Spits and sputters

[reags8]

92 MTX with 109, just got on road and working out the engine kinks .... just as the title states at a stop giving it gas in 1st the motor spits and sputters, after you get out of first and go through the gears not noticeable. I'm sure its electronic or fuel delivery just looking for a good place to start (?).

reags

O yea, no codes showing.

 

[luigisho]

Try looking at the plugs and wires for oil or age/gap issues. I had a dog with the ac on this summer for a week or two. New plugs and wires and good to go

 

[SHOdded]

Fuel pressure? TPS, DIS, and grounds.

 

[black92]

I agree with luigisho. Sounds like an ignition issue. Check your plugs then wires.

 

[itwonder]

All of the above and if it's an EGR car, check that.

 

[rubydist]

O yea, no codes showing.

Does that mean there are no codes, or that the check engine light is not on?

 

[OG-SHOguy]

I agree with Luigisho! Check for oil in the spark plug wells...if there is oil in the wells the spark will go to the head and not the plug causing a misfire and very erratic idle and loss of power or stumpy driving until the rpm gets high enough to produce more voltage, then the spark gets back to the plugs as best it can. You should notice you gas mileage goes to crap and more condensation/fuel smell in exhaust. Good luck buddy, hope you get it all worked out.

Also check the IAB, it might need a good cleaning as well.

 

[reags8]

Pulled the front wires and plugs last night, no oil in the well (unlike my 94 that would drain into the cylinder when pulled and create quite a smoke show), however there was 'staining' on some of the plugs porcelain and they looked pretty old. Plan is to replace the plugs and wires next opportunity.
This sounds spot on " until the rpm gets high enough to produce more voltage, then the spark gets back to the plugs as best it can "

No there is no CEL on.

Reags

 

[OG-SHOguy]

Pulled the front wires and plugs last night, no oil in the well (unlike my 94 that would drain into the cylinder when pulled and create quite a smoke show), however there was 'staining' on some of the plugs porcelain and they looked pretty old. Plan is to replace the plugs and wires next opportunity.
This sounds spot on " until the rpm gets high enough to produce more voltage, then the spark gets back to the plugs as best it can "

No there is no CEL on.

Reags

replace those old spark plugs and go from there, you can try an old trick on your wires too....get a spray bottle and fill with water...set the bottle to spray a very fine mist and in a dark garage with engine running (works best at night) spray a lite mist of water over the engine around the spark plug wires....IF you have old wires that are leaking voltage, you will see blue sparks in the mist...if you see this, replace those wires because they are leaking voltage!

 

[luigisho]

No there is no CEL on.
Reags

The point was that there can be codes stored in the computer without seeing a check engine light. So checking for codes is always a good idea even if no light is on.

Heat cycles, driving styles for these cars, oil leaks, ...plugs and wires have a limited operating life. With the discoloration on the ceramic I would be very comfortable changing both plugs and wires at this point.

 

[OG-SHOguy]

The point was that there can be codes stored in the computer without seeing a check engine light. So checking for codes is always a good idea even if no light is on.

Heat cycles, driving styles for these cars, oil leaks, ...plugs and wires have a limited operating life. With the discoloration on the ceramic I would be very comfortable changing both plugs and wires at this point.

^^^ what he said

 

[rubydist]

please pull the codes and let us know what you find.

 

[reags8]

Will pull tonight ....

 

[reags8]

Can't pull codes because I have an OBDII looking to pick up one for the SHO; was able to pull all the plugs and replace with Motorcraft AGSPs; inspected the wires and found this on #3 :
Had an extra set in trunk and swapped it ...... little better but still a studder at 15oo rpm, plan to order a full set and swap ...

 

[rubydist]

you really don't want a code reader. follow this:

http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/

 

[SHOdded]

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/EEC_Self_Test_Procedure

 

[reags8]

Ok pulled the codes (I think? awfully hard to tell if the first couple were it running the test of codes?) definitely had a single flash separator between 5 flashes and 7 .... it would repeat then that was all I got... ????
Another tidbit; when in gear low RPM 2k ish I cant give the car more than 1/2 pedal or I get a skips .... if the tach is over 3k no issues.

I uploaded the video of the KOEO test here; someone want to tell me the codes?
https://youtu.be/zoE5V1DyaBs

 

[rubydist]

what pcm do you have in this car?
I get 111 for current and 157 for stored.

111 means all is well.
157 says the mafs signal was low or grounded.

If the mafs is not working right, then it will definitely lean out when you open the throttle.

I would clear the codes, check and clean all connections to the mafs. Then test to see if performance changes, and if the code returns.

 

[luigisho]

It does jive with bad MAF if that is the correct code. I would unplug the MAF and see if the sputtering stops. It won't behave like a great car with a working MAF but it should smooth out enough to determine if it's the source of the problem. Just be aware that it will throw a light or code with it unplugged

 

[reags8]

what pcm do you have in this car?
I get 111 for current and 157 for stored.

111 means all is well.
157 says the mafs signal was low or grounded.

If the mafs is not working right, then it will definitely lean out when you open the throttle.

I would clear the codes, check and clean all connections to the mafs. Then test to see if performance changes, and if the code returns.

How do I check and tell you what PCM ?