What's your suspension mods?
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Izzmo
SHO Enthusiast
I put in a 24mm sway bar in the front and a 26mm in the rear and is a remarkable change. The handling is a lot better, and as others have said, you feel you turn a little quick (the reaction time from when you turn the wheel to when the car actually turns).
I have also added Aluminum Sub-frame bushings, but I don't really know if they actually added anything to the car other than not having to ever change out those bushings again (I hope). If anything, the ASFB's have negatives in that you get a like of NVH compared to the stock bushings.
I have also added Aluminum Sub-frame bushings, but I don't really know if they actually added anything to the car other than not having to ever change out those bushings again (I hope). If anything, the ASFB's have negatives in that you get a like of NVH compared to the stock bushings.
I think the car handles alright as it is. I have never pushed it very hard at all. I thought the car stopped well, too, that is before I replaced pads and rotors because they were grinding into each other! The biggest thing for me was the knocking over uneven road, which was rectified by end links and lower ball joint. I guess what I am trying to say is that I want to take away the gap between the fender and tire, you know, the gap big enough to fly a 747 through? I want it to sit a little lower, but have the car ride as well as it does now.
I have read SARC is a pain. And the ideal set up would be to run drop springs with the SARC enabled at all times. Can the struts hold up while running enabled full time? Anyone running or have done that before? I still have to override my system to see what it feels like, because I sure can't ever tell if it's working. Just like I had no idea about the sound of secondaries until I installed a CAI.
I have read SARC is a pain. And the ideal set up would be to run drop springs with the SARC enabled at all times. Can the struts hold up while running enabled full time? Anyone running or have done that before? I still have to override my system to see what it feels like, because I sure can't ever tell if it's working. Just like I had no idea about the sound of secondaries until I installed a CAI.
three50one
SHO Member
You want this:
To get to this, correct?:
I'm running Eibach lowering springs with KONI adjustable struts. ShoSource says they're working on an alternative as the Eibachs are no longer being made. I've never run lowering springs with the stock struts so I have no input on longevity or ride quality. I run the KONIs at full stiff most of the time and I don't have a problem living with it.
To get to this, correct?:
I'm running Eibach lowering springs with KONI adjustable struts. ShoSource says they're working on an alternative as the Eibachs are no longer being made. I've never run lowering springs with the stock struts so I have no input on longevity or ride quality. I run the KONIs at full stiff most of the time and I don't have a problem living with it.
elarm1
Maryland Native
You want this:
To get to this, correct?:
prolly without the dirt eh?!
Haha, yeah. Looks good. That's about right, with the exception of a car wash... Drop springs with Koni's means no adjustability for ride height, correct? I do like how low, but rear is still lower than the front. I would hate to go through the time and money only to have it not match. I have always used adjustable coilovers or gotten the look I was going for with drop springs. The rear of my car already sags lower than your sock picture,but sure its because of old springs. Yours looks like a 98-99, so you did not have to mess with SARC, right?
three50one
SHO Member
It's a 97. I just unplugged the SARC from the harness and pitched the struts. That was spring time before it was warm enough for me to wash it anyway.
The rear is the same height as the front. The wheel well isn't exactly center on the wheel and is smaller than the front well. I can also move the strut up in the knuckle if I wanted, but I used the stock mounting locations.
No dirt since you guys want to be jerks
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three50one
SHO Member
Take the wheel off and look at the way the strut is held on. It just slips on and is held in place with a pinch bolt.
luigisho
SHO Member
My suspension mods include possibly a broken spring, worn out SARCS, and a squeeky rear strut mount.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
LOL
I am a bit handling oriented so many of my modifications have been aimed that way.
Unlike some, I find that the 26mm rear bar lightens up the back end too much for serious back road speed if the roads are not very smooth. I backed off to a 23mm and find it just right for the kind of pushing ******* winding and often less than perfect country pavement.
The aluminum sub frame bushings are an essential part of taking flex out of the frame, which is a main requirement to improve handling. Solid bushings remove the flex at the bottom of the front box. To take it out at the top, you need the bar that connects the tops of the front strut towers. At that point you have a very tight front box. Interestingly, the rear box already had such a bar so none is needed.
Tires are then the remaining item, as both the springs and struts are already very good. Tires remain one of the areas where you really do get more by paying more. Over the years I have found I tend to be best off with performance tires from Bridgestone, and every time after trying something else (as I am doing now with the OK, but far from great one I have on now) I end up going back to them. Hopefully these will wear out soon. :sun:
pax, smn
Izzmo
SHO Enthusiast
Do you get any understeer with that setup (23mm in the rear)?LOL
I am a bit handling oriented so many of my modifications have been aimed that way.
Unlike some, I find that the 26mm rear bar lightens up the back end too much for serious back road speed if the roads are not very smooth. I backed off to a 23mm and find it just right for the kind of pushing ******* winding and often less than perfect country pavement.
The aluminum sub frame bushings are an essential part of taking flex out of the frame, which is a main requirement to improve handling. Solid bushings remove the flex at the bottom of the front box. To take it out at the top, you need the bar that connects the tops of the front strut towers. At that point you have a very tight front box. Interestingly, the rear box already had such a bar so none is needed.
Tires are then the remaining item, as both the springs and struts are already very good. Tires remain one of the areas where you really do get more by paying more. Over the years I have found I tend to be best off with performance tires from Bridgestone, and every time after trying something else (as I am doing now with the OK, but far from great one I have on now) I end up going back to them. Hopefully these will wear out soon. :sun:
pax, smn
Not much since the stock front is 22mm. (assuming he's using a stock front bar) The rear will actually want to kick out on fast, sharp downhill sweepers...don't ask me how I know.
I have the same setup minus the ALSB and like it. (I did put new 'rear' gen 3 bushings at all 4 corners of the front subframe, though)
I have the same setup minus the ALSB and like it. (I did put new 'rear' gen 3 bushings at all 4 corners of the front subframe, though)
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Izzmo
SHO Enthusiast
Oh, well I guess now that you mention it, Stephen never did say you had upgraded the fronts.. so that would make sense
shadownos4
For The SHO
A great mod is air suspension. I have done this on my Gen III, they are still adjustable with soft to firm like the stock struts. I have it so that I can have it in auto, firm , or soft. Then on top of that I have the air ride fully automatic so it is always at a good ride hight with no ass sag and I can also lower it if need be. The car rides great and handles even better.
I don't know if you can tell, but the top image is at ride hight, bottom is lowered
I don't know if you can tell, but the top image is at ride hight, bottom is lowered
SuperHO
Mental Patient
OEM motorcraft struts from a 2002 Taurus SE, Eibach springs, and rear SFBs on all 4 corners.
Ride gets a little choppy over really rough pavement, but the handling is far improved over a SARC equipped car (yes, I've driven a good SARC equipped SHO since I did this to mine) even with the snow tires. There's no perceptible body roll through on ramps, and I've yet to get the tires to howl, and it's not without trying.
Ride gets a little choppy over really rough pavement, but the handling is far improved over a SARC equipped car (yes, I've driven a good SARC equipped SHO since I did this to mine) even with the snow tires. There's no perceptible body roll through on ramps, and I've yet to get the tires to howl, and it's not without trying.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
It is very neutral up to about 80mph with 36lb in the front and 32lb in the rear. After that it develops minor understeer. I can induce the onset of understeer by playing with the pressures, but I seldom do these days, having gotten used to it the way it is. And yes, as noted above, the front sway bar is still stock.
Also, it is correct that you can get the rear to kick under the mentioned situation, but it is very controllable. If you want it out, feather a touch. If you want to hold it, give a bit of throttle. To recover it as it comes out, give more throttle. Gotta love coming out of the curves up throttled and winding.
With good rubber and a few mods, the SHO is a very nice handling machine.
pax, smn
luigisho
SHO Member
How much is the air suspension kit?
shadownos4...
Who did your air ride? What controller are you using for the set up? My only experience with air ride is a Ride Pro system on my 89 Fox Body. Great system! I take that back, my Expedition also has, well had, rear air bags from the factory. I ended up swapping that to coil springs.
Who did your air ride? What controller are you using for the set up? My only experience with air ride is a Ride Pro system on my 89 Fox Body. Great system! I take that back, my Expedition also has, well had, rear air bags from the factory. I ended up swapping that to coil springs.
bad_4dr_sho
Now what broke
Roush springs, 24MM front and 26MM rear sway bars. I originally used the KYB GR2 struts, but they felt like crap. It gave the car a really floaty feel through corners. So I put in the factory non Sarc motorcraft and it feels alot better.
