what could this be

[Amy Witty]

so i get the leaky radiator fixed yesterday, new one installed. go pick it up this morning, work out some air bubbles, see no leaks anywhere, as before i was leaking water on the drivers side, and i figured all the previous dying was caused by water hitting a sensor, anyway, i get it home, let it sit for a while, running, and still after it sits for a while it dies, and dont want to start back up, just flutters out. what else could this be? any ideas? thanks

 

[jmpSHO2nd]

any codes??

 

[lowc]

will it start back up when it cools off?

 

[zach44102]

water pump leaking on cps?

 

[luigisho]

Was it running ok before it was parked and idling? See if there are any codes. Have you restarted it? What did EV replace last time?

 

[Amy Witty]

water pump has been replaced, only threw one code before and it had to do with the O2 sensors, but i have since replaced both of them. EV replaced water pump, O2 sensors, valve gaskets, and intake gaskets. Cant find any leaks at all now. radiator just replaced. it was running like crap yesterday, it does good for about an hour or so, then starts dying if i let off the gas. Then, it will try and start back up, and will for just a sec, but if u try and give it gas it continually dies. If i then let it sit for say a couple hours, it will start back up and carry me for a while longer. I thought it was the radiator leaking on a sensor, and after letting it sit and rest a while, it was drying out and letting me go again, but now, i know that cant be it, because even after replacing the leaky radiator, i still have the same problem. the heat hand is holding steady, and i see no drips. so i guess u could say that if u let it cool off it will start back up, even tho im really not over heating, but it is happening after the car is nice and toasty

 

[luigisho]

I wonder if the fuel pump or the crank sensor is on its way out? My crank sensor went out without water pump dripping on it. Can you pull codes and see what's in there?

 

[lowc]

some times the dieing crank sensor will not throw a code im thinkin the same two parts

 

[Amy Witty]

wow. i sure hope not, unless the cps was ruined in the past 3-4 weeks, because it too was another part EV replaced, (forgot to mention above) also, the fuel pump was replaced about 4 months ago. the guy that replaced my radiator said it was leaking on my computer system? could and/or would that be causing my grief? oh and yes, thanks to the forum, i learned how to pull the codes, needless to say, of course i am at my paying job right now, and couldnt drive it today, but maybe in the morning i can get them and see if its showing anything new.

 

[lowc]

in that case i would unplug the ccrm and check for corosion on the in side of the connector

 

[luigisho]

I thought he might have replaced the CPS.
Any other sensors replaced recently? MAF? AIB/AIC? Faulty ccrm would certainly make it run poorly.
How does it leak on the computer system? The CCRM is above the radiator. Have top think on this one.

 

[Amy Witty]

only sensors that i have replaced were the 2 o2 sensors, and the cps. I just got through looking at the ccrm, it looks clean and dry, & your right, there is no way the radiator leak should of been affecting it. this is quite a puzzle, when i first drive for a while, it does great, not missing or running bad, its only doing this after i have been driving for about an hour or so, in stop/go traffic..ect, but whatever is causing it, it must be getting worse, because day before yesterday when it finally decided to die the first time, i had to wait almost 2 hours before it would take gas and let me go again, where as before i could wait 15 min or so, and take off. plus on the interstate on the way home it started missing and thats also new. but right now, i could go out, start it up drive it for a while, and u still would think nothing is wrong, atleast for a little while.

 

[sperold]

I can remember a post by Rubydist that indicated, that when hot, the coils can break down.... and more alarming....a lot of the electronic components like crank position sensors can display this cold-good, hot-bad symptom as well.
You have to get it hot; and do the diagnoses then.
So a half hour drive out from your place, followed by your return run, is in order..... with your gifted mechanic waiting in your yard. Make sure you take your cell phone.

I have a feeling you are almost there, concerning the diagnosis of your troubles.

When bad times hit, a chain reaction occurs where one component takes out another, and you are almost at the end of repairing that chain (and it may involve changing something for the second time).

 

[SuperHO]

ya'll replace the cam sensor or the crank sensor?

 

[Wakeboy1337]

unplug the cam sensor and see how it runs.

 

[luigisho]

The CCRM could have a problem, I just didn't see how the radiator had anything to do with it. Did you have a chance to pull the codes?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Was the wires or timing belt touched? Maybe they did the timing wrong or did the wires wrong. Also there is a ground on the back of the intake that needs to be connected. There is also a hose that needs to be connected on the back of the intake.

The other thing I can think of is the DIS is on its way out.

 

[Amy Witty]

yes, replaced the crank sensor, the timing belt was changed, also new wires, didnt have a chance to pull codes yet, please tell me where & what is the dis? thanks for all the info! yall have a good one

 

[LOUDSHO92]

For the timing belt there are 2 different locations for 3.0 and 3.2 engines. If doe wrong it can throw off the timing. The DIS is on the end of the intake. It is the big gray module.

Some manuals have the wrong wring diagram so that can affect it as well.

 

[VortecGT]

I thought the ccrm was on the drivers side right above the rad. If the rad was leaking and under pressure it may have been shooting coolant right onto it? How hot is the car running? Normal temps?