Swaybar combo feed back

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FAST4DR

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I can see where running coilovers and no swaybars would be better, but then to get the handling I want in the turns the normal straight-on ride would be harsh, wouldn't it?

This is not a track only car, it is full weight. I can cruise my car anywhere and yes the ride is firm, but no worse than my friends new BMW 330i ZHP with the 18" wheels sport package. Mine is harsher because of all the TPR/poly, but the firmness is about the same.

I would like to try coilovers, but right now the car is handling to my satisfaction and to the disbelief of everybody who sees me run at the autocross, so I will stick with the combo I have for now.

Will
 

Lance Cheney

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jedhead said:
If using little or no sway bars is better for handling, then why would the Ninja Turtle SHO's use 68mm front and 83mm rear bars?

I think Hack got it on this one. This would be a 22/26mm combo.

When the sway bar is compressed on one side doesn't it put downward pressure on the other tire?

It's easiest to visualize it this way. When you go around a left-hand corner the spring on the right-hand suspension is compressed. This pulls that end of the sway bar up, which forces the other end of the sway bar up, causing the left-hand corner spring to compress from that force -- eg the swaybar is now supporting some of the weight of the left-hand side now, so there is less weight/force to push the tire against the ground. You've transferred that force to the outside (heavily-loaded) tire.

My 1974 Jensen-Healey did not have sway bars from the factory. I purchased a set of sway bars for it, my cornering speeds increased greatly. The body roll decreased also. The only downside that I had with the sway bar equipped Jensen-Healey was in really roughly paved corners the live axle rear end got upset easier.

In many cases sway bars can still improve cornering speeds because the suspension geometry is retained and the tire has a better contact patch then it would without the sway bar. Also, transitions are indeed faster with a sway bar, and the center of gravity does not move as much.

What I was trying to say (and probably didn't do a real good job of it) is that springs offer you the same benefits -- reduced body roll, better suspension geometry, etc., without the detriment that sway bars bring. Also, there is a point at which reducing body roll has LESS increase (performance-wise) than the grip lost due to the larger sway bar. Note that the car may still *feel* more stable, and faster, because there is less body roll, but if you actually timed the two setups it would not necessarily match what you perceived.

Of course, the detriment with springs is that they (A) Require more damping force, and (B) Degrade ride quality more quickly than sway bars, and degrade it even in straight-line driving over even (eg. same side-to-side) bumps like humps/ripples in roadways.

The newest BMW has sway bars that are two piece and can be disconnected. It is my understanding that the sway bar is disconnected while driving in a straight line for a better ride and connected while cornering. Does BMW have it wrong and the sway bars be disconnected for cornering?

I'm not familiar with their setup, but it wouldn't make much sense to disconnect the sway bars during cornering when that is indeed when you would want them. You probably would disconnect them during straight-line driving because things like potholes and bumps damp better if they stay on one side of the car, rather than being transferred to the other side (which causes the body of the car to attempt to lift or fall because that wheel suddenly has extra force on it above the weight of the car due to the sway bar transferring force there). If you think about the sway bar as an 'anti-independent-suspension' device (links the two sides together), then it makes sense that the ride quality is degraded by installing a larger sway bar.

-Lance
 

Lance Cheney

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FAST4DR said:
I can see where running coilovers and no swaybars would be better, but then to get the handling I want in the turns the normal straight-on ride would be harsh, wouldn't it?

This is not a track only car, it is full weight. I can cruise my car anywhere and yes the ride is firm, but no worse than my friends new BMW 330i ZHP with the 18" wheels sport package. Mine is harsher because of all the TPR/poly, but the firmness is about the same.

I would like to try coilovers, but right now the car is handling to my satisfaction and to the disbelief of everybody who sees me run at the autocross, so I will stick with the combo I have for now.

Yeah, you have a LOT of body roll in that first picture. I've never seen that much on my car at any track events I've been to (even before the coilovers). You're running Intrax springs?

And yes, you're right about the ride. I think coilovers could be fine with lower spring rates (the unsprung weight reduction would make up for the higher spring rate). The ride on mine isn't too bad for smaller bumps -- between the 255-55-16 tires and the lowered weight it soaks up small bumps pretty well. It's just the larger road undulations that get you, because it tracks them so aggressively. A 300lb spring rate in the front would be a nice improvement in cornering without killing the ride, but I'm not sure you could get that to work on any of the coilover setups I've seen (you would need a 12" long spring, and I'm not sure if you could get that in there without having to precompress it). Bump the rear to 200-225 and it should be fairly nicely balanced.


Edit: And of course the real problem with this entire setup is the cost ...

The SHO was a lot of fun before the coilovers, and makes for a pretty competetive car at a lot of events. Since the CSVT works fine for daily driving I can upgrade the SHO without worrying too much about it. I wouldn't want to daily drive it in the condition it is in.

PPS. The 'turd has pretty dang small sway bars, and rolls quite a bit, but handles quite well overall.

-Lance
 

Hack

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FAST4DR said:
I can see where running coilovers and no swaybars would be better, but then to get the handling I want in the turns the normal straight-on ride would be harsh, wouldn't it?

This is not a track only car, it is full weight. I can cruise my car anywhere and yes the ride is firm, but no worse than my friends new BMW 330i ZHP with the 18" wheels sport package. Mine is harsher because of all the TPR/poly, but the firmness is about the same.

I would like to try coilovers, but right now the car is handling to my satisfaction and to the disbelief of everybody who sees me run at the autocross, so I will stick with the combo I have for now.

Will

Will, I am afraid I cannot comment on a full weight car running coilovers. Mine is loud, hot as an oven, and rides like an empty dump truck. I don't mind though as it is a track only car. Considering the success you have at the auto-x, I don't blame you for sticking with what you have.
 

AutoSHO

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In my car, I loved the 22/26 setup with stock springs.

Once I switched to Eibachs and Konis, the 22/26 combo still worked nice, but I wanted to drop the front size down to a 20.6 as I was getting a bit more understeer with the stiffer springs. The 20.6/26 would have been very nice I think.
 

jedhead

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Lance and Hack,
You make a lot of sense. Thanks for the lessons. In the future I may try coil overs less sway bar. I will give the 22mm bar a try also.

Bob
 

SuperHO

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Wow, from what I'm hearing, I don't need to touch my suspension setup...(though I will, cuz it's all oem or Factory). When driving at the limits on twisties (and yes, I flog the car pretty ******* some turns), I've yet to have it exhibit anything but just the smallest bit of understeer at the EXTREME limits. Otherwise, handling is pretty damn neutral for a full weight car on factory rear suspension....but then, I've never driven a car with a performance suspension setup, so I could be totally wrong.
 

ManySHOs

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Ok, it's my turn to bring a thread back from the dead.

Which cars came with 21mm or 23mm rear sway bars? I'm actively looking for one and/or the other. I think I'll try a 23mm first.

Thanks!
Ian
 

zak

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Running Quiafe, 26 mm rear sway bar, had earlier higher linear rate MTX springs on my car (89-93 rate 200 front/130 rear) I found a 20.6/26 combo to be tail happy above 60 mph in the NESHOC high speed autocrosses, with better corner exit on slower portions of the course.

Also had issues with bottoming the outside front and lifting the inside rear wheel off the ground on fast sweepers, even with the front Koni's one full turn firm (this is with 245 RA1 DOT race rubber on 8 inch wheels). This is on a light 95 MTX (no moonroof, no power passenger seat). I have since gone up to a 22 mm front bar, much less bottoming but gives up a little on corner exit (can sometimes get power understeer even on warm race tires). Very nice combo (22/26) at Lime Rock on 225 S03 street tires.

I'm currently going to a Gen III front subframe (thanks to NESHO and JEM), and plan to experiment with some ~180 lb/inch linear rears in combo with a 25 mm rear bar after an autox or 2 with the current setup in the rear. Current build is with a 2000-2005 SLO wagon 22 mm front bar (only $70 with bushings and brackets at Ford!). This approach requires a subframe drop due to the size of the front bushings, if I change down.

Hope this helps someone - zak
 
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Eric VerValin

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I've read all the posts and what not, and from what I read.. my 23/24 setup is supposed to be kinda crappy. But the other thing I don't ever notice people saying is weather or not they have ALSFB's. I changed those alone and it dramatically changed the way the car 'pushes'.

23/24 with new or good polys, and alsfb's in an open diff seems really neutral to me. Maybe I'm just not driving fast enough.. :) ?
 

PAracer

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Current setup:
springs 430/350
Koni struts at full stiff
Sway bars: 20/26
Alignment is nothing radical
Ride height is so that the car runs out of front travel under braking and corner apex only on the biggest bumps. The rear looks like I'm hauling 8 corpses to the graveyard at 120mph.

Overall, the car is neutral, tending toward understeer (comforting when the adrenaline starts flowing). I can still flick the rear end out in slower corners when needed.
 

Lance Cheney

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zak

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Ian, the sizes are 20.6, 22.0 (wagon), 24.0 (early SHO) and 25.0 (early to mid Police) mm for the front, and 21.0, 23.0, 25.0, and 26.0 for the rear. Not sure where Eric gets his 23 mm front/24 mm rear combo from, he may be calipering the bends or something.

zak
 
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SeanMc

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A lot has changed since 2k5. I now have Koni and Eibach, SFC, 23mm front swaybar, 26mm rear swaybar, 17x7 rims w/235/45/17 Nitto NT555s and for fwiw, solid trans and motor mounts. I absolutely love it. I can take cloverleaf freeway onramps at 45+mph, and the car feels like it pivots on an axis in the center of the car when doing quick 90* turns with almost no wheelspin unless there is water on the ground. Oh, I have a '95 ATX btw.
 
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ManySHOs

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Ian, the sizes are 20.6, 22.0 (wagon), 24.0 (early SHO) and 25.0 (early to mid Police) mm for the front, and 21.0, 23.0, 25.0, and 26.0 for the rear. Not sure where Eric gets his 23 mm front/24 mm rear combo from, he may be calipering the bends or something.

zak

I thought about that and I wonder if he meant 24/23. I think that he has a 93 mtx which should have come with a 24mm FSB. Now I'm wondering where my stock RSB went...it probably was a 23. Unfortunately it was probably the first thing I swapped onto my car. I suspect that I put it on my 94 atx when I sold it.

Ian
 

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