Violent Shutter, Stutter, Bucking, Crazy Tach, Then Dies

[Marccus]

When driving along the highway, I get a intermittent sudden loss of power, then the wheels "grab" again, tach goes crazy, pull of the highway, driving OK then car dies.

Last time I had this problem, a loose ground. The negative battery cable clamp was loose on the battery post.

But all my grounds are OK.

Ran codes and got #19, #48, #67.

Then ran KOEO test again, during the test I pulled the jumper to clear the continuous codes.

Then ran test after this and had no codes, everything ran fine, got codes 11.

Since there are no "hard" faults, doesn't this mean that there are no failures of any of the sensors.

Forget about #67!

I replaced CID, CKP about 6 months ago; recently replaced MAF.

I have not replaced DIS or PCM in a long time.

But #19 as a continuous code means CID failure.
and #48 as a continuous code means DIS failure.

So what gives, are the CID and the DIS bad and need to be replaced.

If so, how long can a limp along while I wait for them to be delivered to me (IF i have to replace them).

I want to avoid high shipping charges for two day or overnight delivery.

Thanks.

 

[Marccus]

Ooops!

'89 w/ about 445K

 

[Marccus]

Ooops again.

No CEL appeared when these things happened.

But I knew I had to run self test KOEO.

 

[projectSHO89]

Your symptoms are typical when the CID goes bad or has a bad connector.

Check for oil inside the cam sensor housing. If found, replace the cam seal.

 

[Marccus]

OK.

I just did plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets but didn't receive the new cam seals and valve cover plug well gaskets in time to install them when I did that work.

It looks crowded.

Can I get at the CID without removing anything?
If not what should I remove as a minimum.

Can I get the CID at a local auto parts store?

But the cam seal looks impossible to get at without removing some things that are in the way. I remembering doing it a long time ago.

I had to pierce it with a tiny drill bit by turning the drill bit by hand until it broke thru. Then I was able to draw the bit out. I forget if I did this with the drill bit still in or I used a pick.

I then pushed the new seal in using a special tool for that purpose. I think it was stated on this forum that you can use also use PVC pipe of a certain diameter to do this.

If oil is a problem, could I just clean the CID and the area around the CID to eliminate the problem until it pops up again or is the CID damaged so it won't work when contaminated with oil?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.