Welded diff fail: TYSHO

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tompumped

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A while ago I had my diff welded by ty sho. I just want to give anyone a heads up that has had this service done by him.

I had a knocking noise that developed shortly after I finished my new clutch install and welded diff and I found out why. I think stainless pins were used and when mine was done he used to only weld 3/4 places. The one pin that didn't break held in the long pin if it had broke I would've broke my case without a doubt. All three welds were broke on the diff end and my trans case has a nice groove in it. The heat wasn't turned up enough the welds broke clean off. If the factory roll pins lasted 110 thousand and these lasted probably a week.

Since this was done I purchased a welder so I made brackets and welded four on. I made sure I penetrated the diff pins. I also bought two different types of roll pins and used what I thought was the stronger ones. Maybe someone has the same noise I had.



Sorry for the crappy pics, I was going to photograph the roll pin pieces, but didn't. They were a ***** to get out.

http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g396/tompumped/
 
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shoon

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:eek:

Good thing you caught it!
If you can afford it, get a wavetrac. I'm quite pleased with the one I have; plus it's one less PITA failure to have to worry about... almost like an insurance policy.
 

tompumped

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I have a spare trans that will get a wavetrac when I have the money. I'd like to add I didn't beat the car too bad. I probably beat it worse before all the work i've done to it.
 

firebat45

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If the factory roll pins lasted 110 thousand and these lasted 20 something is wrong.

I'm guessing 130k or so, given that statement.


Thanks for posting pics, interesting failure. Glad it didn't cause a ton of damage.
 

tompumped

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The other day I picked up the pieces of broken pins to throw out and you can just feel the weight of them and say wtf? I'm not trying to start shit, but come on? You'd think once you put them in your hand you'd realize they aren't anywhere near adequate to take the forces.

Especially in my case, because there was slight pitting on the two small shafts I took out. I wish I used my brain that day when he said stainless. Maybe then I didn't know it was weak and would be useless in this case. I hope the people that paid for the service read this. If I didn't have another car to drive it would've been a major problem.

If anyone reading this doesn't think they're capable you are probably more capable than you think. It's fairly easy and straightforward, get a welder and practice. Turn the friggin heat up also and get black spring steel roll pins. They seemed stronger than the ****** dorman roll pins I purchased.
 

Racer X

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So, this would be welded diff win?

28484_453207106977_581541977_5998656_5625777_n.jpg
 

St Louis SHO

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Welds don't hold to the pins. They are too hard to weld. If you did get them hot enough to weld the pin becomes brittle. My welded diff can still fail, but at least it'll save the trans case and not destroy anything else.
 

kevinspann

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However, a diff that hasn't had burnouts and/or an excessive amount of one wheel spinning (rain/snow) won't really fail. Mine had nearly 300k on it and the diff was okay...
 

frosho

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However, a diff that hasn't had burnouts and/or an excessive amount of one wheel spinning (rain/snow) won't really fail. Mine had nearly 300k on it and the diff was okay...

I was under the impression that it's the shock of suddenly gaining or loosing traction that shears the roll pins, not excessive spinning. Think about what would happen if you were to drive on a very low friction surface. You'd be spinning all the time, but there wouldn't be much of any load on the roll pins to cause them to sheer.

"It's not the snow that'll blow the diff, it's that unexpected patch of dry pavement."

^ I read something to that effect on here years ago, and it stuck with me (obviously).
 

St Louis SHO

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I'll make a post with pics soon. I'll show you first hand with pics what happens, and why. This thread makes me wanna do that now, but I dont have pics..
 

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