LMSRick
Livernois
Our car still has the stock intake, but does have Corsa exhaust. I don't recall if these numbers were with stock exhaust or Corsa though.
-Rick
Track Night...
- Thread starter RedCandySHO
- Start date
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Our car still has the stock intake, but does have Corsa exhaust. I don't recall if these numbers were with stock exhaust or Corsa though.
-Rick
EcoBrick Bob
SHO Member
Doesn't Darreli's SHO have the Hennessey Intake? They "claim" 30HP.. Since they are polished metal, they look good but would seem to heat sink a bit.
LMSRick
Livernois
Yes, he has the Hennessey and it definitely doesn't make 30 HP. We prefer to use the Airaid. It's more affordable, plastic, and makes the same power as the Hennessey from the testing we've done.
When he purchased it, there were no other options.
-Rick
Blackwire1217
New Member
So I finally had a little time to work on getting my scanner working again and was able to scan the dyno sheet. Obviously solid is stock and dotted is tuned.
P.S. The guy who ran it on the tune didnt get on it till like 3K which is why its low and jumps like that.
P.S. The guy who ran it on the tune didnt get on it till like 3K which is why its low and jumps like that.
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Mustang dynos tend to show much lower (possibly more realistic) numbers than Dynojet. Also, that sheet does not show whether those numbers are STD or SAE. SAE takes into account environmental factors such as temp, elevation and humidity. So those numbers tend to be more realistic as well, or at least better for comparison purposes.
In any case, a peak rwhp difference of 36 from stock to stage 4 seems pretty low. Was the car tuned with the "modified" intake? Changing the airflow characteristics of the intake can have a dramatic effect on how the MAF reads the intake air.
In any case, a peak rwhp difference of 36 from stock to stage 4 seems pretty low. Was the car tuned with the "modified" intake? Changing the airflow characteristics of the intake can have a dramatic effect on how the MAF reads the intake air.
Livernois Dynojet is load bearing....also these cars dont use a MAF so the intake shouldn't matter.
Those numbers do seem low..is that Stage 2 or 3? or is it 4? I know when my car was tuned the humidity was outrageous and it was like 100 degrees outside and I'm pretty sure my numbers were quite a bit higher than that. I'll try to find the copy of my sheet and compare and make comment.
Most important though is how it runs..not so much the numbers. I've ran much quicker than you with the same tune as well. Pretty sure it's not elevation there in Florida, maybe it is just the weather.
Most important though is how it runs..not so much the numbers. I've ran much quicker than you with the same tune as well. Pretty sure it's not elevation there in Florida, maybe it is just the weather.
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Blackwire1217
New Member
This dyno run was with the stage 4. When I got the tuner I went straight to stage 4 and haven't changed it sense. Aside from the numbers it does feel like it's running hard. It's was about 70 degrees during both the stock and tuned pulls which happened on the same dyno just a month apart.
Blackwire1217
New Member
EcoBrick Bob
SHO Member
Florida has humidity... and relatively warm evening temps.
Also, tracks may be prepared differently, especially on "test & tune" nights.
With my G8... I ran the best time on my last run, where there was no bleach bath for tires. With the Brick.. my first was the best at Immokalee. 65 deg on "Brick" nite.
G8 nite, it was 50 deg. vs about 60 when i started... Finally figured out I could do major burnouts w/o water/bleach bath, and getting the tires hot made worlds of difference. Obviously can't do that with SHO or Brick. Also... tire pressures make a big difference. But you have to play with them to find the sweet spot on a given nite/day. Or one could get a set of Hoosier road racing sticky tires all around!
Also, tracks may be prepared differently, especially on "test & tune" nights.
With my G8... I ran the best time on my last run, where there was no bleach bath for tires. With the Brick.. my first was the best at Immokalee. 65 deg on "Brick" nite.
G8 nite, it was 50 deg. vs about 60 when i started... Finally figured out I could do major burnouts w/o water/bleach bath, and getting the tires hot made worlds of difference. Obviously can't do that with SHO or Brick. Also... tire pressures make a big difference. But you have to play with them to find the sweet spot on a given nite/day. Or one could get a set of Hoosier road racing sticky tires all around!
Did not know that. What do they use in lieu of MAF for A/F?
It uses a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor instead. It reads manifold pressure and works with the ECM to determine mass air flow.
EcoBrick Bob
SHO Member
Hard to find.... G8 friend was engineer on bottom end of EB 3.5....
They tried 3.7 EB and they blew up after a 100 mi. Stroke too long!!!
Point is... EB engine is nearly bullet proof... if one doesn't affect the a/f ratio when boosting, or adding fuel. Remember-F-150 puts out similar HP and more torque... Those have bigger turbo's... but everything is relative.... Have to have effective cooling. Plenty of boost. And... plenty of fuel... Rest of components... Tranny, AWD ect... one has to fiddle with them to make them both last... and perform,
So far... IT's A... CRAP... SHOOT!
They tried 3.7 EB and they blew up after a 100 mi. Stroke too long!!!
Point is... EB engine is nearly bullet proof... if one doesn't affect the a/f ratio when boosting, or adding fuel. Remember-F-150 puts out similar HP and more torque... Those have bigger turbo's... but everything is relative.... Have to have effective cooling. Plenty of boost. And... plenty of fuel... Rest of components... Tranny, AWD ect... one has to fiddle with them to make them both last... and perform,
So far... IT's A... CRAP... SHOOT!
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