Snapped stud on turbo

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xartic1

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Well I was 2 bolts away from removing my front turbo downpipe when I ran into an issue. Im in the middle of swapping DPs to PPE ceramic/catless ones. As shown below, I was close to getting the nut off of the top of the turbo when it just snapped in half. Anyone have an idea of what can be done without replacing the turbo?

This is on a my 2014 Explorer Sport so I’d figured I would post here first before I pursued Ecoboostperformanceforums.

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yaycandy

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Try to get it to turn out on the other side the bit that sticks out. If not the easiest way would be to drill it out and retap it. May be easier by pulling the turbo. Hope its not your daily. But you can bolt your downpipes on and get it to a shop if it is your daily. Would just have an exhaust leak. Might skew the front o2 readings but its doubtful.
 

yaycandy

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It's not something to replace a turbo over. Its just a snapped stud, not like a snapped ******. Easy fix but yea its in the worst spot. Would just need extracted and at least a tap ran down it to clean up the threads on all 3 holes.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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Yeah, you got hosed by somebody who didn't use anti-seize...

If you want to do it yourself, you'll likely have to pull the turbo, but it isn't impossible once its out. If you want a shop to do it, do what @yaycandy said...just be prepared to pay quite a bit as the shop will DEFINITELY pull the turbo (or at least tell you they will and charge you accordingly)
 

xartic1

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Try to get it to turn out on the other side the bit that sticks out. If not the easiest way would be to drill it out and retap it. May be easier by pulling the turbo. Hope its not your daily. But you can bolt your downpipes on and get it to a shop if it is your daily. Would just have an exhaust leak. Might skew the front o2 readings but its doubtful.

Well I still have my Mustang that I can get around with as long as it doesn’t snow again soon in Colorado.

I’m draining my oil now so I can take the oil filter off and get to the 3rd nut easier. The front turbo is a bit easier to get off compared to the rear correct?

Yeah, you got hosed by somebody who didn't use anti-seize...

If you want to do it yourself, you'll likely have to pull the turbo, but it isn't impossible once its out. If you want a shop to do it, do what @yaycandy said...just be prepared to pay quite a bit as the shop will DEFINITELY pull the turbo (or at least tell you they will and charge you accordingly)

I’ll definitely remove the turbo to see what can be done before taking it to a shop.

Worst comes to worst, I’ll be looking at getting some AJPs since I’ll go ahead and replace both of the turbos since I have 100K on it.

Doesn’t help this Explorer came from Pennsylvania so everything has been borderline frozen in place.
 

yaycandy

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Well I still have my Mustang that I can get around with as long as it doesn’t snow again soon in Colorado.

I’m draining my oil now so I can take the oil filter off and get to the 3rd nut easier. The front turbo is a bit easier to get off compared to the rear correct?



I’ll definitely remove the turbo to see what can be done before taking it to a shop.

Worst comes to worst, I’ll be looking at getting some AJPs since I’ll go ahead and replace both of the turbos since I have 100K on it.

Doesn’t help this Explorer came from Pennsylvania so everything has been borderline frozen in place.

It was the easiest for me to pull. Not sure on the explorer radiators and fans and stuff in the way. I had to pull the rear once the engine was pulled out, that made it more easy.
 

yaycandy

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Well I still have my Mustang that I can get around with as long as it doesn’t snow again soon in Colorado.

I’m draining my oil now so I can take the oil filter off and get to the 3rd nut easier. The front turbo is a bit easier to get off compared to the rear correct?



I’ll definitely remove the turbo to see what can be done before taking it to a shop.

Worst comes to worst, I’ll be looking at getting some AJPs since I’ll go ahead and replace both of the turbos since I have 100K on it.

Doesn’t help this Explorer came from Pennsylvania so everything has been borderline frozen in place.

My 15 sho came from Michigan and somehow is rust free. Then again it had 25k miles on it when I did downpipes and 70k when I replaced turbos. Yea I'm sitting here now replacing calipers on my 90 sho with rusted as **** calipers for an always pa sho. Rust sucks. 3 hours on one caliper and 3 to go. Fun fun. Yea id replace the turbos if it were me, they develope hairline cracks and hopefully yours are fine for a core charge because ford really wants those turbos back and core price is a good bit.

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Ecoboost_xsport

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Well I still have my Mustang that I can get around with as long as it doesn’t snow again soon in Colorado.

I’m draining my oil now so I can take the oil filter off and get to the 3rd nut easier. The front turbo is a bit easier to get off compared to the rear correct?



I’ll definitely remove the turbo to see what can be done before taking it to a shop.

Worst comes to worst, I’ll be looking at getting some AJPs since I’ll go ahead and replace both of the turbos since I have 100K on it.

Doesn’t help this Explorer came from Pennsylvania so everything has been borderline frozen in place.
Yes, front is relatively easy. Heat is your friend. When you pull off the turbo, use a map gas torch to get the surround area nice and warm...
 

xartic1

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Any update on this?


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I went to bed early last night letting my oil drain so I could wake up early and tackle this. Ended up having some events to attend to and actually will be starting back working on it within the hour.

If I’m removing the turbo, will the coolant have to be drained beforehand?
 

luigisho

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Yea I'm sitting here now replacing calipers on my 90 sho with rusted as **** calipers for an always pa sho. Rust sucks. 3 hours on one caliper and 3 to go.
That's the same year and color as my 1st SHO except with way less rust than mine! That car undercarriage parts were a bitch to work on. Shed alot of blood on that one over the years. That car made me decide to travel and get non salt driven vehicles going forward.

xartic1-looking forward to see how you tackle this. Removed alot of broken bolts over the years but I'm not familiar with the geometry and room to work on what you have.
 

yaycandy

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That's the same year and color as my 1st SHO except with way less rust than mine! That car undercarriage parts were a bitch to work on. Shed alot of blood on that one over the years. That car made me decide to travel and get non salt driven vehicles going forward.

xartic1-looking forward to see how you tackle this. Removed alot of broken bolts over the years but I'm not familiar with the geometry and room to work on what you have.

I will have an update on the 90 sho by the end of the year. Car is done and beautiful on the inside and under the hood. Is scheduled for November to get fully painted. Sanded down, blocked and repainted. Cant remember the paint code but its a very very close same red but with alot more metallic. And finishing it up with Motegi rims and tires(brand undecided). Registered it already with NSRA and it will be at the york pa show next year. Sucks its the same week as Carlisle Ford Nationals though. It sorta a unique build, body and interior is all stock but it has side pipes, more sparkle and nice rims. There will be an update eventually this year hopefully
 

xartic1

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We had a family friend fall today and she is closer to 90 years old so that has been priority. It’s taking a while but I’m slowly drilling out the stud and going to tap it to an M8 or if I can get it out entirely, just run a M10 12.9 grade bolt. All 3 studs came out with the nut still on it so I don’t plan on reusing them but using 12.9 socket cap screws with anti seize.

Front turbo does look like it’s in good shape and spins freely so I’m happy about that. I posted a picture of that little guy as I was taking a break.

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Ecoboost_xsport

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We had a family friend fall today and she is closer to 90 years old so that has been priority. It’s taking a while but I’m slowly drilling out the stud and going to tap it to an M8 or if I can get it out entirely, just run a M10 12.9 grade bolt. All 3 studs came out with the nut still on it so I don’t plan on reusing them but using 12.9 socket cap screws with anti seize.

Front turbo does look like it’s in good shape and spins freely so I’m happy about that. I posted a picture of that little guy as I was taking a break.

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Why don't you just get new OEM studs and nuts? Dealership has them and they are relatively cheap


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Studs are PN W712458-S900

Nuts only come 4 to a bag and I think the same for studs...I just ALWAYS keep some extra ones laying around as I NEVER reuse these. Same with that gasket. Its too easy to replace while you're there and avoid and possibility of an exhaust leak or weakened stud that has been torqued too often.
 
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xartic1

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I’ve always like using socket cap screws better and I have HoloKrome fasteners that are USA made and known to run at a higher grade than 12.9. Also I really dislike my dealership around here so much I don’t even want to see the parts department’s faces. Plus they are closed till Monday and I won’t be able to go there till Thursday anyway due to work and I want to get it on the road by then.
 

yaycandy

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I’ve always like using socket cap screws better and I have HoloKrome fasteners that are USA made and known to run at a higher grade than 12.9. Also I really dislike my dealership around here so much I don’t even want to see the parts department’s faces. Plus they are closed till Monday and I won’t be able to go there till Thursday anyway due to work and I want to get it on the road by then.

Nice, I do the same thing on all my vehicles. I get the fasteners at a good deal from MSC on my work account
 

Michigan-SHO

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I’ve always like using socket cap screws better and I have HoloKrome fasteners that are USA made and known to run at a higher grade than 12.9. Also I really dislike my dealership around here so much I don’t even want to see the parts department’s faces. Plus they are closed till Monday and I won’t be able to go there till Thursday anyway due to work and I want to get it on the road by then.

I like your style


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xartic1

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I like your style


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Haha thanks.

This dealership also was trying to tell me a 14 SHO PP was slower than a 15 non PP because of gear ratio. In reality the 14 has a replaced turbo and I swear it was a 10 second 0-60 since the turbo wasn’t working or the wastegate was just completely open. I really wanted that 14 SHO but they said their mechanic didn’t see a CEL that it was fine. Not many PP SHOs for sale and the one I wanted was running like crap and they wouldn’t look into it at all. Even the saleman drove in both cars and was white knuckled in the 15 because it drove like a bad out of ****. Wasn’t going to argue with these idiots any further and took my money elsewhere.

Don’t even get me started on the parts/maintenance department lol.
 

Michigan-SHO

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Haha thanks.

This dealership also was trying to tell me a 14 SHO PP was slower than a 15 non PP because of gear ratio. In reality the 14 has a replaced turbo and I swear it was a 10 second 0-60 since the turbo wasn’t working or the wastegate was just completely open. I really wanted that 14 SHO but they said their mechanic didn’t see a CEL that it was fine. Not many PP SHOs for sale and the one I wanted was running like crap and they wouldn’t look into it at all. Even the saleman drove in both cars and was white knuckled in the 15 because it drove like a bad out of ****. Wasn’t going to argue with these idiots any further and took my money elsewhere.

Don’t even get me started on the parts/maintenance department lol.

Good lord that sounds like a shit show. I do not work at a dealership so this is completely unfounded but, I believe certain dealerships help fellow employees before they make a sale to a customer.

Because of this it puts a bad taste in the mouth of most consumers looking for a quality car through a dealership. Again I am not part of a dealership and don’t know for sure but...


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