krewat
SHO Member
yeah, that! The 3-bar MAP in that picture is what I cleaned on my 2013. It was a sensor, before the throttle body. And it was DOYTY (I speak Brooklyn-ese).
Update Shudder/Hesitation issue
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Disconnect the sensors from the electrical connectors first. Then remove the sensors, probably need security bits to take off the screws. Spray liberally with MAF cleaner. Let air dry. Reinstall sensors, and reconnect to the electrical connectors.
John Miller
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10-4 will report back 
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John Miller
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No joy.
Both MAP sensors looked pretty clean, but I sprayed them down with sensor cleaner anyway. I even sprayed down the sensor in the top of the air filter box (MAF?) before replacing the filter.
The car continues to be smooth and fast .... with only this small issue.
I'm still leaning towards transmission related -- when the symptoms come up, the car immediately smooths if I give it just enough throttle to gear down to 5th. If I keep the car in 5th manually and try to simulate the problem under the same conditions, it won't do it.
I've been talking to Torrie. He says that whether the X4 will show trans PIDs depends on my car's strategy and not on the device. So, won't know unless I spend the $ and find out.
I also wonder if the characteristic can be tuned out. With a more responsive throttle, it might go away naturally. Torrie also said he could change the tune to make it downshift under less load -- allowing me to avoid the circumstances that produce this characteristic.
My pickle though: I don't want to tune and screw my power train warranty if this is a trans issue that will get worse.
I might just have to drive the car "as is" for a while and see if it gets worse.
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Both MAP sensors looked pretty clean, but I sprayed them down with sensor cleaner anyway. I even sprayed down the sensor in the top of the air filter box (MAF?) before replacing the filter.
The car continues to be smooth and fast .... with only this small issue.
I'm still leaning towards transmission related -- when the symptoms come up, the car immediately smooths if I give it just enough throttle to gear down to 5th. If I keep the car in 5th manually and try to simulate the problem under the same conditions, it won't do it.
I've been talking to Torrie. He says that whether the X4 will show trans PIDs depends on my car's strategy and not on the device. So, won't know unless I spend the $ and find out.
I also wonder if the characteristic can be tuned out. With a more responsive throttle, it might go away naturally. Torrie also said he could change the tune to make it downshift under less load -- allowing me to avoid the circumstances that produce this characteristic.
My pickle though: I don't want to tune and screw my power train warranty if this is a trans issue that will get worse.
I might just have to drive the car "as is" for a while and see if it gets worse.
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John Miller
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Coming from the Mustang world, to include mods, ghost issues, and fights with Ford, I think it a 50/50 shot whether a tune would affect a warranty fix of the trans. Not sure how this dealer would respond .... making Ford an even bigger crapshoot.
John Miller
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Anyone on here have access to Ford service records? I had a Carfax report before I bought the car (with 18k miles), but just curious whether there was any other service that didn't show.
If so, let me know and I'll PM the VIN ....
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If so, let me know and I'll PM the VIN ....
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rcryniak
Active Member
PM me
13blacksho
SHO Member
I'm not trying to be repetitive here, but I was having the same issues you are seeing to a tee!
I first cleaned out my CAC and it was better, but noticably still there and got bad again before to long.
I waited awhile and decided to go again.
I bought and gapped new plugs and jacked the drivers side up where the tires were off the ground and I got about 5 times the oil out that I did the first time! My car will not replicate this no matter how hard I try... If you do this I "guarantee" your issue will be gone.
Like I said not trying to push the issue but word for word I had EXACTLY what you are describing.
I first cleaned out my CAC and it was better, but noticably still there and got bad again before to long.
I waited awhile and decided to go again.
I bought and gapped new plugs and jacked the drivers side up where the tires were off the ground and I got about 5 times the oil out that I did the first time! My car will not replicate this no matter how hard I try... If you do this I "guarantee" your issue will be gone.
Like I said not trying to push the issue but word for word I had EXACTLY what you are describing.
My shudder issue is slightly different. My '11 SHO shudders at low speeds and at low rpm's under a moderate load. This has been occurring intermittently for the last month, typically shortly after accelerating slowly from a stop. Will occur when driving straight or around a turn. The first time I noticed it was from a stop and making a left turn. I was able to replicate the problem by putting the car in manual mode in 3rd gear driving up a hill, ~20-25 mph and RPM's around 1500. Although this put a load on the car, I don't sense the same load when driving from a stop. Car runs great when accelerating more aggressively and when the car is at higher RPM's (>2K). The car has 87K miles.
In reading this and other posts, I addressed the simple and likely causes. I replaced the spark plugs (originals looked fine), replaced the air filter, changed the transmission fluid, changed the PTU oil which appeared dark in color but otherwise normal, check codes and found none, and inspected the CV joints which visually appear to be fine. I also checked the CAC, jacking up the left side of the car, but did not find any oil when using the dipstick. I played around with it for a while to ensure it was at the bottom. The yellow portion of the dipstick stuck out about one inch black tube. I have been running 87 octane for the life of the car, and my next step will be to try premium. I had purchased a no-name brand of gas recently that is 15% ethanol. My last full tank was from BP.
Using my OBD-II scanner, I recorded values during the shudder issues (3rd gear simulations described above). I noticed the timing dropping to -3, and several other differences such as the evaporator vapor pressure climbing from negative values to 0.4-0.7 H2O. Also, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) climbed to the 30-45 ("HG) range, vs. being below 15. Absolute load value was also above 100%.
Tough to tell if it is an engine or drive train issue, however, transmission slipping is not a cause as the car was maintained in 3rd gear.
Any helpful thoughts would be appreciated.
In reading this and other posts, I addressed the simple and likely causes. I replaced the spark plugs (originals looked fine), replaced the air filter, changed the transmission fluid, changed the PTU oil which appeared dark in color but otherwise normal, check codes and found none, and inspected the CV joints which visually appear to be fine. I also checked the CAC, jacking up the left side of the car, but did not find any oil when using the dipstick. I played around with it for a while to ensure it was at the bottom. The yellow portion of the dipstick stuck out about one inch black tube. I have been running 87 octane for the life of the car, and my next step will be to try premium. I had purchased a no-name brand of gas recently that is 15% ethanol. My last full tank was from BP.
Using my OBD-II scanner, I recorded values during the shudder issues (3rd gear simulations described above). I noticed the timing dropping to -3, and several other differences such as the evaporator vapor pressure climbing from negative values to 0.4-0.7 H2O. Also, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) climbed to the 30-45 ("HG) range, vs. being below 15. Absolute load value was also above 100%.
Tough to tell if it is an engine or drive train issue, however, transmission slipping is not a cause as the car was maintained in 3rd gear.
Any helpful thoughts would be appreciated.
nw1143
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I would take it to the dealer and have them check the transmission fluid for metal. I did not think that my hesitation and shutter would be a drivetrain problem either and did all the trouble shooting options but it turns out my torque converter was slipping. fortunately I had a warranty and got it taken care of but I would have the torque converter looked at if I were you
Not sure if this TSB for valve body modification will fit the bill, but since you mention low speed issues:
6F50/6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLUGGISH ACCELERATION FROM 0-8 KM\H (0-5 MPH) FOLLOWED BY A HARSH BUMP OR A SLIP ON TAKE-OFF FOLLOWED BY A BUMP - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 4/15/2011
TSBID: 176597 Mfg Num: 11-12-10 Issue Date: 2011-12-19
6F50/6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLUGGISH ACCELERATION FROM 0-8 KM\H (0-5 MPH) FOLLOWED BY A HARSH BUMP OR A SLIP ON TAKE-OFF FOLLOWED BY A BUMP - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 4/15/2011
TSBID: 176597 Mfg Num: 11-12-10 Issue Date: 2011-12-19
Thanks for the insight. The transmission fluid was changed by a reputable transmission shop, and they indicated that the fluid looked fine ... just a little discolored. I did not discuss the shudder issue. I'll consider asking them for their opinion regarding the torque converter. Unfortunately my car is out of warranty.
Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
Interesting, has anyone drilled the hole yet, take one for the team?
Problem solved! Took it to the transmission shop yesterday. He originally did not suspect the torque converter as the problem was occurring between 20 & 30 mph, vs at higher speeds. He was able to replicate the shuddering, where no codes were found and the torque converter pressure was normal. However, he stated that he and his tech were 70-80% certain it was the converter. He recommended adding two bottles of Instant Shudder Fixx and if this fixed the problem then no further repairs would be recommended. I have attempted several times to replicate the shuddering and I could not. So appears to be the torque converter, but with an unusual condition.
Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
Forget rebuild find one used, much cheaper.....just a thought, also just replace tq converter if nothing else hurt cheaper then full rebuild.
Izzybird
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New to me '15 with 19,000 miles..
Came across this thread looking for others with my symptoms. Feels like a surging, but more like a converter locking and unlocking best I can describe. I can actually see the tach barely move back and forth. Any of you having the rpms fluctuate slightly? I've only noticed it cruising above 50 which feels about when I get converter lock up. I have Auto Enginuity I used for my trucks, soon as I get it updated I was going to hook it up and see if I can figure out what's going on. Car runs great other than the slight rpm fluctuation.
Came across this thread looking for others with my symptoms. Feels like a surging, but more like a converter locking and unlocking best I can describe. I can actually see the tach barely move back and forth. Any of you having the rpms fluctuate slightly? I've only noticed it cruising above 50 which feels about when I get converter lock up. I have Auto Enginuity I used for my trucks, soon as I get it updated I was going to hook it up and see if I can figure out what's going on. Car runs great other than the slight rpm fluctuation.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6022
This is a YT video referenced for the MKS that ended up having a TConv problem.
This is a YT video referenced for the MKS that ended up having a TConv problem.
Thanks much for the this info nw1143. I'm having the same issue and thought it was torque converter but then found all the other issues with the CAC and other random stuff so I wasn't sure. After watching your video I checked with FORSCAN and looked at converter desired slip vs. actual and it was fluctuating. Definitely converter. What was weird is that it showed 20 rpm desired while the problem was occuring. I always thought they locked up completely, but I guess not. Anyway, it would bounce from 0 to 150 down to zero then to 30 and so on randomly.
Do you know if they were able to just swap the converter or were there more things wrong with the transmission that had to be addressed? Mine's got a 140k miles so I may just have it rebuilt depending on $$$.
P.S. - I know this is an old thread but I thought nw1143 might have some relevant info. Please forgive me.
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