So what did you do to your SHO today!?

[SHOdded]

It's been a crazy saga 4 sure. Maybe you should take it to a body shop that specializes in frame work next. Who knows if that's the issue ... but at least it will get you away from the Ford dealership sucksperience!

 

[6500rpm]

Ask the service manager for the stores warranty reps phone number, he shouldn't have any excuse not to provide it to you. If he gives you any grief go to the dealerships General Manager. They can't just roll over and play dead if they're having a hard time finding the issue, some things are a bitch that way when you're a Tech but you have to work through it. Once you have the warranty rep involved, he can quarterback things if you want to go to a different dealership or need a rental while they get it fixed. As an example, I had a Expedition in my bay today that had a similar vibration that's most noticeable at low speeds, but you have to be turning even ever so slightly. Dead straight, not a problem. Rear differential clutches are slip sticking. The one thing I like about my job is that I'm hourly (not a flat rate shop), while there's pressure to perform my only concern is to fix shit. If for some reason they can't understand, make them go on a road test with you driving and point it out to them. I had an ass clown service manager at a GM dealership that put 150mi on my wife's car for a shudder that happened at light throttle under load (pulling up hills/inclines) that swore it didn't happen until I put him in the car with me and showed him multiple times, then I handed him the TSB that his tech should have checked for a valve body replacement for a TCC clutch shudder. Sometime I just think the flat rate shops throw darts rather than do solid diagnostics because it's the fast route in their mind, unfortunately the same seems to apply to many doctors these days. You just need to find someone who gives a shit enough to do things right, the Ford warranty rep may just give you the leverage that you need.

 

[sholxgt]

a shudder that happened at light throttle under load (pulling up hills/inclines)

I have that exact problem with my MKS. Live in the mountains so it's driving me nuts. Dealership is out of the mountains and service adviser can't replicate the problem. Will probably be taking him for a drive.

 

[glockcoma]

You guys are gonna get to have a laugh today!
The service advisor said "so they can't find a problem with the car, according to the technician it's because they are low profile tires, which can cause some vibration... I just went along with it and said I will drop by after work and pick it up. I'm taking it somewhere else, and I will be contacting ford customer service. Ridiculous!

I'm over dealing with these idiots, if anyone has a number or email to a person in ford corporate, please send me a pm!

Here's a copy of my service report when they FINALLY found the pulsing vibration and fixed it. They had my car for 67 days.....under warranty.
The final fix was replacing the RDU.

 

[wraitherx]

Here's a copy of my service report when they FINALLY found the pulsing vibration and fixed it. They had my car for 67 days.....under warranty.
The final fix was replacing the RDU.

Glad you were able to get it fixed! Something for all of us to look into if it were ever to happen to us.

 

[marius883]

Here's a copy of my service report when they FINALLY found the pulsing vibration and fixed it. They had my car for 67 days.....under warranty.
The final fix was replacing the RDU.

Wow that is crazy! You basically got almost a whole new drivetrain in the process though haha!

I picked up my car right before closing last night, so I didn't get a chance to talk to a manager. The car is exactly the same, to no surprise! They did do the tsb for steering drift, which made a huge difference. Will contact Ford customer service at this point.

 

[Sholab1]

I had a new part sent from Torrie, waiting on 1 more part, got shipped separately . Going to be 2 weeks till I get installed. Work issues arghhh

 

[marius883]

So Ford customer service says there is nothing they can do about it, since the car is now out of warranty
The car still vibrates just as bad as it ever did, I spent money on new tires for no reason...
Now I have no idea what I'm going to do. I can't sell the car or trade it in, because I'm upside down on my loan...

 

[SHOdded]

Did you tell them you have been trying to address this issue since before the warranty ran out? Besides, they sometimes do have a "grace period" if your warranty just ran out (not that this applies to you). I would keep calling them. It WOULD help if you try and escalate the matter at the dealership first, then try another dealer who will help you file a claim with Ford. Having a case # helps. In fact, I would call Lincoln customer service instead. And/or find a Lincoln-only dealership to work with.

Did you call Ford Cust Svc or did you go the internet route (Twitter @FordService)?

 

[Kelly Padfield]

I would be calling them back telling them you have documentation stating the problem occurred before it went off warranty. Since you have proof of this, this particular problem is still covered under warranty.

Of course if anything new arises it won't be covered but this particular problem would still be covered.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

 

[marius883]

I would be calling them back telling them you have documentation stating the problem occurred before it went off warranty. Since you have proof of this, this particular problem is still covered under warranty.

Of course if anything new arises it won't be covered but this particular problem would still be covered.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

So basically what you are saying is the problem (vibration) has not been solved while the vehicle was under warranty, but if they find out the vibration is due to the RDU needing to be replaced as an example, it won't be covered?

 

[Kelly Padfield]

If they find the RDU is what's causing the vibration then that's warranty.

What I was saying is say your heated seat quits working that won't be on warranty because it's a totally new problem. But anything to do with the vibration is covered because it was a problem before warranty ended.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

 

[marius883]

That makes sense, thank you! I have now been in touch with Ford corporate via email. They have escalated my case and agreed that this is not the way a Ford customer should be treated. They are in the process of communicating with the dealer for a solution. Let's see what happens...

I bought one of those obd2 wifi dongles, I don't know much about cars, but I'm only reading 1 O2 sensor, is that normal? My engine temp when I shut her down here at work was 194. Is that a normal temp? Running stock atm

 

[Sholab1]

Stock I run 192, not sure on O2

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[marius883]

Stock I run 192, not sure on O2

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I guess it's in the normal range then phew!
My boost pressure seemed kind of all over the place, anywhere from 6-8.7 psi

 

[SHOdded]

What software are you using, first of all? Torque Pro or Forscan Lite? You should get 4 sensor readings off of either one, but you need to pick the right O2 (air/fuel) sensors also. Torque Pro has PIDs for wideband sensors (front O2s) so use Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 for those. Try O2 Sensor1 wide-range voltage and O2 Sensor 2 wide-range voltage see what you get. If those do not work, try O2 Volts Bank 1 Sensor 1 and O2 Volts Bank 2 Sensor 1. For the rear O2s (regular narrowband), use the regular O2 Volts Bank 1 Sensor 2 and O2 Volts Bank 2 Sensor 2 PIDs (further down the list of PIDs).

As far as boost, it's supposed to vary depending upon load/throttle conditions, but I'd not worry about that just yet.

 

[marius883]

What software are you using, first of all? Torque Pro or Forscan Lite? You should get 4 sensor readings off of either one, but you need to pick the right O2 (air/fuel) sensors also. Torque Pro has PIDs for wideband sensors (front O2s) so use Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 for those. Try O2 Sensor1 wide-range voltage and O2 Sensor 2 wide-range voltage see what you get. If those do not work, try O2 Volts Bank 1 Sensor 1 and O2 Volts Bank 2 Sensor 1. For the rear O2s (regular narrowband), use the regular O2 Volts Bank 1 Sensor 2 and O2 Volts Bank 2 Sensor 2 PIDs (further down the list of PIDs).

As far as boost, it's supposed to vary depending upon load/throttle conditions, but I'd not worry about that just yet.

I'm using OBD Fusion on iOS, since I don't have an android device. I will try changing those values when I get in the car again.

 

[marius883]

This is what it looks like

 

[SHOdded]

Will have to take a peek to see what's available in the selection list. These may be the Bank 1 Sensor 1 & Sensor 2 or not ...

BTW, the SHO has a MAP sensor, no MAF. See if there's a PID for the MAP sensor in the list.

 

[CZD3MY]

My take on the side emblems. I didn't like the chrome, it made them to obvious to me.