Tune Issues

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Recently installed GH ao tune with dp, did my plugs, thermostat, and 3 bar. Tune loaded with advance trac and collision warning off, started up and sounded super weird, had no power or shifts. Reflashed, worked, and was running normal. took it for a 10 mile drive to see if the shifts would smooth out. Got home, turned it off and back on, same thing happened. I repeated this process, the second time letting it idle when there were no lights, etc. Still did the same thing after everytime I tried to restart it. Flashed it back to stock no issue. Any idea what happened? I had codes p0106, p2196, p2198. Did I get the wrong map sensor? IMG 0311
IMG 0308
IMG 0312
 
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D7ad9b83648b7da8330468668b306274
If the one on before my throttle body is a 3 bar, is the distinction between a 2 bar and a 3 bar the square on the left side of the sensor?


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Recently installed GH ao tune with dp, did my plugs, thermostat, and 3 bar. Tune loaded with advance trac and collision warning off, started up and sounded super weird, had no power or shifts. Reflashed, worked, and was running normal. took it for a 10 mile drive to see if the shifts would smooth out. Got home, turned it off and back on, same thing happened. I repeated this process, the second time letting it idle when there were no lights, etc. Still did the same thing after everytime I tried to restart it. Flashed it back to stock no issue. Any idea what happened? I had codes p0106, p2196, p2198. Did I get the wrong map sensor? View attachment 96445
View attachment 96446
View attachment 96447
Im pretty sure this is a factory 2 bar sensor. You need the CX2594 from rock auto.
 
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The map sensor on the tube before the throttle body is a 2.5 bar map sensor. It can be used but it’s not a 3 bar map sensor. And you have to be specific about these things to your tuner.


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Life has got in the way for me haha. Hockey season is wrapping up, playoffs next weekend. I’ll post results in a few weeks when I get the time away from school.


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BradM

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Your original picture of the suspect "3 bar map sensor" doesn't look like an OEM part to me. The markings don't look right.
 

SM105K

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Following up, took me a bit longer than expected. Re uploaded the tune and put the new map sensor on. Drives like a charm. No more sputtering or hard shifting. Thank you all for the help!


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Good to hear.
 

ShatteredMJ

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While on this topic and after reading @Sleeper.Solutions86 comment I realize I may have messed up. I always thought the pre-throttle TIP sensor is a 3 bar. I have used it as a rescue sensor when my MAP sensor failed. Since then I’ve been using them interchangeably, new sensor goes to the manifold and old one to throttle inlet.

Now I realize this might be the source of some weird knock issues I get. Probably wrong TIP readings. Anyone know the correct part number for the TIP sensor?
 
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Continuing these issues. Shifting smoothed out over the next 100 miles. I’ve tried maybe 3-4 hard pulls from a standstill, none brake boosted. Twice I’ve missed 2nd, then shifted to 3rd and let off the throttle. One other time it grabbed, not on full throttle. Pretty bad shudder. I emailed Matt and he said to make sure I was half a qt above full of trans fluid at hot idle. I obliged and have yet to take off from a stand still, but from a roll it has gotten better, it will catch and shift hard but not shudder, or it will miss. Everything else shifts perfect. Should I try a fluid drain and fill? Trans parts wearing down? I’m at 120k, I’ve drained and filled the fluid 3 times since I got it at 96k. Changed at 100k, 105k, and 110k. No issues on the stock tune. Any input would be amazing.


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You will not be able to brake boost a GH tune to my knowledge from a roll. Because the brake threshold timer isn’t adjusted from the factory 3 second delay.


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