For what it's worth, here are a few random thoughts.
I bought a few of the Spec Stage 2 and 3 clutches in the group buy, and I think I have installed 2 Spec Stage 2, 2 Spec stage 3, 2 clutchmasters Stage 3, and about 10 stock clutches. Here are a few things to consider.
1) If you are using an aluminum flywheel, it needs to be resurfaced (blanchard grind) before you put it in. Brand new, they are not flat from the factory. I have seen this with SHOshop and Fidanza in EVERY one (about 5 so far). It is not a big deal to resurface before install, and it lets it break in much better. If you do not resurface, the flywheel wear surface has slight localized warpage, and it will cause the clutch to chatter and overheat. My personal opinion is it will never properly break in.
2) If you are using a Fidanza flywheel, the flywheel dowels are too long. They need to be ground down just a bit to let the pressure plate seat. If you don't grind down the dowel pins, the pressure plate is not mated to the flywheel and it will fail in short order. The easy way to check this (and I check it on ALL my installs now, is to dry fit test the pressure plate to the flywheel without a clutch disk. It should seat fully with no gaps. If it rides on the dowels, grind the dowel pins a bit. I thought this was just a Fidanza problem, but I have seen this with a SHOshop flywheel, and I have seen this with a Spec and a stock flywheel (I think the blue powdercoating can plug up the dowel holes??). In any case you need to dry fit the pressure plate to the flywheel or you are taking a chance. If you are worried about your install you did, you can pull the starter and try to put a feeler gauge between the flywheel and the pressure plate. Make sure you check all the way around the flywheel. You whould not be able to fit a feeler in between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
3) For some reason, the Spec TOB seems to fit loose on the quill sleave. EVERY Spec clutch I have installed has made a rattle with the car in neutral and the clutch out. As soon as you push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I have always blamed this on the TOB "rattling" on the quill sleave. Every Spec has done it, and although it sounds terrible, everyone has said it was ok. By the way, I got the same noise out of a ceramic SHOnut TOB with a Clutchmasters Stage 3. I live with this noise, but I wish it was not there.
4) Dantheman68's problem of the rivets hitting is a new one to me, although shomesomesho sounds like he had the same issue in a different thread. I wonder if the "too long" dowel pins would push the pressure plate far enough away to hit the bellhousing.
5) As for release point: the Spec seems to release really easy. As for release point, it seems similar on all cases to the stock clutches I have installed. If you follow the manual and block the clutch pedal, it seems to make the release point very high. I think this is actually correct, but most people are not used to a new clutch (compared to the worn out one that released at the floor). THere are ways to change the release point if it really is bothersome, but I just got used to the new location.
So is there a problem with Spec clutches in general? In Dantheman68 and shomesomesho's cases, it is a possibility. In the noise from the TOB, it seems common and may be an issue. Do we all show up with pitchforks and torches at Spec's doorstep? I don't think so. Dantheman68 might have a beef with Spec, and I hope they stand behind thier clutch and make right with him. Nkplus might have issues with the clutch too, but I have not been following his case as closely.
- Mike
