Seeing as this thread is now a brake issue, I have track experience with OEM Ford equipment and am wanting to upgrade but yet keep the 16" wheels.
The OEM Ford pads, NOT Motorcraft, are good for 99% of any situation you will encounter. Not the cheapest, not the grippiest, no lifetime guarantees but I have 3 three track session on my current set of pads and until I go on the track again will keep these until they are gone.
So considering OEM Ford brake components and yearly fluid flushes the base, the best, first, cheapest GEN 3 brake mod to do is the rear brake plugs. The rear brakes are the same as any other Taurus from '93 on with rear disk brakes.
But the front. There is the Cobra dual piston caliper upgrade that takes some minor machining to do to make it work. Or better bolt in components of equal or better performance for 50% more money than the Cobra calipers on 16" rims.
Which reminds me, a certain Vendor from out east has promised me a set of the Cobras made up for quite a while now........
But as for the suspension there is a lot you can do. All relatively cheap and worth every dollar. Again OEM struts in good condition (<50k) is the starting point with good tires. First off is new TPR bushings (everywhere but the front lower arm) , HD sway bar ends links, 26mm rear sway bar, 24 mm front sway bar (with lateral movement limiting collars like OEM), Solid front subframe bushings, and rear subframe connectors. You can also compromise in the front on the subframe bushings by using the OEM rear two piece subframe bushing in the front of the subframe also. And don't forget the front strut tower brace.
There are also the Eibach lowering springs. I have them with new SARC struts and the SARC struts disabled but with the VAPs functional. Can be very harsh. Handles like a go cart. Others have used the Eibachs with the KYB GR2s and are happy. There is also the Ford '99 SHO strut.
If I were to do all of these mods again it would be in this order by performance.
1) FSTB
2) Rear subframe connectors
3) Solid front subframe bushings
4) 26mm and 24 mm sway bars.
5) Adjustable rear arms
6) Springs when you get tired of the wheel gap.
Again this is assuming the struts are good and that the suspension bushings and end links are changed in the process.