What Else Can Cause Severe "Gear Lash"?

[JRA2000TL]

Should I replace the bushing since it's the white factory one still that's 22 years old? Is it difficult to do?

 

[jimtash]

Should I replace the bushing since it's the white factory one still that's 22 years old? Is it difficult to do?

I'd get the factory Ford bushing. Replace it by putting a piece of wood or something else under the clutch pedal that holds it up to the very top of its travel. That's what releases the tension on the cable. Then simply pull the cable out of the clutch fork and pull the entire cable assembly out of transmission bracket. Very easy to do.

Also I found out that the aftermarket clutch cable assemblies differ in length from the factory by being slightly longer. Something to consider because the extra length cannot be fully adjusted out.

 

[Lorenr]

Do Everything

I've followed this post and I suspect that you won't lick this thing until you:

1. Replace all four sub frame bushings.
2. Replace the rear motor mount.
3. Replace the clutch cable and bushing. Use the SHO Source bushing.
4. Replace all the front strut bushings. Use the polyurethane pieces from MOOG. Check and or replace all the rear bushings as well.
5. Check your shifter for play. Clutch is probably going south by now also.
6. Do all the routine maintenance as required.

Sounds as though the previous owner did nothing and waited for you to buy it. These cars are expensive and need proper care or they become a PITA. If you get in an accident with this thing in its present condition it will be way more expensive.

:swing:

 

[JRA2000TL]

I've followed this post and I suspect that you won't lick this thing until you:

1. Replace all four sub frame bushings.
2. Replace the rear motor mount.
3. Replace the clutch cable and bushing. Use the SHO Source bushing.
4. Replace all the front strut bushings. Use the polyurethane pieces from MOOG. Check and or replace all the rear bushings as well.
5. Check your shifter for play. Clutch is probably going south by now also.
6. Do all the routine maintenance as required.

Sounds as though the previous owner did nothing and waited for you to buy it. These cars are expensive and need proper care or they become a PITA. If you get in an accident with this thing in its present condition it will be way more expensive.

:swing:

I knew what I was getting into with this car. This is the 4th SHO I've owned. It was a $300 POS that I wanted to restore. The guy was going to send it to the junkyard if he didn't sell it. There wasn't anything hidden about it at all and I knew it needed everything. I'm just trying to pinpoint the problem without replacing stuff that may not be necessary at the moment.

The subframe bushings don't really look horrible. I'm replacing the rear motor mount. The strut bushings need to replaced (I know this; makes a rubbing sound when I turn the wheel). The clutch cable has been done within the last few years. I'll have to look at his paperwork to see when. The bushing on top of the trans does not look too bad. Routine maintenance thus far has included a front 60k (t-belt, water pump, front main, 2 front cam seals, CPS, and CID), front reinforced motor mount, thermostat, battery, alternator, top 60k currently being performed (valve cover gaskets, plugs, rear cam seal), and rod bearings.

 

[K-Dawg]

With the clutch engaged (pedal up), this bushing isn't gonig to affect a thing.

 

[jimtash]

With the clutch engaged (pedal up), this bushing isn't gonig to affect a thing.

But it will when you are relying on the tension that bushing creates in whole clutch mechanism to operate. Believe it or not, that bushing is the most important thing in relation to clutch operation. Without it, the rest of the system will not work as it should.

 

[SHOtime2511]

I think your issue if not rear motor mount related is probably strut rod or SFB related.