what the ****?

[xshoel93x]

ok so ive got a major problem with my sho, its been awhile since ive posted here haha. i did a search and couldnt find anything like my problem so here goes.

93 sho auto, 128k on it. (get this out of here first haha)

tuesday morning i was going to work at about 540am est and my car stalled out on route one going about 60mph, was almost plowed into by a semi. i pulled over and tried to start the car, it would crank over but not start about 5 or 6 times. then on the way home it seemed like the car shifted from 4th to third then back to 4th, but it didnt buck and it wasnt rouch, it was smooth. then today after i dropped my son off at his moms house, i drove thru the center of town goin bout 30 and it shut off all on its own. i put it in neutral to see if id get anything and i got nothing, it was like the key was turned back (all the lights that come on when u turn key forward but dont start came on, and i had no power steering) i coasted into a parking lot and it took 4 tries to start the car.

now, whats been replaced on the car this year:
crank sensor, ignition box, tranny, water pump, timing chain, the electrical box in steering column (yesterday), and a bunch other stuff i forget unless i see the name.

i know one of my o2 sensors is starting to go bad, and i kno i need valve covers/gaskets and plugs/wires, but im told those would just make the car run like shit not randomly stall out.

since my family has had the car all work has been done ourselves, meaning me and my stepdad whose a senior master tech for ford and has had 3 of these cars. the only thing a shop itself has done was mount n balance a tire.

any ideas what is going on? the fuel pump does kick on for me when i start but sometimes for my stepdad it doesnt. its kinda unsafe for me and more importantly my nearly 5month old son to be in the car ya know.

sorry for such a long post but any help at all would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Phoenix]

It REALLY sounds like a faulty CCRM or fuel pump.

Pull the codes.

 

[xshoel93x]

i should also mention we replaced the fuel filter tuesday afternoon, as that was a a year n a half old

 

[xshoel93x]

stepdad said "there are no codes"

 

[Phoenix]

stepdad said "there are no codes"

Then post number 2 is in order.

Maybe someone else may want to chime in. A crank sensor and also do that but if you have 0 codes... I doupt it.

 

[xshoel93x]

crank sensor was replaced. ccrm or fuel pump... any way to tell which one without replacing one and having it still act up n be the other thing?

 

[TYSHO]

Phoenix is right, this sounds like a CCRM problem.

The next time this happens, pop the hood and bang the CCRM box with your frustration. If the relay is sticking, this will free it up and allow the power to be transferred to your fuel pump. The longer you have this problem, being if it is the CCRM, it will take longer to start the car and more banging required. With your symptoms, it should not take too much abuse to free up the relay, about 2-5 good whacks with a balled up fist.

Another test will be to disconnect the wires from the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk, then test those wires [only one will receive power] with a 12-volt tester light [cheap at an autostore]. If your CCRM is working properly, these wires will be receiving power, but only for 1 second if you position the key in the run position. Therefor, this testing requires a second person to check the light or turn the key. If you turn the key to the start position, engine turning, the power will be consistant, meaning the testing light should be illuminated the whole time during this process.

 

[xshoel93x]

god please let it be CCRM. 100bucks for ccrm or 180 for aftermarket fuel pump/440 for oem. i will try TYSHO's things when my stepdad gets home, i kno i have a tester light somewhere in the garage

 

[TYSHO]

I have a brand new CCRM's from Ford that will operate with your vehicle for $80 in my classified thread. I had this problem with my 93 ATX and replaced it will the same one, the problem was solved.


And, actually, the fuel pump is cheaper than you think from stock to high performance selections, with professional service and speedy shipping: www.autoperformanceengineering.com

Click on "applications" on the left side of the home page, then scroll down for the Taurus SHO application. These kits provide everything you need, not just a fuel pump by itself. Walbro is the OEM brand, also. You want the 155lph pump for a stock replacement.


Here's a feedback thread from this forum about this company, which has my experience with them inside [18hrs from ordering to arriving at my doorstep]: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=57999


If you ever have a problem with your SHO and need any other parts at the best price, send me a PM and I will be happy to help you out and direct you. I don't care about selling my own parts as much as helping SHO owners save money when they can to help keep these cars alive.

 

[hawkeye18]

Somebody has got to have a good used J code laying around somewhere.

Smacking the **** out of the CCRM is what I call an "Italian Conversation". We have relay cards in our test benches at work that we give the same treatment to.

 

[hawkeye18]

And, actually, the fuel pump is cheaper than you think from stock to high performance selections, with professional service and speedy shipping: www.autoperformanceengineering.com

If you do replace the fuel pump, be sure to cut the access hole in the rear seat. It takes about the same amount of time as dropping the tank the first time, but results in much less strain on your back, and any future fuel pump replacements will take - literally - 5 minutes.

 

[xshoel93x]

ill keep all this in mind and see what he wants to do, prolly end up replacing CCRM first

 

[TYSHO]

If you do replace the fuel pump, be sure to cut the access hole in the rear seat. It takes about the same amount of time as dropping the tank the first time, but results in much less strain on your back, and any future fuel pump replacements will take - literally - 5 minutes.

This also cost more money to purchase a door with a seal to keep the gas fumes out of your vehicle, or rig something up looking unprofessional. Have you seen those signs when you pump gas, the ones about how gas fumes are bad for your health? You can also search and read about structural integrity of the vehicle body when you cut out the sheet metal.

Dropping the tank is easy, save moneys, and is the safest option. All you do is remove two bolts and the tank drops down. It's as simple as cake. If I could go back, I would have never cut open my floor board. The smell is horrible. You might think the smell went away, but try to stop driving it for a week or two then hop back in there.

When you replace the fuel pump, it will be a long time before it needs changing again. So, be sure you read up on this modification before you dive right into it and cut it away. This is a last resort option in my opinion, if your bolts are rusted tight underneath. If you can break them off, you can replace the retaining clips and bolts for less than $10, still cheaper than cutting out the floor board without any risk. Be careful, you might WHACK that fuel line and create a spark with fumes. If you don't know what that does, youtube "gas station fire" and you'll see what sparks and static do with gas fumes...

 

[hawkeye18]

This also cost more money to purchase a door with a seal to keep the gas fumes out of your vehicle, or rig something up looking unprofessional. Have you seen those signs when you pump gas, the ones about how gas fumes are bad for your health? You can also search and read about structural integrity of the vehicle body when you cut out the sheet metal.

Dropping the tank is easy, save moneys, and is the safest option. All you do is remove two bolts and the tank drops down. It's as simple as cake. If I could go back, I would have never cut open my floor board. The smell is horrible. You might think the smell went away, but try to stop driving it for a week or two then hop back in there.

When you replace the fuel pump, it will be a long time before it needs changing again. So, be sure you read up on this modification before you dive right into it and cut it away. This is a last resort option in my opinion, if your bolts are rusted tight underneath. If you can break them off, you can replace the retaining clips and bolts for less than $10, still cheaper than cutting out the floor board without any risk. Be careful, you might WHACK that fuel line and create a spark with fumes. If you don't know what that does, youtube "gas station fire" and you'll see what sparks and static do with gas fumes...

Oh wow, where do I begin... ok, Protip #1: The gas tank is a self-sealed unit; if you're getting fumes in your car from the access door, you forgot to close the gas tank back up, or you did it wrong.

#2: Professional-looking cover? It's called the back seat. You'll never see it.

#3: If structural integrity was a big concern, they probably should've made it a little thicker than crumple-tastic 1/8".

#4: Dropping the tank is easy... if the car's been in Florida its whole life. In states where salt is used, getting those bolts out quickly becomes a monumental undertaking... and I hope you have some cobalt bits for drilling them out after you snap the heads on them. Obtw, they're $17 a piece.

#5: Continuation on 4... do you enjoy laying on your back under a car? I don't. My back doesn't, either.

#6: I've done 4 back seat doors on 4 cars. Never once have I smelled fuel in the cabin afterward. Even after having had them sit for weeks. You did something wrong.

#7: If you aren't mentally damaged and attempt to cut the access door with a 10" circular saw, then the risk of cutting fuel lines is actually incredibly low. Two words: Tin snips. Refer to #3.

#8: You really do take delight with disagreeing with everything, don't you? You must be the one person on the forum shouting doom and gloom for this procedure from the rooftops. Everybody else loves it.

 

[TYSHO]

Oh wow, where do I begin...

 

[hawkeye18]

Uhhh... touché?

 

[stangeater]

Oh wow, where do I begin... ok, Protip #1: The gas tank is a self-sealed unit; if you're getting fumes in your car from the access door, you forgot to close the gas tank back up, or you did it wrong.

#2: Professional-looking cover? It's called the back seat. You'll never see it.

#3: If structural integrity was a big concern, they probably should've made it a little thicker than crumple-tastic 1/8".

#4: Dropping the tank is easy... if the car's been in Florida its whole life. In states where salt is used, getting those bolts out quickly becomes a monumental undertaking... and I hope you have some cobalt bits for drilling them out after you snap the heads on them. Obtw, they're $17 a piece.

#5: Continuation on 4... do you enjoy laying on your back under a car? I don't. My back doesn't, either.

#6: I've done 4 back seat doors on 4 cars. Never once have I smelled fuel in the cabin afterward. Even after having had them sit for weeks. You did something wrong.

#7: If you aren't mentally damaged and attempt to cut the access door with a 10" circular saw, then the risk of cutting fuel lines is actually incredibly low. Two words: Tin snips. Refer to #3.

#8: You really do take delight with disagreeing with everything, don't you? You must be the one person on the forum shouting doom and gloom for this procedure from the rooftops. Everybody else loves it.

Completely agree with you!!!

 

[Jh8990]

Oh wow, where do I begin... ok, Protip #1: The gas tank is a self-sealed unit; if you're getting fumes in your car from the access door, you forgot to close the gas tank back up, or you did it wrong.

#2: Professional-looking cover? It's called the back seat. You'll never see it.

#3: If structural integrity was a big concern, they probably should've made it a little thicker than crumple-tastic 1/8".

#4: Dropping the tank is easy... if the car's been in Florida its whole life. In states where salt is used, getting those bolts out quickly becomes a monumental undertaking... and I hope you have some cobalt bits for drilling them out after you snap the heads on them. Obtw, they're $17 a piece.

#5: Continuation on 4... do you enjoy laying on your back under a car? I don't. My back doesn't, either.

#6: I've done 4 back seat doors on 4 cars. Never once have I smelled fuel in the cabin afterward. Even after having had them sit for weeks. You did something wrong.

#7: If you aren't mentally damaged and attempt to cut the access door with a 10" circular saw, then the risk of cutting fuel lines is actually incredibly low. Two words: Tin snips. Refer to #3.

#8: You really do take delight with disagreeing with everything, don't you? You must be the one person on the forum shouting doom and gloom for this procedure from the rooftops. Everybody else loves it.

 

[TYSHO]

Oh wow, where do I begin... ok, Protip #1: The gas tank is a self-sealed unit; if you're getting fumes in your car from the access door, you forgot to close the gas tank back up, or you did it wrong.

Nope. I've spent more hours working on SHO's than you ever will, so I know what I'm doing.

#2: Professional-looking cover? It's called the back seat. You'll never see it.

It's called a back seat for you, my SHO doesn't have a back seat. It's built to haul a** faster than your SHO will ever see. And yes, this is probably why my cabin receives vapors.

#3: If structural integrity was a big concern, they probably should've made it a little thicker than crumple-tastic 1/8".

If a member has children that ride in the back seat, it's not worth finding out if children will get crumpled from a massive side blow or rear end hit.

#4: Dropping the tank is easy... if the car's been in Florida its whole life. In states where salt is used, getting those bolts out quickly becomes a monumental undertaking... and I hope you have some cobalt bits for drilling them out after you snap the heads on them. Obtw, they're $17 a piece.

Actually, I've owned a SHO from Pennsylvania that the bolts were rusted on. I used a breaker bar with a socket, purposely breaking the heads off. I then slid the nut off with the remaining bolt from each side within a minute, due to the perfect design that Ford came up for this sole purpose. After that, I installed the replacement bolt/nut package that I purchased from the "help" section at my local autostore for $9.99.

If you drilled the bolt out, you either are a non-experienced tinker totter on vehicles, or you're flat out lying. It's easy to see how the clip slides off once the bolt head has snapped off.

#5: Continuation on 4... do you enjoy laying on your back under a car? I don't. My back doesn't, either.

I've never been lazy or one to complain about working. I even fall asleep laying on my back.

#6: I've done 4 back seat doors on 4 cars. Never once have I smelled fuel in the cabin afterward. Even after having had them sit for weeks. You did something wrong.

I applaud you on your work, but your assumption about my work is wrong.

#7: If you aren't mentally damaged and attempt to cut the access door with a 10" circular saw, then the risk of cutting fuel lines is actually incredibly low. Two words: Tin snips. Refer to #3.

I know the chances are low with a cut off wheel, but they exist. And yes, snips will work very well for this job but how many people have these sitting around, or a cut off wheel? We already know a lot of these SHO owners have very little money to just go out and buy tools, they barely have enough to buy the parts. Not everyone is like that, nor is everyone happy to spend extra money. Our economy is taking a hit and everyone would like to save money when they can.

#8: You really do take delight with disagreeing with everything, don't you? You must be the one person on the forum shouting doom and gloom for this procedure from the rooftops. Everybody else loves it.

No, I state facts. You just like to debate because you continually follow me around on this forum. It seems everytime I answer a question in this section of the forum, you reply right after agreeing with my post or start a debate. I have not seen any recent post anywhere else in help threads without anything other than you agreeing with what someone else has said, repeating anothers reply, or being an a**hole to someone else.

I'd appreciate it if you'd back off and quit accusing me of attacking you. Go drill out your fuel tank strap bolts, they're waiting for you....

 

[hawkeye18]

You just like to debate because you continually follow me around on this forum. It seems everytime I answer a question in this section of the forum, you reply right after agreeing with my post or start a debate. I have not seen any recent post anywhere else in help threads without anything other than you agreeing with what someone else has said, repeating anothers reply, or being an a**hole to someone else.

Actually I noticed that too. I'm not stalking you, it's just that every thread I go in to post a response, you've already been in. It's a lot of work tracking down what other members are doing; I rarely bother. It just seems we're the only two on tonight that post in any great quantity.

And being an ******* is part of my charm. You get used to it eventually.