Spits and sputters

[OG-SHOguy]

what pcm do you have in this car?
I get 111 for current and 157 for stored.

111 means all is well.
157 says the mafs signal was low or grounded.

If the mafs is not working right, then it will definitely lean out when you open the throttle.

I would clear the codes, check and clean all connections to the mafs. Then test to see if performance changes, and if the code returns.

Clean the MAF element with a Qtip and rubbing alcohol...be very carful not to damage the element but clean it till the Qtip is clean when you wipe it...over time the element gets a layer of burnt dirt/oil/debris on it that will affect its ability to heat and cook off....that will cause a bad reading for sure.

 

[rubydist]

There is a 3 or 4 character code on the pcm, both on the connector (which may or may not be visible with the wire harness connected) and also on the back side of the pcm (which should be visible if you drop the glove box door all the way open.)

 

[SHOdded]

CRC MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner. Use liberally, as it is nowhere near as strong as B12 or brake cleaner etc.

 

[luigisho]

The pcm shoud be like LOS or X2J or B1B or B1B9 or something like that. I also found a computer model code inside the door stuck on the passenger A pillar. Some even had extra PCM code stickers in with the owners manual when new.

You can clean the MAF wire filiment that hangs down into the MAF housing like others are posting. Be aware that sometimes that works and sometimes it's still faulty-- so if you spray clean it and it's still acting up you have not eliminated it completely as a suspect.

 

[luigisho]

You sure it's the problem? Don't throw stuff at it until you have it narrowed down. Disconnect it and see how it runs. If it runs better with default computer values vs active sensor input then you know that is faulty. You can spray and clean all the contacts and filaments easily and cheaply to try and fix the problem or if the sensor is faulty and beyond cleaning to perform correctly then you replace. It may be something else. It may be combo of stuff. You are chasing ghosts by making assumptions and throwing money around. Be logical and methodical. Replacing one wire is not the same as fresh plugs and wires. Talking about MAF issues does not equal MAF is the or a problem. It is only likely based on available information from you.

I use Dan Barbush for used parts. He goes by SV&HODan on the forum.

 

[reags8]

You sure it's the problem? Don't throw stuff at it until you have it narrowed down. Disconnect it and see how it runs. If it runs better with default computer values vs active sensor input then you know that is faulty. You can spray and clean all the contacts and filaments easily and cheaply to try and fix the problem or if the sensor is faulty and beyond cleaning to perform correctly then you replace. It may be something else. It may be combo of stuff. You are chasing ghosts by making assumptions and throwing money around. Be logical and methodical. Replacing one wire is not the same as fresh plugs and wires. Talking about MAF issues does not equal MAF is the or a problem. It is only likely based on available information from you.

I use Dan Barbush for used parts. He goes by SV&HODan on the forum.

It was a joke .....

 

[OG-SHOguy]

 

[reags8]

Plan is to pull the connection and check how it runs, also clean the MAF.

 

[reags8]

Unplugged MAF and tach jumped but leveled out .... Next I cleaned MAF, let the car idle and get to temp, didn't notice a hesitation but have not had a chance to test drive.

 

[luigisho]

Report back with how it drives under load with the cleaned MAF and if it still sputters, drive it with it unplugged and see if that smooths it out.

 

[reags8]

Also cleared the codes and re-checked after cleaning MAF, no 157 ....

 

[reags8]

Got a chance today to run the car more than an idle in the driveway, still has the hesitation 1400 rpms, not as pronounced but still there and also when you give it WOT in the higher gears just cruising it 'bucks' ......

Tried running codes but only got 111.... keep digging for me.

Reags

 

[OG-SHOguy]

Got a chance today to run the car more than an idle in the driveway, still has the hesitation 1400 rpms, not as pronounced but still there and also when you give it WOT in the higher gears just cruising it 'bucks' ......

Tried running codes but only got 111.... keep digging for me.

Reags

It really sounds like an ignition problem to me....like a bad wire or a bad plug. anyone agree?

 

[reags8]

It really sounds like an ignition problem to me....like a bad wire or a bad plug. anyone agree?

New plugs installed .... waiting on ordered wires.

 

[OG-SHOguy]

im reaching a little with this one but what is your WOT fuel rail pressure? It could be a fuel related issue if the rail pressure is dropping or erratic...it would feel kind of like the rev limiter engaging briefly.....when it sputters or bucks does it feel like the rev limiter even though your not on redline?

 

[rubydist]

please drive it a few days and see if any codes reappear.

if no codes after a while, and the symptoms persist, I am starting to think its a pcm issue.

 

[luigisho]

Got a chance today to run the car more than an idle in the driveway, still has the hesitation 1400 rpms, not as pronounced but still there and also when you give it WOT in the higher gears just cruising it 'bucks' ......Reags

Run with it plugged in and unplugged? I assume not as unplugged would throw a code

 

[reags8]

Run with it plugged in and unplugged? I assume not as unplugged would throw a code

No I have not run it (other than idle) unplugged ...... Should I drive it unplugged ?

 

[rubydist]

yes, drive it with the mafs unplugged and let us know if its any different. it should set a code, so you will want to verify that, and then you need to clear codes after you plug it in again.

 

[SHOdded]

Man it was UGLY driving with the MAF unplugged!