Tell me this isn't "fatal"
- Thread starter Eric VerValin
- Start date
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Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
ball joint huh? like on the LCA's ? yea mine are toast.. waiting to do the front end stuff yet. But I'll definately have to check into that diff pin going thing. Its supposed to be rainy for a few days, but I'll get her open and check. Would like to get it towed to my friends tho and get a better look indoors. Thanks for the detective work my friend.
ilikepoultry
6th motor SHO
i'd just say pull the trans and take a look
my trans fluid has never come out black
it comes out dark, on occasion, but never black
even my red, which had a crap clutch and not the best condition trans was red fluid and the previous owner had never replaced the fluid
i wouldn't trust a mechanic that says that's "normal wear"
my trans fluid has never come out black
it comes out dark, on occasion, but never black
even my red, which had a crap clutch and not the best condition trans was red fluid and the previous owner had never replaced the fluid
i wouldn't trust a mechanic that says that's "normal wear"
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
LoL.. well he's a friend, and I'm always skeptical of him anyway.. But yes I think I'm going to have to find a way to drag it over to a friends house to take a look. Awful rainy outside here latley, and for a while it looks like.
I know in the 80k I've had it for, I've never changed it. I assumed with it being a dealer owned car before me, they would have changed it at I don't know, 60k? 90 maybe? I don't know their 'schedule' maybe they sold it before all that was to take place. But I know my valves were pretty close for as long as they went without adjustment when I had it. After the new seats, they were all very very close. But someone did something with it. The fill plug was a little chewed before I got to it. I don't know. Reguardless, seems like I'm going to pull a tranny.. Gotta get some wood for that support thing.. might make that up tonight.
Grrrr @ taking this damn thing all the way apart again.. oh well.. maybe I'll get a job @ Ford if I show em how fast I can do it.. practice makes perfect right? lol
But yes I think I'm going to have to find a way to drag it over to a friends house to take a look. Awful rainy outside here latley, and for a while it looks like.I know in the 80k I've had it for, I've never changed it. I assumed with it being a dealer owned car before me, they would have changed it at I don't know, 60k? 90 maybe? I don't know their 'schedule' maybe they sold it before all that was to take place. But I know my valves were pretty close for as long as they went without adjustment when I had it. After the new seats, they were all very very close. But someone did something with it. The fill plug was a little chewed before I got to it. I don't know. Reguardless, seems like I'm going to pull a tranny..
Gotta get some wood for that support thing.. might make that up tonight. Grrrr @ taking this damn thing all the way apart again.. oh well.. maybe I'll get a job @ Ford if I show em how fast I can do it.. practice makes perfect right? lol
ilikepoultry
6th motor SHO
i have learned never to trust a dealership, after working at one
there's stuff they say they do that they don't
and there's stuff they're supposed to do and don't
then there's stuff they'd never need to do and they do it
and for the wood - i bought a 4X4 at menard's for around $8 - it was eight feet long (needed a trim) but it worked well.... warpage doesn't really matter... just make sure there's no major cracks in it
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Oh yea.. that mechanic is a friend by the way.. lol I would never take the sho to the dealer.. lol But I still don't trust him that much.. Maybe with my truck, but not my sho..
And with the support thing.. at work / the jobsite, there's a lot of scrap steel laying around. I've been trying to get enough peices long enough, and have some of the welders tack a few angles together, and make a boxed frame deal.. I dunno, too busy with running pipe latley. Glad I'm not a drywaller, I guess they were upset because they had to cut 40 holes.
It was also time consuming getting this retard outta the mud. Why he tried to drive it thru there, we will never know. I swear he's still back in the 70's.
Good thing we had that big excavator around, because I wasn't getting muddy. Anyway, if the rain lets up, I might get it out by the weekend, crack it in 1/2 and let you guys decide on the outcome of this tranny.
And with the support thing.. at work / the jobsite, there's a lot of scrap steel laying around. I've been trying to get enough peices long enough, and have some of the welders tack a few angles together, and make a boxed frame deal.. I dunno, too busy with running pipe latley. Glad I'm not a drywaller, I guess they were upset because they had to cut 40 holes.
It was also time consuming getting this retard outta the mud. Why he tried to drive it thru there, we will never know. I swear he's still back in the 70's.
Good thing we had that big excavator around, because I wasn't getting muddy. Anyway, if the rain lets up, I might get it out by the weekend, crack it in 1/2 and let you guys decide on the outcome of this tranny.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Oh yea.. that mechanic is a friend by the way.. lol I would never take the sho to the dealer.. lol But I still don't trust him that much.. Maybe with my truck, but not my sho..
Actually, Dimansion Ford West is one of the few Ford dealers I would trust to work on my SHO - provided that I could get a guarantee from the shop manager that Chuck (Sho-N-Go) would be working on it. And given the guys in parts lookout their shop-service window at the service-bay - I'd know if they didn't - and there would be **** to pay . . . .
Eric VerValin said:And with the support thing.. at work / the jobsite, there's a lot of scrap steel laying around. I've been trying to get enough peices long enough, and have some of the welders tack a few angles together, and make a boxed frame deal.. I dunno, too busy with running pipe latley. Glad I'm not a drywaller, I guess they were upset because they had to cut 40 holes.
Now, if this did materialize,... and if someone had a second such device,... I know someone to whom it might be worth at least a few beers to
Eric VerValin said:
I see it here all the time. We refer to it as, "the Bubba-factor...." (not to be confused with the "O'Reilly factor")
Fictionary.com Unabridged (v -1.0) - Cite This Source
bub·ba fac·tor (P) [buhb-uh] [fak-ter] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation
-noun
1. Chiefly Southern U.S. the indescriminate use of brute force in place of common sense.
2. slang. a term describing irrational decision-making by uneducated southern white males.
[Origin: 1860-65 ]
-Synonyms 1. stupidity.
-Antonyms 1. discernment, reasoning, aptitude.
1. Chiefly Southern U.S. the indescriminate use of brute force in place of common sense.
2. slang. a term describing irrational decision-making by uneducated southern white males.
[Origin: 1860-65 ]
-Synonyms 1. stupidity.
-Antonyms 1. discernment, reasoning, aptitude.
Dictionary.com
I realize this is not restricted to any one region of the U.S. Just poking a little fun . . . .
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Man I just seen it today, the shifter linkage on that buggy is broke.. somehow he broke it trying to force it in reverse. Let's just say that he offically 'made the list' today.
Anyway, I wanna get this thing dragged down to my friends garage where I can work on it outta the elements. Might as well pull my dash too and get the heater core done, I think I'm going to put this car up for a little bit, and finally once and for all fix the rest of it.
Anyway, I wanna get this thing dragged down to my friends garage where I can work on it outta the elements. Might as well pull my dash too and get the heater core done, I think I'm going to put this car up for a little bit, and finally once and for all fix the rest of it.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Well, I could pass through there Monday, on the way up to Detroit . . . .
. . . but if it isn't out, . . . .
get the tranny out first, then if the case has to be split you can start on the core while the tranny is being done.
. . . but if it isn't out, . . . .
get the tranny out first, then if the case has to be split you can start on the core while the tranny is being done.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Well there's no other way to diagnose the problem is there? I gotta crack it open to see. Or just let Bizzy have it and see what she thinks.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
That noise is not first order. What I mean is, it's not the same frequency as the engine RPM. I think you can eliminate everything north of the input shaft(input shaft bearings, flywheel assy). I would guess that the noise is coming from somewhere between the wheel hub and the axle seals(read the pro tip to learn why I think that way).
Furthermore...
There are a few more tests to be run before dropping a subframe...
That one test you videoed, it's quite helpful...now lets try to vary the theme a little...after you clarify a few points about your test.
Was that test done in first gear? What speed?
Was the clutch pressed in just before the engine was killed; allowing the tires to "freewheel"?
Did you use Neutral at all in the test; or was the engine separated from the wheels SOLELY by use of the clutch?
By changing the above variables, you can isolate different parts of the driveline.
Pro Tip: You can confirm it's the transaxle internals by using neutral AND the clutch AND the brakes. Use First Gear and spin everything up to the highest MPH you are comfortable with. Then, in one Ninja-like motion, press the clutch(leaves the input shaft spinning), shift to neutral(leaves the input shaft spinning), **** the engine(allows you to hear hit the brakes) and hit the brakes(stops the wheels, axles and DIFF). With any luck, your input shaft will continue to spin and may (but I doubt it) make the noise for you...I'm guessing that you won't hear a thing once the brakes are pressed. If you do hear the noise, letting the clutch out(with the engine stopped, while in neutral) will stop the noise if it's your input shaft or clutch assembly. Repeating these steps in all the different gears may help you learn which part of the transaxle is making the noise.
PS...Good thing it happened to motivate you to change your fluid...that stuff was dark as welches grape juice.
Edit, repeating the steps while allowing only ONE wheel to spin might help you determine if it's the DIFF
Edit, Edit.. RE: the protip sequence.
A more reliable sequence would be:
1 shift to neutral
2 press the clutch
3 **** the engine
4 hit the brakes
Furthermore...
There are a few more tests to be run before dropping a subframe...
That one test you videoed, it's quite helpful...now lets try to vary the theme a little...after you clarify a few points about your test.
Was that test done in first gear? What speed?
Was the clutch pressed in just before the engine was killed; allowing the tires to "freewheel"?
Did you use Neutral at all in the test; or was the engine separated from the wheels SOLELY by use of the clutch?
By changing the above variables, you can isolate different parts of the driveline.
Pro Tip: You can confirm it's the transaxle internals by using neutral AND the clutch AND the brakes. Use First Gear and spin everything up to the highest MPH you are comfortable with. Then, in one Ninja-like motion, press the clutch(leaves the input shaft spinning), shift to neutral(leaves the input shaft spinning), **** the engine(allows you to hear hit the brakes) and hit the brakes(stops the wheels, axles and DIFF). With any luck, your input shaft will continue to spin and may (but I doubt it) make the noise for you...I'm guessing that you won't hear a thing once the brakes are pressed. If you do hear the noise, letting the clutch out(with the engine stopped, while in neutral) will stop the noise if it's your input shaft or clutch assembly. Repeating these steps in all the different gears may help you learn which part of the transaxle is making the noise.
PS...Good thing it happened to motivate you to change your fluid...that stuff was dark as welches grape juice.
Edit, repeating the steps while allowing only ONE wheel to spin might help you determine if it's the DIFF
Edit, Edit.. RE: the protip sequence.
A more reliable sequence would be:
1 shift to neutral
2 press the clutch
3 **** the engine
4 hit the brakes
Last edited:
LeddZepp8687
The Keg Rider
Seeing as it is very easy to drop an MTX, I would drop it. Drive it to Beths place and let her look at it. And if something is wrong, then its in the perfect place to be built anyhow.
Bizzy
SHO Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2001
- Messages
- 13,222
- Reaction score
- 1,462
Did you ever pull the starter so you could take a look at the straps?
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Yes he did . . . .
. . . after someone kept calling and beating him about-the-head-and-shoulders about it :dig:
. . . after someone kept calling and beating him about-the-head-and-shoulders about it :dig:
Bizzy
SHO Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2001
- Messages
- 13,222
- Reaction score
- 1,462
Good.
.........and what was the verdict? I feel like I'm pulling teeth here.
.........and what was the verdict? I feel like I'm pulling teeth here.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Eric . . . . ?
Sorry, we're picking on you because we like you . . . .
(I think that's how that excuse goes....)
P.S. Bizzy, I hear from the UPS guy, that you're a popular person today
wanna post some pictures of those shims in there
, while you're checking the Speedo Gear Drives (should be two gear drives - shipped yesterday)
Sorry, we're picking on you because we like you . . . .
(I think that's how that excuse goes....
)P.S. Bizzy, I hear from the UPS guy, that you're a popular person today
wanna post some pictures of those shims in there
, while you're checking the Speedo Gear Drives (should be two gear drives - shipped yesterday)
SHObill
'The Collector'
Your insane! Easy my a$$! Its a full day PIA job! Best to take 2 days to do all the other major things while your that far in!
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
Well, nothing was making contact that I can see with the flywheel or pp. All the bolts are in place, just some dust on the inside of the housing.
Now the "Killed it test" I simply spun the engine in neutral, and turned it off.
When I ran it up, spinning the wheels, I actually was in third, I'm thinking the added torque made it easier to hear. But I pushed the clutch, pulled it out of gear ,and turned it off then leaving the wheels to spin. Then is when I hear it. I guess my "seperation" would have been when I fired it up and didn't spin the tires.. Never got the shifter outta neutral then, and no noise there either.
Can I block one wheel and let the other spin? Or will I pull my car off the jackstands? Anything else that would help diagnose, let me know, I'm willing to try anything now.. lol
Now the "Killed it test" I simply spun the engine in neutral, and turned it off.
When I ran it up, spinning the wheels, I actually was in third, I'm thinking the added torque made it easier to hear. But I pushed the clutch, pulled it out of gear ,and turned it off then leaving the wheels to spin. Then is when I hear it. I guess my "seperation" would have been when I fired it up and didn't spin the tires.. Never got the shifter outta neutral then, and no noise there either.
Can I block one wheel and let the other spin? Or will I pull my car off the jackstands?
Anything else that would help diagnose, let me know, I'm willing to try anything now.. lol
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Can I block one wheel and let the other spin? Or will I pull my car off the jackstands?
Yes you can. Remove the tire and put a screwdriver in the caliper between 2 vanes of the brake rotor.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Eric :wave:
I've been out of the loop since heading north, and got back yesterday afternoon. Where do you stand on tranny/drivetrain noise? I was planning on dropping-off a set of halfshafts for you to swap to eliminate them as a source of the noise, but didn't get into the Fort Wayne area until after 10PM.
You should have come-up. We used pjtoledo's (Perry) engine brace, and I now wish I owned one. It is very well designed, worked very well in supporting the engine and reasonably well at tilting the engine. Seeing it would have given you some ideas on what to look/ask for in having the engine braces made.
I've been out of the loop since heading north, and got back yesterday afternoon. Where do you stand on tranny/drivetrain noise? I was planning on dropping-off a set of halfshafts for you to swap to eliminate them as a source of the noise, but didn't get into the Fort Wayne area until after 10PM.
You should have come-up. We used pjtoledo's (Perry) engine brace, and I now wish I owned one. It is very well designed, worked very well in supporting the engine and reasonably well at tilting the engine. Seeing it would have given you some ideas on what to look/ask for in having the engine braces made.
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