TB, WP, and 60K Maintenance Video Guide

[auto obsessive garage]

I did see a set on there for just under $30. I was just debating whether the OEM in good running condition might be the better performing option to just keep.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wkienzle]

Hit a snag today as the plug wires I purchased from Rockauto don’t actually fit the SHO.

Yes, unfortunately I have found RockAuto has a few incorrect parts listed for the SHO. A tip off for an incorrect listing is if it fits Taurus models before 1989 when it is clear the part should be SHO specific. Click on the part number on the RockAuto site to see fitment information. In your case, the listed Motorcraft part is for the 3.0 SOHC (SLO) engine with VIN U (SHO is VIN Y).
The correct Motorcraft part number is WR-4033 (picture attached). This is my NOS. I think they were discontinued about a decade ago. E-bay has a listing selling for $245 (https://www.ebay.com/p/1369174327). That seems expensive. I think I paid around $70 for my set at Track Auto - but that was 2 decades ago. The ACDelco, Denso, BWD and Belden wires seem to be the correct SHO fitment. Good luck.

 

[blk\blk90]

I got these from O'Reillys when I was in a hurry to get it running.

 

[auto obsessive garage]

Yeah, Rockauto has done me wrong a few times, but is usually solid.



Probably just going to stay with the stock ones as they appear to be functioning fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SHOMON]

The Denso wires also have the same clear plastic loom as the OEM wires.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Good progress. I ran into the WR-4021 wireset problem at Autozone as well. Totally wrong. I wrote a review about it, but they never posted it. Should be WR-4033 of course. Couldn't find those anywhere.

A problem with a lot of aftermarket wire sets is that some of the wires are way to long. Most of my clients get these:

https://shosource.com/products?olsPage=products/taylor-82mm-thundervolt-spark-plug-wires-86-95

Per https://www.dropbox.com/s/w9f8gg2ukc1bek2/SHO_Engine_Book.pdf?dl=0 , Crank pulley torque spec is 112-127 ft. lb. The engine can be stopped from turning when tightening the bolt either by removing the starter and jamming something into the flywheel (requires two people), or putting the car in gear and jamming screwdrivers into the slots in the front rotors. However, years ago I used my DeWalt electric impact wrench to tighten the bolt, then tested with a torque wrench to make sure it was tightened to spec. It was, so I simply use that and have never had one come loose. The DeWalt tightens wheel lug nuts to only 70 ft. lb., but the large ****** on the crank pulley makes it come to a dead stop. I'd be leery of using anything more powerful.

 

[auto obsessive garage]

A thing of beauty. Making great progress. Should start putting videos together after buttoning her back up.

Spoiler...30 years old, 132k miles and no one has ever rooted around in the engine bay...all original and no leaks. Seems impossible...maybe it only has 32k miles? I’m dreaming.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blk\blk90]

Looks good! Coming along nicely!

 

[auto obsessive garage]

Project SHO Me the Sleeper is complete and I couldn’t be any more happier with the outcome. Always feels good to bring a great machine back to its glory.

Here’s the final episode of the series and I threw a little before and after recap highlight at the end.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[luigisho]

Nice work. Looks great! I'll be looking out for your YouTube content.

 

[zoomlater]

Looks good!