I pulled the trigger on a 17 Non-PP this weekend and looking for advice on build and parts

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Mike67

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I got the car with 10.5k miles with the CPO extended 7yr/100k warranty and I purchased the extended the bumper to bumper warranty.

Have any of you that have built your SHOs had to use their warranty and if so, what was the dealership's service department's attitude about the fact that they are performing warranty work on a car that has been built? I had a Buick dealership that didn't care when I took my Regal GS (that was built as much as I could do on it) in with an extended warranty that I got through my credit union and they didn't care. They thought the car was cool as shitz. I would think that they just want the work and to get paid.

I'm wanting to build a stout street beast I'd like to keep it stock looking under the hood other than a catch can and cold air. Kind of the ultimate sleeper at local car shows/hangouts.

My goals are to get to 400whp and high 400s TQ with AO tune and higher with E30 tune. I have a gas station that's two miles away that has E85

I'm trying to decide on which DPs to get and whether or not to CAT them. Is there a big difference in flow/power levels and underhood heat between the two? I plan to get them ceramic coated. I do have emissions here but when I took my 2010Volvo S80 in for testing last time they didn't sniff the exhaust just scan the computer. I did have a hi-flow Ferretta DP with HP CAT on it, full cat-back ex, huge FMIC, all upsized intake pipe and CAI along with an aggressive tune from Hilton Tunning (only place that can do the S80). It's been totaled so I got the SHO I've been wanting since my neighbor took me for a ride and let me drive his 2016 a few years ago.

If I have to swap out the DPs every two years after 2024 (CO doesn't test new vehicles until they are 7yo) then I will if needed, only if it's worth the gains in flow, power and less underhood heat.

That being said, I'm really leaning toward the PPE based on fitment and quality from what I've read here. Is Stainless Works the only other ones available? Do they fit that bad? Rub on something or just hang too low?

I'm on the list for the GH FMIC, is that the only one available? if not, are there better ones that are a direct bolt-in? I don't want to cut the car up.

I'm going to get an upgraded HPFP for the E30 tune. I think I read that if you want to get an E85 tune then you need to upgrade the LPFP also.

On the Tunes question. I've reached out to Matt at GH and haven't gotten any real clear responses on my goals. I plan to get the Livewire Power Pac. So when I have him tune it I'm assuming I can get multiple tunes and just switch them out depending on my fuel in the tank. I'll probably run the AO most of the time and when I want to go to some of the local shows and hangouts run the E30 tune. Then when I get the LPFP get an E85 tune for some real street slaying and track days. I don't plan on tracking it much other than e a few times just to see what it will do.

So my next question is I see the EPP CAI. My neighbor gave me his AIRAID intake from his 2016 since it was a lease and he turned it back in. Are the EPP CAIs that much better? Will the AIRAID support my goal?

Are there any diverter valve or wastegate upgrades that prevent boost creep and spike? I had a GoFast Bit on my Volvo.

The last question is the exhaust, I've read on here that the exhaust is pretty good on the car it's just the DPs suck. I've read about the 3rd CAT delete and the resonator delete. Is the 3rd CAT very restrictive and why it gets removed? I don't really want fumes that burn my eyes and fill my garage with fume in the winter morning when I prestart my car. I also don't want the dreaded drone. Is there a performance CATBACK exhaust that is worth upgrading to and doesn't drone?

I just ordered the upgrade Ver2 Trans Mounts from Anthony after reading that post. Not looking to the initial vibration in the steering wheel.

One last question, H&R 1.5" drop springs - do they make the ride harsh? i installed some Elevate drop springs on my S80 and it ruined the ride of it. Looked and cornered great but just too harsh

Is there any other things I need to consider for the build?

Thanks for any advice and help. I'm looking forward to the build, just wish all the parts were readily available. IDK why the manufacturers don't stockpile them, probably storage space issues? I'm sure they have rental units in their town!!LOL
 
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Kenpachi

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Looks like you've really done your homework, there's some fantastic resources on this form to get the performance you're looking for. Let me regurgitate some info before the big names hop in to help.

Warranty work with mods is 100% dependent on your relationship with your dealership

PPE downpipes over Stainless no questions

Personally if you live somewhere with emissions or have the potential to move soon get the Cats, the performance difference will not be massive and the cost for the pipes and coating isn't worth having to replace them if you

GH intercooler is the only one on the market

EPP intake from what I've read gets the most benefits with upgraded turbos, the air raid will be fine and for the money/install effort air raid will probably be best

Catbacks that sound good and don't have drone are tough to find on this platform and you won't be getting much power increase from the exhaust since the down pipes are where its most needed. You can hit your power goals with the stock exhaust no problem. The cost per performance gain isn't there if you're just going for 400 whp.

H&R Springs are going to make the ride harsher that's a given. I bought mine to have a powerful, comfortable daily driver. The *** holes in Chicago are deadly (wife blew two tires in three years here) so I'll take the comfort over the looks and unnecessary performance gains for going in a straight line.

A lot of people making performance parts for the SHO have other jobs or projects they work on, its still a small community. No need to make 1,000 intercoolers that might not sell when you have to pay for the fabrication from a third party vendor and pay for space. Also, if you have a big upfront production run, you can't make small adjustments your customers might find beneficial on everything you already have made. Most of these parts are relatively new.
 

High on Ethanol

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Ya don't need all that for those goals.

New plugs, k&n in a stock box, e30 tune, trans mounts, new fluids, msd coils. That will probably hit your goals. Add yellowstuff pads and conti tires and that gets you about 90percent of the handling. The rest is mostly cosmetic.


If you have money to burn or wanna see some accelerated wear and carnage then read on.
Add intercooler, downpipes, and HPFP and you will be as fast as most people in this forum. Add turbos and you will probably start breaking stuff. Add nitrous and methanol to top it off. Please gopro all of it thanks
 

FiveLeeter918

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Responses bold...

I got the car with 10.5k miles with the CPO extended 7yr/100k warranty and I purchased the extended the bumper to bumper warranty.

Have any of you that have built your SHOs had to use their warranty and if so, what was the dealership's service department's attitude about the fact that they are performing warranty work on a car that has been built? I had a Buick dealership that didn't care when I took my Regal GS (that was built as much as I could do on it) in with an extended warranty that I got through my credit union and they didn't care. They thought the car was cool as shitz. I would think that they just want the work and to get paid.

I've never needed a warranty issue on my SHO, bought it at 22k and at 84k now, but my Mustang I had before this was full tilt, ate the HVAC system twice, had MT-82 issues and never had an issue with warranty. I would make good friends with your service advisor, it goes a long way.

I'm wanting to build a stout street beast I'd like to keep it stock looking under the hood other than a catch can and cold air. Kind of the ultimate sleeper at local car shows/hangouts.

My goals are to get to 400whp and high 400s TQ with AO tune and higher with E30 tune. I have a gas station that's two miles away that has E85

I'm trying to decide on which DPs to get and whether or not to CAT them. Is there a big difference in flow/power levels and underhood heat between the two? I plan to get them ceramic coated. I do have emissions here but when I took my 2010Volvo S80 in for testing last time they didn't sniff the exhaust just scan the computer. I did have a hi-flow Ferretta DP with HP CAT on it, full cat-back ex, huge FMIC, all upsized intake pipe and CAI along with an aggressive tune from Hilton Tunning (only place that can do the S80). It's been totaled so I got the SHO I've been wanting since my neighbor took me for a ride and let me drive his 2016 a few years ago.

The issue you'll run here is that due to the EPA crack down and federal regulations tuners can't just disable the O2 sensors anymore like they use to, it's not worth the risk for a $10k per occurrence fine. There are ways around it, but otherwise you'll be living with P0420/P0430 codes which WILL keep you from passing emissions. Some just keep the stock downpipes and swap back a week before testing. I personally run Stainless Works catless, but if you do want catted go PPE for sure, they're the only ones that guarantee no CEL and to pass emissions. I prefer catless, and with the correct tune you'll have no smell or adverse effects.

If I have to swap out the DPs every two years after 2024 (CO doesn't test new vehicles until they are 7yo) then I will if needed, only if it's worth the gains in flow, power and less underhood heat.

That being said, I'm really leaning toward the PPE based on fitment and quality from what I've read here. Is Stainless Works the only other ones available? Do they fit that bad? Rub on something or just hang too low?

Gen 2 SWs fit great on all cars, the Gen 1s had issues with PP cars and had to relocate the front bank wideband bung as it would hit the trans cooler. ARH makes the downpipes for LMS, and then OBX is a Chinese knockoff of the Gen 1 SWs.

I'm on the list for the GH FMIC, is that the only one available? if not, are there better ones that are a direct bolt-in? I don't want to cut the car up.

GH is the only drop in OE location replacement unit. The FMIC kits out there require trimming to fit, but wouldn't necessary call it a cut up.

I'm going to get an upgraded HPFP for the E30 tune. I think I read that if you want to get an E85 tune then you need to upgrade the LPFP also.

Highly depends on your tuner. Some claim you need injectors, we have done it with just the DW300C and XDI35. Talk with your tuner about your plans and make sure they agree with your goals.

On the Tunes question. I've reached out to Matt at GH and haven't gotten any real clear responses on my goals. I plan to get the Livewire Power Pac. So when I have him tune it I'm assuming I can get multiple tunes and just switch them out depending on my fuel in the tank. I'll probably run the AO most of the time and when I want to go to some of the local shows and hangouts run the E30 tune. Then when I get the LPFP get an E85 tune for some real street slaying and track days. I don't plan on tracking it much other than e a few times just to see what it will do.

I don't think Matt will do E85 tunes, but talk to him he may be pushing harder these days than in the pass. To my knowledge we are the only ones offering a performance E85 tune.

So my next question is I see the EPP CAI. My neighbor gave me his AIRAID intake from his 2016 since it was a lease and he turned it back in. Are the EPP CAIs that much better? Will the AIRAID support my goal?

Airaid is a great unit, I ran one for the first two years before the EPP came out, and as a dealer for both I always recommend to review your goals and act accordingly. On a stock engine, you'll see virtually no difference in power as the intake is not the bottleneck, but with FMIC, downpipes, and E30 you will notice a great gain with the EPP over the Airaid since the turbos aren't fighting each other for air. If you already have the Airaid, use it.

Are there any diverter valve or wastegate upgrades that prevent boost creep and spike? I had a GoFast Bit on my Volvo.

This is typically controlled with throttle closure when fueling is an issue. EPP hotpipes come optioned with a TiAL BOV and the stock bypass valves are removed, but there are no stock location replacements YET. I am actually working with GFB on their prototype F-150 bypass valve, and once finished they are modifying it to fit the stock SHO charge pipe I sent them. TurboSmart makes 7psi wastegates that are drop in, but typically they aren't needed unless your OE diaphragm is damaged.

The last question is the exhaust, I've read on here that the exhaust is pretty good on the car it's just the DPs suck. I've read about the 3rd CAT delete and the resonator delete. Is the 3rd CAT very restrictive and why it gets removed? I don't really want fumes that burn my eyes and fill my garage with fume in the winter morning when I prestart my car. I also don't want the dreaded drone. Is there a performance CATBACK exhaust that is worth upgrading to and doesn't drone?

I prefer the sound of catless downpipes with a stock catback. I've heard all of the commercially available exhausts (Magnaflow, Corsa, SW) and I'm just not a fan. I have a Magnaflow resonated X-Pipe ready to install in place of the third cat, but COVID had delayed that a good deal.

I just ordered the upgrade Ver2 Trans Mounts from Anthony after reading that post. Not looking to the initial vibration in the steering wheel.

Most never notice it. I never had any issues just follow torque spec and knock off the ridges on the bracket if present.

One last question, H&R 1.5" drop springs - do they make the ride harsh? i installed some Elevate drop springs on my S80 and it ruined the ride of it. Looked and cornered great but just too harsh

Drives like stock, a little firmer but more predictable. Designed perfectly for the PP struts.

Is there any other things I need to consider for the build?

Thanks for any advice and help. I'm looking forward to the build, just wish all the parts were readily available. IDK why the manufacturers don't stockpile them, probably storage space issues? I'm sure they have rental units in their town!!LOL

I used to keep minimum 4 sets of everything in stock minus the parts with a skull on them, but COVID killed that due to workforce reductions, plant closures, etc.

Let me know if we can help at Ortiz Performance!
 

GotGrip?

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If your goal is 400 whp, I hit 421/503 with an K&N intake, MSD coils, a DIY FMIC on e30. maybe cost me around $1500. It doesn't take much to meet your goal, you don't need exhaust work or anything major, just a couple bolt ons and a tune to get there.

EDIT: For warranty, its better to be upfront that you are modded, trust goes a long way. Aside from that, they still have to prove that whatever modification you did caused the problem. Coming from the auto industry myself, generally you only "lose" warranty on the parts you replace. "If you can't prove it in a court of law" you're generally ok with warranty work.
 

Mike67

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So I cleaned the Airaid filter and the directions I got with it say not to oil it. But it has a picture of a cleaning kit with an oil spray? Why would they contradict themselves on the directions?
 

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Mike67

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Let me know if we can help at Ortiz Performance!
That was very thorough and greatly appreciated reply. I did buy the XDI Evo HPFP and UPR CC from you yesterday. Thanks for your response and 5% discount.

I ended up getting the PPE catted DPs with ceramic coating directly from them since they were the first to reply to my emails. Hopefully it will cut down on the time to get them. They had to raise their price due to the suppliers of CATs the good thing is that they flow better and actually even clean the exhaust better from what they told me. I’m glad that there’s companies out there producing these HP parts for us in the SHO world. I don’t mind paying a little more $$ to get better parts and service from our vendors and tuners. I think Customer Service and the manufacturer’s taking pride in their R&D and production of these HP parts needs to be acknowledge and appreciated.

I’m really excited about my build and car, I’ve been wanting one since I drove my neighbor’s 2016. I looked at three other ones and took two home over the weekend. They just weren’t the ones until I found the one I purchased. Had to fly to El Paso and drive it back but well worth the extra effort. Very low mileage and super clean.

What’s up with the front seat covers coming undone from the frame. I cut the shizit out of my hand fixing one of the cars I took home but didn’t buy.

I’m sure I’ll up the goals somewhere down the road.

Thank you again for your replies and insights.
 
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FiveLeeter918

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That was very thorough and greatly appreciated reply. I did buy the XDI Evo HPFP and UPR CC from you yesterday. Thanks for your response and 5% discount.

I ended up getting the PPE catted DPs with ceramic coating directly from them since they were the first to reply to my emails. Hopefully it will cut down on the time to get them. They had to raise their price due to the suppliers of CATs the good thing is that they flow better and actually even clean the exhaust better from what they told me. I’m glad that there’s companies out there producing these HP parts for us in the SHO world. I don’t mind paying a little more $$ to get better parts and service from our vendors and tuners. I think Customer Service and the manufacturer’s taking pride in their R&D and production of these HP parts needs to be acknowledge and appreciated.

I’m really excited about my build and car, I’ve been wanting one since I drove my neighbor’s 2016. I looked at three other ones and took two home over the weekend. They just weren’t the ones until I found the one I purchased. Had to fly to El Paso and drive it back but well worth the extra effort. Very low mileage and super clean.

What’s up with the front seat covers coming undone from the frame. I cut the shizit out of my hand fixing to be the f the cars I took home but didn’t buy.

I’m sure I’ll up the goals somewhere down the road.

Thank you again for your replies and insights.

Sure thing, PPE is great stuff and they seem to be getting out a little faster than SW right now. I have 6 sets I'm waiting on for customers plus 5 sets I ordered myself to stock. It's been a waiting game for a while.

Haven't had any issues with the seats myself, what is yours doing?
 

kcobra

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Good luck on your build. You can easily run high 12's for barely any money. Going deep into the 12's will cost you some decent money but it is sure fun!
 

Mike67

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Sure thing, PPE is great stuff and they seem to be getting out a little faster than SW right now. I have 6 sets I'm waiting on for customers plus 5 sets I ordered myself to stock. It's been a waiting game for a while.

Haven't had any issues with the seats myself, what is yours doing?

Just ordered the H&R springs with bolts, MSD coils and spark plugs from you the other day. The front bottom seat cover attaches to the frame of the seat with these white clips. Apparently they get compressed and come loose. Maybe only for larger people that weigh more and push them down to the point they come unfastened. I'll load some pictures when I get a chance.

I've seen a cool chin spoiler on someone's car on here but can't find it again. It looks pretty aggressive and comes out pretty far from the bottom of the bumper. Do you know which one I'm referring to and who sells them?
 

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ridered74

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If you have access to long flat straight roads anywhere near you where you don't have to worry about cops, I would advise adding a dragy device to your list of things to acquire.
 

Mike67

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The front bottom seat cover attaches to the frame of the seat with these white clips. Apparently they get compressed and come loose.

Doesn't anyone else have their seat cover clips come undone? I saw the same thing on a different SHO that I almost bought last year.
 

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Michigan-SHO

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Doesn't anyone else have their seat cover clips come undone? I saw the same thing on a different SHO that I almost bought last year.

I have a ‘16 and don’t have this problem yet. I’m at 64k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

kcobra

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So I cleaned the Airaid filter and the directions I got with it say not to oil it. But it has a picture of a cleaning kit with an oil spray? Why would they contradict themselves on the directions?
Read again. It depends if you got their dry media filter or oiled filter media. Part# will tell you.
 

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