FoSHO99
FO SHO
Hit a deer, then roll it...a good 2-3 times. Usually works.
The crazy stalling and shuttering ***Video*** well its fixed
- Thread starter ThatShoGuy
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
welcome2daSHO
Crowderhead
from what i see in the video check inside the steering column for any loose wires or anything loose in the engine bay, on some of the videos the whole dash cuts out and then starts back up just like when you start a car up the first time, notice the air bag light and other various lights that occur on start up, it happens here too.
look on the last video when the engine dies so does the speedometer, if the engine dies in a car the speedometer and everything else should keep working unless you have something not keeping the dash and everything, its probably a loose or melted harness and the only way to figure that out is to comb through the engine bay, steering column etc...have you checked inside of the steering column, might be something wrong with a wire in there telling the engine to shut down or something, it almost looks like more than one problem.
then not that im making this long enough but to check the fuel pressure would be a very good move, my mom had a bonneville that when idleing it would jump from like 1K then to 2K and then almost die then back up to 2K then level out, run right for a lil bit and then do it all over again, my dad took it to the dealership and they found out that it was the fuel pressure regulator, letting too much fuel in, then not enough, kinda looks like the same instance.
look on the last video when the engine dies so does the speedometer, if the engine dies in a car the speedometer and everything else should keep working unless you have something not keeping the dash and everything, its probably a loose or melted harness and the only way to figure that out is to comb through the engine bay, steering column etc...have you checked inside of the steering column, might be something wrong with a wire in there telling the engine to shut down or something, it almost looks like more than one problem.
then not that im making this long enough but to check the fuel pressure would be a very good move, my mom had a bonneville that when idleing it would jump from like 1K then to 2K and then almost die then back up to 2K then level out, run right for a lil bit and then do it all over again, my dad took it to the dealership and they found out that it was the fuel pressure regulator, letting too much fuel in, then not enough, kinda looks like the same instance.
NebraskaSHO
Harumph!
Somethings loose, your alternator, or a sensor is bad.
Those are my three guesses.
Those are my three guesses.
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
ok im gonna start to get mad people aint reading the whole thread when every thing shuts off the car is being (key off then on) because thats only only thing that makes the car run right again....
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
also how did you car have 350hp and do 207mph and not no more????
-Dusty
97 SHO, lowered Ford racing springs, 17" wheels, carbon fiber dash, custom molded front bumper, breakout box in the rear. used to have 350hp. and did 207mph, but not nemore.
-Dusty
97 SHO, lowered Ford racing springs, 17" wheels, carbon fiber dash, custom molded front bumper, breakout box in the rear. used to have 350hp. and did 207mph, but not nemore.
nothingtoseehere
SHO Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2001
- Messages
- 2,483
- Reaction score
- 1,192
On the way to carlisle, my car would run fine for a few miles, then begin to sputter. Slow down on the highway for traffic, it would die. You could feel a misfire, but I had just replaced a coil pack and the IAB. I was getting codes for the MAF and TPS. Replaced the TPS, still a problem. I could feel it start to go bad, throw the car in neutral, turn the key off, coast for a few seconds, turn the key on and put it in drive, would be ok for a few more miles. While in Carlisle, replaced another coil pack on a guess (8) and reset the computer, was fine after that. Developed another miss on cylinder 2, few weeks ago, went to put the brand new coil on cylinder 2 as it was the one always giving a problem, checked the sires and they had melted a bit. Insulated them. I have no miss and the car runs perfectly smooth now.
Last edited:
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
ok well mine is doing just about the same thing just replaced a few coils but nothing is melted i got the intake off right now making sure that no wires are melted.. none were....
but now there is no ses light on o nothing and its still stalling out.. just about the same as yours
so the only thing that you can say that could have fixed it was that ther was bad coils... mine are all good just replaced 2 of them and the others tested good
nothingtoseehere
SHO Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2001
- Messages
- 2,483
- Reaction score
- 1,192
IAB and reset the computer
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
whats IAB i pulled my intake like i was saying and checked the wires
noticed that the cuplures were all broken 4 of them got some replacement hose and working on putting it together
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
well 4 of the rubber cuplures were all broken replace them.. and it didnt fix anything not that i thought it would.... but thats all repaired.
here is another video of the car running like pooo
ONCE AGAIN THE KEY IS BEING TURNED ON AND OFF
http://youtube.com/watch?v=xTrem4Rt2lo
the more the car bogs the more gas pedal im giving it .. if i only push the gas pedal like 1-2mm down it will rev up higher..
i also noticed that it didnt really do it when i first started it up and the car was cold.. then once it was shut the car off and let it sit it started to act up...
here is another video of the car running like pooo
ONCE AGAIN THE KEY IS BEING TURNED ON AND OFF
http://youtube.com/watch?v=xTrem4Rt2lo
the more the car bogs the more gas pedal im giving it .. if i only push the gas pedal like 1-2mm down it will rev up higher..
i also noticed that it didnt really do it when i first started it up and the car was cold.. then once it was shut the car off and let it sit it started to act up...
When you turn the key off and on you are resetting the PCM. Then it will go to the hard coded cold start fuel tables. Once the PCM sees that the ECT is saying the engine is warm it will then go to the learned adaptive tables.
This is controlled by the O2s and the MAF.
If you don't have any codes that show up then it is a hardware fuel problem my best guess.
This is controlled by the O2s and the MAF.
If you don't have any codes that show up then it is a hardware fuel problem my best guess.
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
just earlyer today ray(midnightauto) said try to start the car when its running in drive when it starts to run bad.. and i did the car stalled right out and then i can remenber if it was b4 or after but i had a SES come on i know it wasnt on like 1 min b4 this all happen... im going to go get it scaned soon.. to find out what it is.. but right now i got one o2 replaced the mass air was replaced 3 years ago when it ran last time( its only been running for 2months) just put a motor in it... (ran fine till this last week or so) the pcm says reman on it (and i didnt replace it). the people b4 me owned this car for less time then me.. and i have only put like 10,000miles on it.
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
got the code got it scaned at the autozone
here is the code p1121
the guy told me it was some kind of dealer only thing were he couldnt tell me what it ment..
whats it mean
and i seen it say this code so i know its real..
DH15 CONTINUOUS MEMORY DTC P1121: TP SENSOR AND MAF SENSOR RATIONALITY CHECK
Continuous Memory DTC P1121 indicates the TP sensor is inconsistent with the MAF sensor.
Note: Throttle Position Sensor A (TP-A) is the same as Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.
Possible causes:
Damaged TP sensor.
TP sensor not seated properly (almost completely detached from throttle body).
Air leak between MAF sensor and throttle body.
Attempt to start engine.
Continuous Memory DTC P1121 indicates the TP sensor is inconsistent with the MAF sensor.
Note: Throttle Position Sensor A (TP-A) is the same as Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.
Possible causes:
Damaged TP sensor.
TP sensor not seated properly (almost completely detached from throttle body).
Air leak between MAF sensor and throttle body.
Attempt to start engine.
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
well like i was saying the maf is pretty new and clean looking i also cleaned it just to be sure and i just bought another tps yesterday.. so think this is related to my stalling???
maybe i didnt install my new tps right whats the r&r on it
just unscrew
pull old off
put new on
screw in
plug in
maybe i didnt install my new tps right whats the r&r on it
just unscrew
pull old off
put new on
screw in
plug in
Last edited:
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
this is the only code there is
like i was saying the MAF is pretty new got it brand new from fords 3 years ago (even thos the car was broken for like 2 1/2 years)
and also like i just said i just bought the tps yesterday because it pulled a code on that..
and then today this code show'd up
what would you do or try
how do you test the maf i know how to test a tps but not a sho tps.. do you gotta have a flow bench to test maf's
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
easy enough..
so if it dont run right then what???
cuz i think i did this yesterday but cant remenber i did so many diff things.
Similar threads
