What's your suspension mods?
- Thread starter slowshow
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
just a quick question regarding this thread...can one "upgrade" to the pre 93 vented rear discs on the gen 3 without altering much?
Mr95Gl
Mr Tire Iron
You'll need pre-93 caliper brackets, and calipers to mount the vented rotors.
1995mtxsho
SHO Member
It requires the same parts 93-up.
Rotors
Backing Plates
Caliper Brackets
Calipers and Pads
Bearing Hub/Spindles
You may also want to take care and get a set of Backing Plates with good ABS Sensors as they will likely be destroyed trying to remove them.
Pre-93 Caliper Brackets will NOT bolt up to the 93-up Backing Plates, period.
The old Bearing Hub/Spindle is required because the pre-93 Caliper Bracket places the rotor 1/8" further outward.
Using 93-up Bearing Hub/Spindle will bind the rotor agains the bracket when the wheel is reinstalled.
Ask me how I know.
Rotors
Backing Plates
Caliper Brackets
Calipers and Pads
Bearing Hub/Spindles
You may also want to take care and get a set of Backing Plates with good ABS Sensors as they will likely be destroyed trying to remove them.
Pre-93 Caliper Brackets will NOT bolt up to the 93-up Backing Plates, period.
The old Bearing Hub/Spindle is required because the pre-93 Caliper Bracket places the rotor 1/8" further outward.
Using 93-up Bearing Hub/Spindle will bind the rotor agains the bracket when the wheel is reinstalled.
Ask me how I know.
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Pre-93 rear brakes are vented..might weigh more (more rotational mass=less power/acceleration) but offer more resistance to warped rotors like the solid disc rears are notorious for. Not worth the upgrade unless you do extensive tracking, autocrossing, or make frequent "standing" stops.
Plus, how can someone take a car's performance seriously with solid rears (example: 2010 SHO)...not saying all very powerful cars are upgraded... But if you do all that work, swapping some stock parts over seems very trivial.
My .02
Plus, how can someone take a car's performance seriously with solid rears (example: 2010 SHO)...not saying all very powerful cars are upgraded... But if you do all that work, swapping some stock parts over seems very trivial.
My .02
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
could be i'm using crap pads, cuz i've warped rotors on my 98 as well as my 95 with the 96+ upgrade. Anyone got some part numbers for good brake pads that'll not destroy things but'll stop real nice like.
It's not always crap pads that leave the deposits either. It can also come from sedate driving with little stress on the brakes.
Mine would usually start to wobble after a year or so but a trip to the track always cured it.
Mine would usually start to wobble after a year or so but a trip to the track always cured it.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
I have found the exact same thing as Paul on this topic.
pax, smn
pax, smn
So what about over torqing wheel lugs. I have heard some people say that by doing so can warp rotors as well. True or false?
My Expedition would warp rear rotors every 10K miles. It was after someone told me that that I was careful when torqing and attiment about telling shops not to over tighten. It has been nearly 10K again, but so far so good on the warping.
Still not sure how I feel about that one, because I also put ceramic pads the last time I bought new rotors...???
My Expedition would warp rear rotors every 10K miles. It was after someone told me that that I was careful when torqing and attiment about telling shops not to over tighten. It has been nearly 10K again, but so far so good on the warping.
Still not sure how I feel about that one, because I also put ceramic pads the last time I bought new rotors...???
Izzmo
SHO Enthusiast
I think most, if not every time, a rotor warps is because of excess heat making the metal malleable enough to "warp" or bend into a different shape. Correct me if I'm wrong.. but I don't think I am.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
You are correct, but I think Paul's point is that very often the throbbing feel you get in the brake pedal is not a warped rotor, but rather the accumulation of material, main from the pads, on the rotor. Hence, a number of very hard stops from good speed tends to clean off the material and the throb vanishes.
pax, smn
pax, smn
Izzmo
SHO Enthusiast
That much dust/brake pad crap accumlates between the rotor and pad?
I've never experienced this, but I guess it's possible.
I've never experienced this, but I guess it's possible.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
With gentle use, yes, it does. And, due to the way the brakes work by sweeping the surface, when they let up they live any pushed ahead material in small hill like accumulations. If the force for the next use is also light, there is a tendency for additional material to be deposited on the trailing side of the previous pile, and it all gets higher. Etc.
The solution is reasonably aggressive braking with some frequency, but most people have a pattern and keep to it, rather than varying, and if the pattern is toward gentle, the result is often this accumulation of material and throbbing brakes.
pax, smn
The solution is reasonably aggressive braking with some frequency, but most people have a pattern and keep to it, rather than varying, and if the pattern is toward gentle, the result is often this accumulation of material and throbbing brakes.
pax, smn
Izzmo
SHO Enthusiast
Interesting, I'll have to keep that in mind.
Well, all that may be true, but getting my 3 ton SUV out on open track days at Nashville Super Speedway to clear the rotors off is out of the question. There HAS ot be a better way to prevent that...
And slamming on the brakes has done nothing in the past except made me aware of brake fade...
And slamming on the brakes has done nothing in the past except made me aware of brake fade...
