mustngkilla511HP
New Member
Knock on wood? Shytttt! I don’t wanna push my luck on that haha
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Temporary Misfire and Pending Low Fuel Rail Pressure Code
- Thread starter Shadow351
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- fuel pressure hpfp misfire
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Knock on wood? Shytttt! I don’t wanna push my luck on that haha
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mustngkilla511HP
New Member
Sorry to butt in man, but that misfire feeling your talking about is what was going on the 93 tune I had from Diablo i1000…I know I know, it’s junk tune but that 91 tune runs smooth…and my mpg is at 28.3 on highway…I’m just looking for a killer plug in and up load tune…I did a few minor things but I also don’t want to spend 500 bucks or more on a tune when I’ll use it for a few hours and probably put back to stock settings…make sense fellas?
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No. Once you have a real tune you won't ever want to return to stock.
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
I dont feel it now. Was on my e30 tune and it was winter time. Nice weather and its fine. I dont want to go back to 93, my e30 tune is just so strong on factory hpfp
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Older post but relevant. I've been chasing a cylinder 2 misfire since I bought my car, really intermittent, always sets off the o2 sensor along with it. Had a purge valve solinoid code a couple months ago and a few more random misfires but they've been clearing up on their own lately.
Driving home today it goes to shaking and it's usual flashing cel, I pull over check codes and get fuel rail pressure low bank 1 along with cylinder 2 misfire and the o2 bank 1 and the smell of raw gas. Plug is less than 20k on that cylinder and looks fine, could it be a failing injector this whole time? Would a fuel dump drop the pressure that much? I went to limp the car home and it cleared up, came back a mile later, cleared up again and ran fine the last 12 miles home. Should I seafoam the fuel tank?
Driving home today it goes to shaking and it's usual flashing cel, I pull over check codes and get fuel rail pressure low bank 1 along with cylinder 2 misfire and the o2 bank 1 and the smell of raw gas. Plug is less than 20k on that cylinder and looks fine, could it be a failing injector this whole time? Would a fuel dump drop the pressure that much? I went to limp the car home and it cleared up, came back a mile later, cleared up again and ran fine the last 12 miles home. Should I seafoam the fuel tank?
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Here is the forscan data, I ran through it with my brother last night and we concluded its most likely a hung injector causing a rail inconsistency, I am replacing cylinder 2 injector since cylinder 2 has been problematic for a while to see if the problem continues. another factor to point out is I was watching my rail pressure for diag on the side of the road, I was getting about 140-180psi at idle jumping around that range, and with my foot at about quarter throttle it would come up and steady out around 250psi (park no load), I didnt get a chance to see it under load while misfiring. I would replace all 6 but since this threads creation the price on these has gone way up apparently as I spent over an hour searching for just one under $100 because im on a strict budget. motorcrafts were 9+ days out for about $115, dealer could have it in 5 days for $180, amazon had a full set for $130 with 1 star reviews so Im getting a Standard from O'Reilly's for $85, at least its a lifetime warranty. im still learning to read the data so I couldve missed something.
bosch should work just as well, i think they are oem but not 100%. lifetime also.
rockauto has decent prices on bosch and motorcraft. plus the 5% discount helps w tax.
standard should work but when it comes to parts that require WORK to get to, i maintain a narrow list of acceptables.
also plan on doing the o2s when you get a chance, no rush i dont think oil etc imho is a bigger opinion.
ah for the old days when a raw fuel smell was just an evap canister ...
rockauto has decent prices on bosch and motorcraft. plus the 5% discount helps w tax.
2013 FORD TAURUS 3.5L V6 Turbocharged Fuel Injector | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
also plan on doing the o2s when you get a chance, no rush i dont think oil etc imho is a bigger opinion.
ah for the old days when a raw fuel smell was just an evap canister ...
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I greatly appreciate the feedback, I too have a narrow list of mfgs that i trust but budget and time is forcing me to this option. bank 2 o2 sensor looks somewhat new, ofcourse bank 1 is in question but i will anticipate replacing them probably within the next year, the next 6 months I have the RDU PTU Trans and engine oil change along with a set of tires and now an injector so im hoping to get through to tax time to do the other injectors and the o2 sensors. I too miss the old days when raw gas was evap or better yet just running fat, I had a bronco that shot fireballs out the back, it was EFI bone stock but not right by any means, every date went home smelling like a service station but they loved the fireballs with the cap off, I dont have looks but I have gimmicks lol
Yepp
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
so far so good, I replaced the injector last night and its smoother, starts up faster (less cranking), has power through the range, and my studder around 1500rpm is all but gone completely. popped both o2 sensors on the way to work this morning but didnt change the performance so ill probably just replace those soon as recommended by @SHOdded I am cautiously optimistic that the problem as well as a few others has finally been resolved.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
@SHOdded when you said WORK I wasnt expecting 7 coolant hoses, 14 vacuum lines, and taking almost every intake pipe off. The easiest part was the fuel line but it wasnt bad, 3 hour job less a dinner break so 2 and a half but I miss the days of popping an injector like a spark plug lol.
How do the valves look and how many miles?
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
The car is sitting at 114k but honestly I didn't take a close look down the tubes. Now that you say that I'm kicking myself for not, circumstances what they were I was just trying to get it done before I lost daylight. I can say the intake side looked good as far as carbon goes, but there was a fair amount of oil in the charge pipe that raised my brow a bit.
clean out the intercooler after scoping it. you can use the oil dipstick to see how much crud is in there. you can raise the drive side of the vehicle some to all of it to pool on the passenger side before you clean it out. don't drill anything like people keep doing.
i assume you have already cleaned the throttle body.
How to drain your CAC (Intercooler) with out taking it out.
How to drain your CAC (Intercooler) with out taking it out.
www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Not yet, I added the catch can and changed to VTA in hopes of alleviating some of the oil pooling but when I do the service to the rdu and ptu I'll add tb and intercooler to the list. Definitely glad there is an alternative way to clean out the intercooler rather than drilling or removing. Thank you again for all of your help
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Here we go again, on the way to work cylinder 4 injector decided to exit the chat. Not even 2 months later and I'm going back under the intake, this time I'm doing the 5 remaining injectors. Budget and time still being an issue going with the standards again. Posting for 2 reasons, #1 @SHOdded you were right (not that I doubted that) i shouldve done all 6 and wouldve if not for the budget at the time. #2 anyone who goes down the injector rabit hole dont do what i did, just replace all of 6 injectors. My car is at 118k and they're failing one by one.
Inspect and clean the valves this time
The Ford gods are telling you something.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I will definitely be checking and cleaning valves, and not sure if it's the Ford gods or the car is just possessed and wants me to be divorced lol "honey, I need to spend another $600 on the car you don't like" I need a solid 6 months of no issues to get any credibility back for the car, she just bought me tires out of her mattress fund a month ago lolInspect and clean the valves this time
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Valves were checked, kinda black, but not caked I could see the shape of the valves, I hit them with some CRC tb cleaner and then some CRC valve cleaner and slapped it back together. Found out cylinder 4 was changed at some point, 5 and 6 were light brown and almost corroded looking, but now all are less than 2 months old and she pulls HARD. When I saw the rail pressure hit 18,000 I bout had a heart attack but realized it was in kPa lol. All stats are in range and other than an initial stumble at start up she's good to go again.
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