Update Shudder/Hesitation issue

[SHO311]

Some of you may remember me and my shudder issue I was having during the summer here in AZ, time for a update if anyone else is having this problem I don't want them to loose their mind like I did.
My car was having a light shudder under light load around 49MPH almost feels like a misfire as the
Ford Tech also said it was a misfire. 6 trips to the dealer 4 calls to corporate in MI and no one could tell me what was wrong. They tested every thing they could get to (coils, turbo seals, PCM flash, ect) car still would shudder under light load. Ford then took my cold air intake off and the shudder was a little less but still present. Then they said it was my 91 octane gas I was using so I switched to 87 and was instructed to drive 1000 miles so the car could adjust. WOW lol stay with me almost done. The shudder was still there after about 800 miles with 87 octane. I decided to check my inter cooler with my dip stick and found ALOT of gunk and black sludge. I keep reading online and found that the CAC and the gunk and condensation building up in the cooler was getting sucked into the engine. My fix was to drill a 1/16 hole in the bottom of the plastic part of the cooler on the passenger side. I then put 91 octane back in and my tune back on. After driving for about 5 days the shudder is 100% gone!! Don't listen to Ford go with your gut. The gas was not the problem as for my cold air intake I'm scared to put it back on the shudder is gone not sure if that affects the condensation problem or not.
Ecoboost and hot humid days are a really bad combination is what I've learned. Wondering about some upgrades to keep the condensation out. I've read that upgrading the intercooler didn't fix the shudder. Any ideas would be sweet! Thnks guys

 

[SHOdded]

Tho typically more of a problem for the F150s, the CAC has been a problem for the SHO now and again. This is a good reminder for all to routinely check the CAC, intake piping, etc for oil/gunk pooling and address it immediately should it occur.

YOu are the first I know of that has drilled a hole in the SHO's CAC, let us know how durable this fix is. Pretty popular "mod" in the F150 crowd.

I would also suggest using a low volatility engine oil like Amsoil Full Synthetic or Pennzoil Ultra Full Synthetic, to name a couple. Lower the volatility less the PCV has to combat/letthrough.

 

[SHO311]

Ya that's a good idea trying a new Synthetic!! I'm going to do that. Thanks for the feedback. SHOdded you have already helped me a lot in the past !

 

[SHOdded]

 

[ridered74]

I've had that happen with my car two or three times. Once it did it on a long road trip going mostly 50-55, it was really warm that day. I don't remember the weather the other day, but it was probably warm. I'll have to check my car tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[nw1143]

Hey guys,
Just bought a 2011 sho and I'm having the same issues as sho311. I checked for chafed knock sensor, replaced the plugs and have an appointment to get the ptu oil drained and replaced. I took the pipe off from the throttle body and checked with a dip stick and found about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of black liquid. Tried draining it and couldn't get all. Now down to about an 1/8 inch on the dip stick. I'm thinkin about poking a small hole in the intercooler just want to know the easiest way to get at it. Do I have to take the bumper off? Also when people refer to a shudder do they mean that it feels like the torque converter is slipping? It only happens between 35 and 45mph. On the highway the car runs great and even when accelerating up to 35 but then I get this shudder and when under a light acceleration I get this rpm fluctuation like sho311 mentioned. Just want to get this thing running the way it should.

 

[ridered74]

Best way I could describe what happened to mine was that I'd be going steady at 55 mph, then give it a tiny little bit more gas to accelerate, except instead of accelerating the car maintained the same speed and felt like there was a misfire. If I stomped on the gas pedal, it would accelerate like normal. I haven't drilled a hole yet, so even if your issue is similar to mine, I don't know that that would fix it. It's been a couple months since I've had it happen.

 

[nw1143]

I tried to post a video but it won't let me. The rpms bounce about 200-500 rpm on light acceleration but only in 3rd gear. Then I get a kind of studder and it feels like the torque converter kicking in and out. Kinda weird. But above 50 and below 30 the car performs perfectly.

 

[nw1143]

I uploaded the video to YouTube. Kinda poopy quality but you'll see what I'm talking about

 

[SHOdded]

Any codes set, nw1143? Possibly misfires due to spark plug or fuel injector. Check the intercooler for oil/fuel/water accumulation. But I would also check the PTU fluid level & condition to be on the safe side.

 

[nw1143]

Would there still be codes if there is no cel?
I just put brand new plugs in from livernoise. How do you check the injectors? and I tried draining the intercooler but I couldn't get all of it. Left about 1/8 on dipstick. I'm having ford change the ptu fluid soon.

 

[SHOdded]

Yes, there can be codes even without a CEL. The spatk plugs will smell of fuel, or even be wet with fuel. Otherwise I believe you have to pull the injectors and conduct a flow test. Monitor the intercooler while you await the PTU service. You can get more out by jacking up the driver side of the car so the crud collects on the passenger side.

 

[nw1143]

I have a code scanner so I'll check that. When I tried draining the intercooler I already jacked up the driver side and got as much out as possible. Would it throw a code for a bad injector? Also has anyone else drilled a hole in the cac? I feel like I'm having the same symptoms as SHO311. it's frustrating cuz when your beating the pants off the car it performs great but when you wanna just cruise around it fluctuates like the video shows and I get a studder like it can't decide if the torque converter should lock or not. i have to drive the car and don't wanna ruin anything so i gotta get this figured out soon. I'm thinking about doing the PTU fluid change myself (I'm pretty handy) so I don't have to wait. Do you fill it till it overflows?

 

[SHOdded]

There are codes for problems with the injector/injector circuit (for example P020x), but not necessarily for just a leaky injector.

I would drain & fill the trans fluid 3x while you are doing the PTU fluid. Each drain takes out about 5 quarts, so doing it 3x gives you a pretty good fluid swap (about 88%). The correct PTU max fill level is about 0.25" below the plug bottom.

From the Edge manual:

Using a tie strap, measure 44.5 mm (1.75 in) from the end and bend it at a 90-degree angle, measure from the end up to 38.1 mm (1.5 in) and place an index mark. Place it in the filler opening and check the fluid. The correct fluid level will be between the bottom of the dipstick and the 38.1 mm (1.5 in) maximum fill mark.

• Adjust the fluid level as necessary. Slowly add fluid in to the correct fill specification.

• Do not overfill the PTU. This will cause the fluid to be forced out of the unit.

Try running a quality fuel injector cleaner through the tank (e.g., Techron or BG 44K). That should clean up dirty/clogged injectors.

Clean the MAP sensors with MAF cleaner.

Check hoses for cracks, and hose clamps for tightness.

 

[nw1143]

Awesome thanks!!! Do I just use the factory recommended weight oil or is there something better available? Also what do you think about drilling a hole to drain the intercooler then plugging it? I'm having trouble getting all the fluid out and don't want to have to take the whole intercooler out to do so.

 

[SHOdded]

Use the factory recommended weight oils (in the owner's manual), 75w140 for PTU and 80W90 for RDU I think. Can definitely benefit from aftermarket brands like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc.

If you were to drill the intercooler and install a drain plug, you'd have to figure out how long this "fix" would last. I do know it's a popular mod over on the F150 forums. Probably find a helpful writeup or two over there.

 

[Daniel P Cummings]

I tried to post a video but it won't let me. The rpms bounce about 200-500 rpm on light acceleration but only in 3rd gear. Then I get a kind of studder and it feels like the torque converter kicking in and out. Kinda weird. But above 50 and below 30 the car performs perfectly.

Has anyone solved this problem having problem with mine

 

[SHOdded]

Apparently a failed torque converter in nw's case. Check the trans fluid, make sure it is free of debris and color looks good.

 

[92BlackGT]

I started getting similar symptoms when it got cold and i was running my 91 tune. Lightly accelerating in 6th it would feel like a miss. Then one day it got really bad so i hooked up torque to the obd reader. My LOR was 0.6 so my next fill up i threw in 2 gallons of E85. My LOR went back to -1.0 and i couldnt feel the hesitation/shudder anymore.
I have since gone back to my E20 tune and it has been nice and smooth ever since then. LOR pegged at -1.0

 

[John Miller]

So, bringing this thread back. I have recently bought a used 2015 non-PP SHO.

On the highway, if I accelerate lightly from 50-55 MPH, I feel what I think is a very slight miss. If I give the car enough throttle for it to gear down, there is no miss. Very much like what is described by Ridered74 above. The car otherwise runs great, and there is no difference whether using 87 or 93 octane. The miss is slight enough that I'm not even bothering to take to the dealer . . . I don't really want to hear "can't replicate the concern."

Anyway, I was searching online to see if there was an obvious solution, and found a couple other SHO posts about such "stuttering" Many, many from the F150 crowd, where the solution seems to be getting the CAC clean.

So, I started speculating whether this is what is causing my "miss." I checked the CAC in my car with my diptstick, and it showed about 1/2 inch of oil. The oil looked decent like moderately used oil, and it didn't have a sludge or black look. I tried to suck it out of the CAC with a 1/4 inch OD hose attached to a shop vac, but I couldn't get it to work.

Has anyone else tried the 1/16th inch hole in the CAC, ala the F150s? I'm reading varying opinions on whether this is a solution for SHOs. I'm also wondering if anyone tried drilling the hole, draining the crap out, and then simply plugging up with a self-tapping screw/bolt.