Temporary Misfire and Pending Low Fuel Rail Pressure Code

[Shadow351]

So I was stuck in traffic on my way home from work today and started getting a misfire/shake/flashing MIL/low power episode. Luckily, the car did not stall and leave me stranded in the middle of the roundabout and there really wasn't a good place to stop so I limped it along in traffic, but then the misfire cleared up, MIL went off and it ran great the rest of the drive home. I did not smell raw fuel or notice any smoke from the car, and there is no noticeable fuel smell on the dip-stick, however it only happened for a couple minutes.

I Pulled Pending Codes:
-P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low Bank 1
-P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
-P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

I dug through the freeze frame data (which was only available for the P0301) and it stated that the Fuel Rail Pressure was 132 PSI. Idling in my driveway fuel rail pressure reads ~230 PSI and brake torquing in gear I saw it get as high as ~700 PSI so the HPFP isn't completely dead. Has anyone experienced an 'intermittent' HPFP failure or do they tend to just call it quits? I don't know if the pump is original or not, replacement isn't in the service records I have for the car.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

So I was stuck in traffic on my way home from work today and started getting a misfire/shake/flashing MIL/low power episode. Luckily, the car did not stall and leave me stranded in the middle of the roundabout and there really wasn't a good place to stop so I limped it along in traffic, but then the misfire cleared up, MIL went off and it ran great the rest of the drive home. I did not smell raw fuel or notice any smoke from the car, and there is no noticeable fuel smell on the dip-stick, however it only happened for a couple minutes.

I Pulled Pending Codes:
-P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low Bank 1
-P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
-P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

I dug through the freeze frame data (which was only available for the P0301) and it stated that the Fuel Rail Pressure was 132 PSI. Idling in my driveway fuel rail pressure reads ~230 PSI and brake torquing in gear I saw it get as high as ~700 PSI so the HPFP isn't completely dead. Has anyone experienced an 'intermittent' HPFP failure or do they tend to just call it quits? I don't know if the pump is original or not, replacement isn't in the service records I have for the car.

Mine was low intermittently for a few weeks and eventually went to most of the time. Ended up being an injector issue with multiple stuck open. The list of causes are fuel pump module, fuel pump, or dirty/plugged supply (lines/filter). The diag test basically asks is there a code, is the pressure at idle above 100 psi, do a visual inspection, if no problems found replace HPFP.

 

[Shadow351]

I guess I will have to catch it while it is occurring. How did you determine it was injectors over the HPFP? Also, What's the going life for the OE HPFPs? How about the injectors?

I had injector issues a while ago. One time, after sitting all weekend, I noticed it started hard (like it almost hydra locked, then smoked/smelled of unburned fuel for a bit). I did an oil analysis and it showed excessive fuel dilution (2.3%). Car was around 240k (pretty sure the injectors were original), so I swapped the injectors for a used set (Wanted OEM but didn't want to pay $1700 for new OEM injectors). Found a set with 88k on them for $130. Installed them before the 245k OCI and at 250k fuel dilution was down to 0.5%. Pretty sure the HPFP is original.

 

[yaycandy]

Its worth replacing the fuel pump module. Easy to get to behind back seat and there has been quiet a few revisions. So if it aint been changed yet. Good idea to just replace it. Like 26$ on tasca.
The hpfp can weaken with age. Its cam driven so it get alot of run time. Worth replacing it also. If you can find a new one for cheap. If you plan on keeping the car long term. 250k, it did its job. Id replace it and keep original as a spare. They around 580$ iirc. Probably can find a low mile one for under 300$.

Module part number

GA8Z-9D370-A​

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I guess I will have to catch it while it is occurring. How did you determine it was injectors over the HPFP? Also, What's the going life for the OE HPFPs? How about the injectors?

I had injector issues a while ago. One time, after sitting all weekend, I noticed it started hard (like it almost hydra locked, then smoked/smelled of unburned fuel for a bit). I did an oil analysis and it showed excessive fuel dilution (2.3%). Car was around 240k (pretty sure the injectors were original), so I swapped the injectors for a used set (Wanted OEM but didn't want to pay $1700 for new OEM injectors). Found a set with 88k on them for $130. Installed them before the 245k OCI and at 250k fuel dilution was down to 0.5%. Pretty sure the HPFP is original.

I bought an XDI-35 and was attempting to install that when I began having issues. I replaced the module that @yaycandy mentioned. It is a quick easy job and the Dorman OE Fix replacement was under $40. I was still seeing pressure drop under load. It would match desired at idle and fall off even while brake torquing the car. I had a Hellcat pump in the car and replaced it with the stock original pump. I was still having some misfire. I decided to try having the injectors cleaned and flow tested. I used Injector Rx. They charge $25/injector and $9 shipping. He called and told me that 2 injectors had failed. I replaced them with Bosch injectors for $44/each. I let Injector Rx keep my injectors as payment for service.

 

[luigisho]

240k miles? Anything could be wrong at that point. Keep updating with what you find.

 

[SM105K]

I remember Matt saying that low fuel pressure is a main culprit of hanging injectors.

 

[Shadow351]

Haven't had an issue since the 9th, so ill just monitor for now.

I bought an XDI-35 and was attempting to install that when I began having issues. I replaced the module that @yaycandy mentioned. It is a quick easy job and the Dorman OE Fix replacement was under $40. I was still seeing pressure drop under load. It would match desired at idle and fall off even while brake torquing the car. I had a Hellcat pump in the car and replaced it with the stock original pump. I was still having some misfire. I decided to try having the injectors cleaned and flow tested. I used Injector Rx. They charge $25/injector and $9 shipping. He called and told me that 2 injectors had failed. I replaced them with Bosch injectors for $44/each. I let Injector Rx keep my injectors as payment for service.

Hmm, the injector RX thing sounds interesting. I should still have my original injectors around somewhere, maybe I can ship those out to be checked/cleaned. My garage is currently full with a 2014 Silverado that ate its own oil pump (timing chain tensioner failed and ground a hole through the pressure control section of the pump) so can't do anything with the car right now anyway.

240k miles? Anything could be wrong at that point. Keep updating with what you find.

The car is actually up to 262k now, I just noticed that signatures aren't being displayed.

 

[yaycandy]

I just got a new module in the mail today from tasca and will be installing it. Its cheap and i havent done it yet. I dont think its my issue, sounds crazy but i think its my AD Mounts. I need to grease them and check the torque on them. I just slapped them on quick when i did the ptu

 

[BradM]

yaycandy- Have you installed the new module?

 

[yaycandy]

Yea. Just pull your seat forward and its right there. I think theys 10mm. My back seat is a little different. It didnt make a difference, I remembered i changed it out over covid. New one and one already installed had same numbers. I still put the new one in. I want to grease and check the torque on the ad mounts and the driveshaft. Since having it off for ptu swap. Might be adding in not need vibration. Also thinking it may be the msd coils also

 

[Shadow351]

My misfire hasn't returned in the last month. I did look into replacing the FPDM, I checked Tasca, but they don't list a FPDM for my car. I even looked up what the part number should be (GA8Z-9D370-A is what I found, can anyone confirm this is the part for a 2010 SHO?) but Tasca's site says "This part does not fit your 2010 Ford Taurus".

 

[BradM]

Just adding my two cents. If your AD mounts are setting off your knock sensors, you've got a bad sensor. If knock sensors were normally this sensitive, they be set off on bumpy roads. The manufacture will tell you that adding zerk fittings to their mounts is pointless but they will add them if you want.

 

[yaycandy]

Just adding my two cents. If your AD mounts are setting off your knock sensors, you've got a bad sensor. If knock sensors were normally this sensitive, they be set off on bumpy roads. The manufacture will tell you that adding zerk fittings to their mounts is pointless but they will add them if you want.

Thats why i think it could be the coils. I only get it when in 6th gear low speed and slight incline. Usually when a manual car starts feeling like its miss firing a bit in high gear low speed with foot to floor it means the spark plug wires are bad and thats what it feels like

 

[Ta2dResqr]

My misfire hasn't returned in the last month. I did look into replacing the FPDM, I checked Tasca, but they don't list a FPDM for my car. I even looked up what the part number should be (GA8Z-9D370-A is what I found, can anyone confirm this is the part for a 2010 SHO?) but Tasca's site says "This part does not fit your 2010 Ford Taurus".

8U5Z9345B, 8U5Z9345C, 8U5Z9345D, AA8Z9345A, AA8Z9D370A, AA8Z9D370B, AA8Z9D370D are the numbers over the years for 2010-2019. The Dorman OE FIX part covers all of them with 1 module.

 

[kryptto]

Its worth replacing the fuel pump module. Easy to get to behind back seat and there has been quiet a few revisions. So if it aint been changed yet. Good idea to just replace it. Like 26$ on tasca.
The hpfp can weaken with age. Its cam driven so it get alot of run time. Worth replacing it also. If you can find a new one for cheap. If you plan on keeping the car long term. 250k, it did its job. Id replace it and keep original as a spare. They around 580$ iirc. Probably can find a low mile one for under 300$.

Module part number

GA8Z-9D370-A​

I 100% agree with this post from yaycandy - the 2010 -2013 had, if I recall on the relay - and it can be problematic. Its an easy rip and replace from passenger side rear seat - and can be hugely problematic. I replaced mine on my '14 as a preventative.

 

[mustngkilla511HP]

240k miles? Anything could be wrong at that point. Keep updating with what you find.

Dude if you don’t hold it to the floor around every corner and use excellent maintenance practices these 3.5s will run well past 350k…remember gentlemen Ford put these engines through Brutal **** and these are kick ass tough motors..and the turbo failure is a myth…everything has a failing point..it’s usually the people that WISH THEY HAD A SHO that are the ones that spread FAKE NEWS LIKE CNN because they wish they had one but can’t afford 1! FACTS!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Shadow351]

I mean the turbos do fail. My first one went at around 220k and the second at about 250k

 

[mustngkilla511HP]

I mean the turbos do fail. My first one went at around 220k and the second at about 250k

As I stated, EVERYTHING HAS ITS FAILING POINT. But what I have been finding out is a continuing trend non-SHO owners are always trying to tell SH0 owners that the turbos always fail and then go on to say how the 3.5 is a junk motor. I got 193k on mine and stills runs fantastic and doesn’t burn,leak no oil…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FREAK_SHO]

As I stated, EVERYTHING HAS ITS FAILING POINT. But what I have been finding out is a continuing trend non-SHO owners are always trying to tell SH0 owners that the turbos always fail and then go on to say how the 3.5 is a junk motor. I got 193k on mine and stills runs fantastic and doesn’t burn,leak no oil…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Knock wood