Thought my MFS switch went bad but....

[gatzby143]

Just my headlights started cutting out awhile back and the only way i could get anything to work was pull the high beam lever. It seemed that it was the MFS that went bad so i replaced it with a brand new one and my headlights are still cutting out. What could the problem be?
This car is really getting on my nerves, only has 80k on it and everythign goes wrong.

 

[SHOZ123]

Does the high beam indicator come on when you do this? Do the rest of the exterior lights work? Do you have daytime running lights?

When the flash to pass feature is used you are bypassing the lamp out circuitry.

 

[gatzby143]

The high beam indicator does come on, i think everything works but the headlights, parking lights and the fogs, and i dont use the drls.

 

[SHOZ123]

If you have DRLs, the the DRL module is the problem even if you do not use them. There is a way to bypass the module. Any Taurus that does not have the DRLs will have the bypass connector on the wire loom where the DRL connector should be.

 

[Bizzy]

I know you replaced the MFS itself, but did you also clean the contacts where that gets plugged in?

 

[gatzby143]

It has the autolamp feature if thats what you been by the DRL's, which in never use, but it doesnt have a true always on headlight DRL.
Also I didnt clean the contacts when I replaced the MFS. I didnt no I had too. Do you really think thats the problem because I am stumped here?
Thanx in advance

 

[qiksho]

same thing happened to me on my 89 SHO. I paid 100 bucks for that damn switch from ford!!!

Here's what happened on mine. When the switch went bad it shorted out the wiring leading up to the switch and melted the connectors. I had to go the junk yard and cut a big chunck of wiring out of another taurus and solder in. If I remember correctly the ford dealer was able to give me a wiring schematic of some sorts and I was able to test them with a multimeter.

 

[gatzby143]

Any ideas other than the wiring. I no am not mechanically inclined enough to fix that myself, or even check if thats it. Any other fixes I can try before I oay someone to ckeck the wiring for me?

 

[SHOZ123]

If they are flashing on and off and you are not using Daytime Running Lights it probably is the actual headlight switch.

 

[Rockledge]

Sounds like the symptons described in Recall 98S01. This is the Dealer Letter (edited for clarity):

May, 1998

To: All Ford and Lincoln-Mercury Dealers

Subject: Safety Recall 98S01 - 1993 and 1994 Taurus, Sable, Mark VIII, and Continental Headlamp Switch

AFFECTED VEHICLES
All 1993 and 1994 Taurus, Sable, Mark VIII and Continental vehicles produced from December 1, 1992 through September 30, 1993.

REASONS FOR RECALL
Over time some headlamp switches in the affected vehicles may develop excessive electrical
resistance as a result of inadequate swage between the bimetallic strip and the copper contact. The excessive electrical resistance may generate heat inside the switch causing the circuit breaker to cycle resulting in the headlamps flickering.

SERVICE ACTION
The owners will be requested to return the vehicle to their dealers to have the headlamp switch connectors inspected and headlamp switches replaced. Headlamp switch connectors will be replaced if they show signs of heat damage. On all affected vehicles equipped with Autolamp, the B3 terminal in the headlamp switch connector will be replaced.

QUESTIONS?
Claims Information: 1-800-423-8851
Other Recall Questions: 1-800-325-5621

Safety Recall 98S01
HEADLAMP SWITCH AND ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT

AFFECTED VEHICLES:
1993-1994 CONTINENTAL, MARK VIII, SABLE AND TAURUS

SECTION 1: HEADLAMP SWITCH REPLACEMENT

1. Install memory saver, then disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove knee bolster.
3. Remove headlamp switch ****, then the headlamp switch retaining nut.
4. Apply parking brake.
5. Position gearshift selector in First gear position.
6. Remove instrument panel cluster opening finish panel.
7. Remove and discard headlamp switch.
8.Inspect headlamp switch electrical connector for heat damage.

If the electrical connector exhibits obvious heat damage, it must be replaced. Obtain harness kit (part # F8DZ-11654-EA for non-autolamp and F8DZ-11654-DA for Taurus cars with autolamp) and
install harness connector according to the instructions below for autolamp, and Section 2 for non-autolamp cars of this attachment. If the electrical connector does not exhibit obvious heat damage, proceed to next step.

9. NOTE: Perform the following step only if the headlamp switch electrical connector is NOT
damaged.
10. On vehicle equipped with auto lamp option, remove terminal B3 from the headlamp switch
electrical connector. Cut terminal end off wire 13 mm (1/2 inch) from connector. Splice on new
wire with correct terminal end obtained from switch + B3 kit, F8DZ-11654-FA. Install terminal
into B3 terminal slot of connector.
11. Connect new headlamp switch to its electrical connector, then install headlamp switch.
12. Install instrument panel cluster opening finish panel.
13. Position gearshift selector in Park position and release parking brake.
14. Install headlamp switch retaining nut, then install the headlamp switch ****.
15. Install knee bolster.
16. Connect battery negative cable, then remove memory saver.
17. Check operation of headlamp switch.

SEXTION 2: HEADLAMP SWITCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT

TAURUS/SABLE (AUTO LAMP VEHICLES HARNESS KIT PART # F8DZ-11654-DA)

1. Remove headlamp switch connector from the wire harness by cutting the wires 1/2 inch (13
mm) from the connector. Discard the old connector.
2. Refer to the table below for wire color codes and splices to be used:
CIRCUIT--WIRE COLOR----GAUGE--WIRE LENGTH--SPLICE----SPLICE COLOR
15---Red/Yellow Stripe--14--------12"----E6EB-14488-BA---Blue
221--Orange/White Str---14--------16"----E6EB-14488-BA---Blue
195--Tan/White Stripe---20--------15"----E6EB-14488-AA---Red
14---Brown--------------20--------13"----E6EB-14488-AA---Red
38---Black/Orange Str---12--------14"----E6EB-14488-CA---Yellow
293--Orange/Red Stripe--20--------17"----E6EB-14488-AA---Red
231--Black/Yellow Str---20--------18"----E6EB-14488-AA---Red
484--Orange/Black Str---20--------19"----E6EB-14488-AA---Red
3.Strip wires 0.5 inch (7.6 mm), then insert each wire into correct crimp barrel.
4. Using Crimp Tool (AD-1522), crimp all wires.
5. Heat splice with heat gun until tubing shrinks and adhesive flows from each end.
6. Temporarily connect new headlamp switch and install ****.
7. Connect battery negative cable.
8. Check operation of headlights, marker lights, tail lights and instrument panel lights.
9. Disconnect battery negative cable.
10. Remove headlamp **** and disconnect headlamp switch.
11. Fold wiring back in an "S" onto the harness and wrap with electrical tape to allow the extra
wiring to be fitted into the instrument panel.
12. Install instrument panel cluster opening finish panel.
13. Position gearshift selector in Park position and release parking brake.
14. Install headlamp switch retaining nut, then install the headlamp switch ****.
15. Install knee bolster.
16. Connect battery negative cable, then remove memory saver.
17. Check operation of headlamp switch.

 

[gatzby143]

If thats it, is it still covered or is it to late to get that fixed for free? Also, to clear things up. They flash but only after the car has been on for awhile, so it seems something somwhere is gettinmg to hot.

 

[Rockledge]

gatzby143:
If thats it, is it still covered or is it to late to get that fixed for free?...

IIRC, I read over at the Taurus Car Club that the Recall ended a few years back...

 

[SHOZ123]

Pop the headlight switch out. I am sure you will find a burnt connetor and a melted switch.

 

[Racer X]

same thing happened to me on my 89 SHO. I paid 100 bucks for that damn switch from ford!!!

Here's what happened on mine. When the switch went bad it shorted out the wiring leading up to the switch and melted the connectors. I had to go the junk yard and cut a big chunck of wiring out of another taurus and solder in. If I remember correctly the ford dealer was able to give me a wiring schematic of some sorts and I was able to test them with a multimeter.

This is exactly what happened to my MFS on my 1992 SHO. Headlights (low beam) wouldn't work unless I fiddled with the high/ low beam switch, until the low beams finally stopped working. I bought a switch the next day, and when I pulled the connector, it was slightly melted. Nothing serious, but enough to warp the connecter slightly (it still fit properly and made proper contact). I'd pull that MFS again, and make sure that the connector is not melted. If it's good, then the next thing you'd want to investigate would be the headlight switch itself and it's connector and harness.

 

[93redATX]

I'd put money on it being the headlight switch itself, as the TSB posted above shows.