOZ123

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My only purpose to drop the front is so that it matches the rear! I would rather lower the fron that raise the rear.Tackling that this weekend. Will post some pics of the job, if I can figure out how to post them...!!

:p Just wait the rear will keep saggin......
 

1995mtxsho

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Most people wont get much more than 1/2" in the rear either running stock size tires, any more and the strut spring pirch contacts the tire.

The only good Dropping the strut in the knuckle would do is to fine tune after a car is lowered via the springs. IMHO
 

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