Bob Gervais
Wut?
Have you tried putting the old cooler back in? Was the old cooler changed for the new one because of this overheating?
Transmission Temperatures...
- Thread starter mrbamcclain
- Start date
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stephen newberg
SHO Member
In ambient temps of about 50F I would expect trans temps of about 140F or less, constant, if the engine is not being heavily loaded, just in normal driving. So even on your initial half of your run, you are high.
I think Paul has a valid point, even if you are not getting a code. Really seems like the TC is not locking up. Your RPM differential is not enough to indicate it is locking up correctly.
pax, smn
mrbamcclain
Member
I no longer have the older one. It wasn't changed because of the overheating, initially when I went in the shop I was told I had an inferior cooler, however it was noted that the cooler I had installed at the time was from the same shop. So in the end, I paid for the newer one since it was supposedly a better design.
mrbamcclain
Member
So, would you think this is a hardware problem or something tuning should be able to take care of?
I changed out the other TQ just a few days ago because of the high temps and the thought that it wasn't locking. I know it's possible to have a bad TQ off the shelf, but I would think that at least in the beginning it would lock up at least a little.
E1 v2
crash tested
What did the guys that worked on it say? You called them first, right? That's who I'd be looking to for answers.
Bob Gervais
Wut?
If we could start from square one, I think I'm confused (and it's probably just me not paying enough attention).
-We know that you didn't have this problem with the old cooler, so we can possibly rule that the new cooler is the issue.
-Was anything else done at the time of installation of the new cooler that would cause this? (new tune, other mods, etc)
If it were me, I'd take the new cooler out of the loop. Even if you had to run the lines to the stock setup in the radiator for testing purposes, that's what I'd do. Record your temps then.
I'd also switch back to the stock tune, at a separate time. Record temps then.
The important thing is to do one thing at a time so that you can isolate what the issue is.
Like Eric said, if it's at all possible, bring the car back to the place that did the service.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
I don't know. As Bob pointed out just above, I think we are getting into a problem with a number of fixes at once, and maybe more than one problem, so it is getting hard to know what is what. I agree that you need to get back to some sort of base case to go at one fix at a time.
pax, smn
It would be nice to know what kind of cooler it is. If it is the tube and fin type then it's garbage compared to the plate and fin or large end tank type.
My bet is they went from a 4 tube one to 6 tube one and neither are worth the scrap aluminum price IMHO.
Let me know if you want the best ATX cooler you can get for the G3. I have an extra.
My bet is they went from a 4 tube one to 6 tube one and neither are worth the scrap aluminum price IMHO.
Let me know if you want the best ATX cooler you can get for the G3. I have an extra.
stephen newberg
SHO Member
Who made the one you have, Paul?
pax, smn
pax, smn
Bob Gervais
Wut?
As Paul mentioned, get a Gen 2 ATX cooler. Take the radiator out of the loop.
mrbamcclain
Member
Ok. I haven't taken the cooler out of the equation yet, but I did return to stock and do 50 miles and the same stretch with a custom tune.
With the custom tune, I got no lock up at all and temps sky rocketed.
With stock tune I got lock up for about 30 miles and dropping temps then it unlocked snd temp started climbing again.
Should the input shaft and bushing have been chanded out with the new converter? What exactly are those parts and what do they do?
UPDATE: Something else I noticed last night. I flashed to stock again before I left the house with the car completely cold. Lock up stayed consistent right up until I hit the 140-145 degree temp. I tried the same thing again when I was to return home and it was the same result.
Why would it only start going crazy when it reaches operating temps?
With the custom tune, I got no lock up at all and temps sky rocketed.
With stock tune I got lock up for about 30 miles and dropping temps then it unlocked snd temp started climbing again.
Should the input shaft and bushing have been chanded out with the new converter? What exactly are those parts and what do they do?
UPDATE: Something else I noticed last night. I flashed to stock again before I left the house with the car completely cold. Lock up stayed consistent right up until I hit the 140-145 degree temp. I tried the same thing again when I was to return home and it was the same result.
Why would it only start going crazy when it reaches operating temps?
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Bob Gervais
Wut?
At this point, I think it's safe to say that there's something amiss with the converter that's going to be really hard to diagnose via the internet. I'd check about getting it back to Doug and see if he can figure out what's wrong with it.
bad_4dr_sho
Now what broke
I have to ask, and I'm sorry to jump off topic, But the 2nd Gen trans cooler would be superior to a B&M cooler, say 8"x20"3/4? I ask because I am planning on throwing in a aftermarket converter on my 2nd Gen as well, and If this is true, I'll just leave the stock cooler alone.
mrbamcclain
Member
Yes, I have after market digital gauges.
Ok, here's another question for you guys. Since I don't want to chance driving it out to ATL again with the temperature problems, I think I'm gonna have a new converter shipped to me and replaced to rule the converter out all together. I know now, it's not the tranny cooler. It's strictly with the TQ.
In my driving observations the last two days, as long as I behave nicely with the throttle the TQ will lock and stay that way. But if I get up to say 75 and go WOT after the TQ unlocks, it's not going to relock.
What other components inside the tranny control the lock up?
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