Upper 60K question

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mishman

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I just finished the upper 60k. The shims were fine and all the gaps were within tolerance. I put new gaskets in, plugs, and iginition wires. I also cleaned the intake manifold and ports. When I got it all back together and went to start it, it wanted to start but wouldn't turn over. When I gave it some gas it started for a moment and then died. Some white smoke was also coming out of the tailpipes. I pulled out a spark plug/wire to see if it was sparking and it was. The spark plug smelled like gasoline. There are no oil leaks in the spark plug wells or around the new valve cover gaskets. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem is?
 

Endri_SHO

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mishman said:
I just finished the upper 60k. The shims were fine and all the gaps were within tolerance. I put new gaskets in, plugs, and iginition wires. I also cleaned the intake manifold and ports. When I got it all back together and went to start it, it wanted to start but wouldn't turn over. When I gave it some gas it started for a moment and then died. Some white smoke was also coming out of the tailpipes. I pulled out a spark plug/wire to see if it was sparking and it was. The spark plug smelled like gasoline. There are no oil leaks in the spark plug wells or around the new valve cover gaskets. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem is?


the white smoke, that came out of the tailpipe it was beacuse you had oil in the plug wells, and second for the car dying you might have a disconected idle air vale IAC control or a TPS or a vacum line disconected of the manifold, or a vacum leak might be posible.. check everything, and if everything seems in place, your best bet is pulling codes if your CE light is flashing.. good luck
 
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CerberuS

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Re-look everything if its well connected.

If the car is gas flooded , floor the gas pedal while cranking (it will tell the computer to stop injecting fuel for a short while)
 

mishman

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all the wires are in the right spots. All of the spark plugs are sparking fine with the new wires, I took them out and checked. The car turned over for a second and then bogged down and died. It did this twice. The other times it just was on the verge of starting, as if it were winter time and the gas line were frozen. There was gas on the spark plugs so I think the injectors are working fine.
 

mishman

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I just started it and it ran for about a minute with an idle around 1200, a little high. After about a minute of consistant idle the check engine light came on and it started to stall out. Any ideas? Can I run the codes without being able to run the car for a few minutes? Is there a good thread or site on checking codes?
 

mishman

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It was the ground. The ground to the intake wasn't tightened all the way. I just took it for a drive and it was a little rough on the idle still but drove smoothly. Now its onto the timing belt and the front 60k. Thanks for your help guys.
 

93rev2sev

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Glad it was simmple...

I hate those simple little gremlins. Anyone ever burn through the bottom inside corner of a battery with the accy drive belt because they forgot to fully tighten down the battery tray?
I came real close to that when I did my first 60K. When I test started it, I was so happy it started the first try, blew a little smoke and purred like a kitten, that I took it for a spin. I popped the hood when I got back to double check for leaks and saw a notch was taken out of the plastic battery casing.

I needed a new battery anyway :thumb:
 

sdpatt

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You will probably want to reset the idle speed again. The easiest way to remove power from the EEC is with the "keep alive memory" lead to the negative terminal on the battery. There is a connector within about 6" from the battery on this lead. Just disconnect it to **** the power to the EEC while saving your climate control, clock and radio memory settings. Plug it back in, start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds without touching anything. Then over the next 40 seconds you can add the A/C, steering, headlights and if ATX, shift to drive.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Also double-check the main ground strap from the firewall to the intake and the two bolts securing the cross-over tube.
 

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