Thermostat problem?

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Anthony1238

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before I replaced my thermostat i idled around r and the M on the NORMAL guage now that i replaced the thermostat i am ideling around the O and the R ... I drove it for about 2 miles and while driving it stays between the R and them M.. why is it running hotter with the new thermostat iss that normail? :confused:
 

EHBOY

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did you put the right temp. thermostat in? I'm not too sure what's recommended. Also, its a longshot but maybe you have air trapped in your system. I have a Buick GN that would do the same thing... idle it would run hot but when driving was fine. Turned out, my water pump was on its way out! Can you hear any sound from the front of the engine that might be a waterpump on the way out?
 

masho95

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First what type of thermostat did you install? As posted in many other various posts the temp gauge is notoriously inaccurate. But if your temp readings are different then before it's a basis to judge the new ones. If you installed a new thermostat with a higher temp rating then the other one that would cause you to be running higher temps.
 

Anthony1238

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I installed a Stant 195 degree thermostat as I read to do so at Shotimes.com the waterpump is about 6 months old and never gave me trouble...if i have air in my system what is the easiest way to get it out?
 

HopefulSHO

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Sounds fine to me.
Any air should work itself out on it's own..did you get a thermostat with jiggle valves? (Two holes @ the top with small metal stoppers?)
 

Anthony1238

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actually i could not find a thermostat with the jiggle valve... i looked everywhere except for the dealership cuz i don't fell like payin 30 for a thermstat
 

Venom SHO s7

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yeah same here. i posted a question about the same thing on the forum.. but i also didnt feel like paying $30 for a thermostat... so i got the napa one which i thought would be fine. and it was.. i also changed the temp sending unit but it only ran normal for about 1 week before starting to run hot again
 

SHOZ123

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You don't need a jiggle valve to get all the air out of the coolant system. You need a sealed system with a working radiator cap. As the coolant heats it expands and the air is dissolved in the coolant. When the hot coolant expands and is purged to the overflow the air will become "undissolved". A few engine heat/cool cycles should work most of the air out.

You can drill a small hole in the t-stat if it does not have one if you want.
 

sdpatt

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The 3.0L SHO engine (MTX) was originally equipped with an 82C (179.6F) thermostat and the 3.2L SHO engine (ATX) was originally equipped with an 88C (190.4F) thermostat. That 195F Stant product will show a marginal increase over the OEM 88C 'stat (like you have seen), but would show a significant and unrecommended change compared to the 82C version.
 

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