what could this be

[SuperHO]

replace the cam sensor.

 

[Amy Witty]

I thought the ccrm was on the drivers side right above the rad. If the rad was leaking and under pressure it may have been shooting coolant right onto it? How hot is the car running? Normal temps?

was creeping up to the "o" if i sat very long, fan kickin on/off, but driving steady was holding at or below 'm' but now that i got a new radiator, its steady even while sitting at 'm' where it should of been all along. radiator was leaking on the drivers, low plastic end tank had a crack, saw where the water was traveling, dont think it could of shot up there, but who knows. only code im throwin is 327 koeo but egr replaced already too. please can someone tell me where the cam sensor is located. thanks

 

[jmpSHO2nd]

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/CIDRemoval/CIDremoval.htm

If you stand in front of the car it's to the left and back of the motor.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Sorry I missed this thread.. lol Yes its timed right... I had to double check because the belt I got didnt have the 3.0 and 3.2 lines marked... Anyway.. I have a few things I'm going to toss at this thing next. She said it idles a little funny at times, so I'm planning on a IAC swap, putting on a new CID (cam sensor), sprayin out the MAF, pulling the intake and cleaning the small passages in there, and I'm thinking about running a few extra ground wires possibly.

Only other thing I can think of is possibly that DPFE sensor... I'm not too sure about those as I've always driven a non EGR SHO.. so its the last thing I'll suspect usually unless I get a code.

But everything should be dry as a bone under there... I was wondering if possibly a relay circuit is on its way out in that ccrm... I dunno.. I figure those are easy things for her to swap out later... I'm going to concentrate on the things that aren't easy to get at..

 

[slow92]

i had the same problem with mine when it was cold it would run fine and when it warmed up it quit changed the maf,cam and crank sensor it ended up being a small crack in the circuit board in the relay control module i replaced the relay control module and not a problem since

 

[sdpatt]

Reading this topic causes me to ask a couple of questions.

First, has the fuel pump operation been checked? You said it was replaced recently, but the symptoms sound too much like low or no fuel pressure. When the engine dies and won't restart, turn the ignition key to ON and listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run for 1.5 seconds. It should be a steady, high-pitched whine.

This sounds like a heat affected fuel pump:

"...it must be getting worse, because day before yesterday when it finally decided to die the first time, i had to wait almost 2 hours before it would take gas and let me go again, where as before i could wait 15 min or so, and take off."

Second, what exactly was the "O2 sensor code?" It could be indicative of a condition not caused by the sensor such as a lean condition from a vacuum leak. Was the engine running like this before the upper end service?

 

[Bob Gervais]

Reading this topic causes me to ask a couple of questions.

First, has the fuel pump operation been checked? You said it was replaced recently, but the symptoms sound too much like low or no fuel pressure. When the engine dies and won't restart, turn the ignition key to ON and listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run for 1.5 seconds. It should be a steady, high-pitched whine.

This sounds like a heat affected fuel pump:


Second, what exactly was the "O2 sensor code?" It could be indicative of a condition not caused by the sensor such as a lean condition from a vacuum leak. Was the engine running like this before the upper end service?

Scott, IIRC, in a different thread, Amy covered the topic of her failing Airtex fuel pump, and subsequent replacement with a Walbro unit. I'm pretty sure the Walbro solved the problem, which makes your diagnosis of a bad fuel pump correct.