luigisho
SHO Member
I wonder if the VEVOR or similar cheap ones are useable for $150ish
SM105K's SHO BIBLE/BUILDS/LIFE
- Thread starter SM105K
- Start date
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
We are going to find out, because that is exactly what I bought.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
F450 Update: So I have a pile of parts that I am planning on installing this weekend.
- Riff Raff Billet Intake Inlets
- CNC High Pressure Oil Pump Line with rear head Crossover
- KC Turbo 6.0 upgraded Intercooler (+51 percent bigger than the stock 7.3)
Unfortunately, that means I have to disassemble the fuel bowl (I did get all of the new o-rings and gaskets), yank the spider, and the turbo off again to install the HPOP lines and intake inlets.
The IC is pretty straight forward with the top of the radiator support removal and some clips here and there. Not too bad at all.
Today I will build the the top side creeper and tomorrow, bright and early I will start my journey. The good thing is, since I will have bunch of stuff apart, I will be able to get to properly clean and dejunk some stuff.
Next weekend I am loading the camper up, pulling a pop up trailer behind it. There will be alot of highway miles and some pretty extreme mountain climbs, so hopefully these upgrades will come in clutch.
- Riff Raff Billet Intake Inlets
- CNC High Pressure Oil Pump Line with rear head Crossover
- KC Turbo 6.0 upgraded Intercooler (+51 percent bigger than the stock 7.3)
Unfortunately, that means I have to disassemble the fuel bowl (I did get all of the new o-rings and gaskets), yank the spider, and the turbo off again to install the HPOP lines and intake inlets.
The IC is pretty straight forward with the top of the radiator support removal and some clips here and there. Not too bad at all.
Today I will build the the top side creeper and tomorrow, bright and early I will start my journey. The good thing is, since I will have bunch of stuff apart, I will be able to get to properly clean and dejunk some stuff.
Next weekend I am loading the camper up, pulling a pop up trailer behind it. There will be alot of highway miles and some pretty extreme mountain climbs, so hopefully these upgrades will come in clutch.
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Updated F450 Upgrade List: (Mainly for my memory and Tracking)
Maintenance:
Replaced Serpentine Belt. @169.8K
Install stock OEM Motorcraft Fuel Bowl Cap.
Install OEM fuel filter. @169k
Change the oil and oil filter. Changed at 169K.
Install Passenger Side and Driverside EGT Probe.
New Yokohama Tires@170K
Engine Power Mods - Power Goals 300 to 400 hp and 800 tq
Install KC Gen 3 Stage 1 Turbo @169k
Install Bellowed Up-Pipes @169k
Install New EBPD Turbo Pedestal @169k
Install Banks Ram Air Cold Air Intake @169k
Remove the front grill, and perform the Zoodad mod. @169k
Install Edge CTS 3 with Dash Pod
Install PHP Hydra
Install the fuel pressure sensor, and connect it to the CTS 3.
Install the stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring and rebuild fuel bowl. @169k
Install Riff Raff Billet Intake Inlets @171k
Install CNC High Pressure Oil Pump Line with rear head Crossover Line @171k
Install KC Turbo 6.0 upgraded Intercooler @171K
Air Dog Lift Pump or FASS System
205/30 Injectors or 180/30 Injectors (still trying to decide
Transmission Mods
Install Mishimoto Upgraded 6.0 Liter Trans Cooler @171K
Upgrade the 4R100 Valve Body (still looking at different options)
Mag Hytec Deep Trans Pan
Billet TC
Suspension Mods
Install Air Ride Load Lifter 5000 Air Bags for the Rear @171K
On board Air Compressor
Install Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Maintenance:
Install OEM fuel filter.
New Yokohama Tires
Engine Power Mods - Power Goals 300 to 400 hp and 800 tq
Install PHP Hydra
Install the fuel pressure sensor, and connect it to the CTS 3.
Install the stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring and rebuild fuel bowl.
Air Dog Lift Pump or FASS System
205/30 Injectors or 180/30 Injectors (still trying to decide
Transmission Mods
Upgrade the 4R100 Valve Body (still looking at different options)
Mag Hytec Deep Trans Pan
Billet TC
Suspension Mods
On board Air Compressor
Install Rancho Steering Stabilizer
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Vevor Topside Creeper Review:
@luigisho
Typical China crappy cardboard box.....
All parts and pieces were there. Instructions were pretty clear. The top pad that you rest on is pretty thin. Might want to bolster it.
Like an idiot, I built the damn thing and didn't take a picture of the finished product. However, I spent more than 10 hours on this thing over the weekend. It is made pretty well. I weigh 280 lbs and I never felt like it was going bend or break. It is adjustable forward and back and up and down. I put an old pillow on the topside pad to bolster it.
Overall for $180 delivered to by house, the Vevor is the way to go and I would recommend it for the garage mechanic. For a shop mechanic or a HD mechanic......no.
@luigisho
Typical China crappy cardboard box.....
All parts and pieces were there. Instructions were pretty clear. The top pad that you rest on is pretty thin. Might want to bolster it.
Like an idiot, I built the damn thing and didn't take a picture of the finished product. However, I spent more than 10 hours on this thing over the weekend. It is made pretty well. I weigh 280 lbs and I never felt like it was going bend or break. It is adjustable forward and back and up and down. I put an old pillow on the topside pad to bolster it.
Overall for $180 delivered to by house, the Vevor is the way to go and I would recommend it for the garage mechanic. For a shop mechanic or a HD mechanic......no.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
F450 Update:
Here was the pile of parts that I wanted* to install on the truck.
The billet intake plenums and the High Pressure Oil Lines are a pretty involved job. I removed the charge pipes, intake spider, unplugged all sensors, moved the engine harness to the passenger side, removed the fuel bowl, turbo, and turbo pedestal.
Driver side plenum is easy. There isn't much in the way to remove it. While I was in there, I used my steam cleaner to clean everything that I could. Then I put my focus on the passenger side plenum. It is buried under a bunch of crap and then the last bolt holding is blocked by the High Pressure Oil Pump. IYKYK.
So like everyone else, out comes the sawzall and I cut the bolt out.
Fresh and Clean Valley. Billet Plenums in, and the new HPOP lines are installed.
I replaced all O-rings for the Turbo Pedestal and Turbo. Crossover line was installed next.
Pro Tip: When reinstalling the bellowed up-pipes to the turbo, loosen the bottom bolts of the up-pipes on the exhaust manifolds. That gives you the play so you can secure the manifold to the turbo properly. The bellows stretch after you re-tighten the bottom bolts.
Threw everything back together. I even cleaned the couplers and retainers with my steamer.
Funny story my big toe in that photo, was literally crushed by a 100lb weight. It is exploded and healed itself...pretty jacked up. LOL.
So I was unable to install the KC IC. It is based off the 6.0 liter IC and the 6.0 liter trans cooler. It is not compatible with the 7.3 liter trans cooler without modification. So before I install the IC, I need to get the correct trans cooler and everything will be copasetic. Probably upgrade to the Mishimoto trans cooler.
After everything was put back together, I ran a boost leak test. For the first time since I have owned this truck....I have confirmed, NO BOOST OR EXHAUST LEAKS. Now this MF tractor ***** and gets. I think the most I have seen on the boost gauge was 20 psi. I was startled when it touched 26 psi. Overall the truck runs completely different. The old 7.3 gets the 10,000 lbs rolling along pretty good. Also the truck seems to want to run 75 mph really easy on the freeway now which is exactly right where I want it to be.
This weekend will be a really good test.
Here was the pile of parts that I wanted* to install on the truck.
The billet intake plenums and the High Pressure Oil Lines are a pretty involved job. I removed the charge pipes, intake spider, unplugged all sensors, moved the engine harness to the passenger side, removed the fuel bowl, turbo, and turbo pedestal.
Driver side plenum is easy. There isn't much in the way to remove it. While I was in there, I used my steam cleaner to clean everything that I could. Then I put my focus on the passenger side plenum. It is buried under a bunch of crap and then the last bolt holding is blocked by the High Pressure Oil Pump. IYKYK.
So like everyone else, out comes the sawzall and I cut the bolt out.
Fresh and Clean Valley. Billet Plenums in, and the new HPOP lines are installed.
I replaced all O-rings for the Turbo Pedestal and Turbo. Crossover line was installed next.
Pro Tip: When reinstalling the bellowed up-pipes to the turbo, loosen the bottom bolts of the up-pipes on the exhaust manifolds. That gives you the play so you can secure the manifold to the turbo properly. The bellows stretch after you re-tighten the bottom bolts.
Threw everything back together. I even cleaned the couplers and retainers with my steamer.
Funny story my big toe in that photo, was literally crushed by a 100lb weight. It is exploded and healed itself...pretty jacked up. LOL.
So I was unable to install the KC IC. It is based off the 6.0 liter IC and the 6.0 liter trans cooler. It is not compatible with the 7.3 liter trans cooler without modification. So before I install the IC, I need to get the correct trans cooler and everything will be copasetic. Probably upgrade to the Mishimoto trans cooler.
After everything was put back together, I ran a boost leak test. For the first time since I have owned this truck....I have confirmed, NO BOOST OR EXHAUST LEAKS. Now this MF tractor ***** and gets. I think the most I have seen on the boost gauge was 20 psi. I was startled when it touched 26 psi. Overall the truck runs completely different. The old 7.3 gets the 10,000 lbs rolling along pretty good. Also the truck seems to want to run 75 mph really easy on the freeway now which is exactly right where I want it to be.
This weekend will be a really good test.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
F450 Update: So this past weekend, Betty hauled the camper about 800 miles. She did great. Averaged right at 12 mpg on the freeway at 72 mph. There were some big hills and she sustained them at highway speeds. EGTS were great. Only once did I see over 1250 degrees and that was for a couple of seconds. Most hills they hovered at 1100 in overdrive while sustaining speed.
I saw mid 20's in boost for long periods of time. That makes me feel good that all of the couplers are not leaking and all of my hard has paid off installed the billet plenums and getting all of boost leaks fixed.
However next thing is trans temps. Going down the freeway and up hills at freeway speeds trans temps were about 185 degrees. Highest I saw in the freeway going up a grade was 201 degrees. It quickly recovered, and settled back at 185 again.
However, once I had to start a slow 5 to 6 percent grade with switch backs at 10 to 15 mph in first gear, my trans temps went up to 240. The temp outside was 55. They would have gone higher, but I pulled off each time and let it cool back down to 190 and would start my climb again. I could only get about a mile up the road each time before it would get back up to 240.
The motor was having zero issues providing power, but the trans was having issues delivering that power. When I changed from the 4.88 to the 3.73 I knew climbing would be impacted. Thus is it with the longer/higher gear. So next on the list is a Mag Hytech Deep Trans Pan (adds an addition 7 quarts of fluid) coupled with a different trans cooler. I haven't decided which trans cooler however. Still trying to figure which one will be best with my upgraded KC intercooler. Also I might need a converter change so help with the new gearing.
So stayed tuned....lol.
I saw mid 20's in boost for long periods of time. That makes me feel good that all of the couplers are not leaking and all of my hard has paid off installed the billet plenums and getting all of boost leaks fixed.
However next thing is trans temps. Going down the freeway and up hills at freeway speeds trans temps were about 185 degrees. Highest I saw in the freeway going up a grade was 201 degrees. It quickly recovered, and settled back at 185 again.
However, once I had to start a slow 5 to 6 percent grade with switch backs at 10 to 15 mph in first gear, my trans temps went up to 240. The temp outside was 55. They would have gone higher, but I pulled off each time and let it cool back down to 190 and would start my climb again. I could only get about a mile up the road each time before it would get back up to 240.
The motor was having zero issues providing power, but the trans was having issues delivering that power. When I changed from the 4.88 to the 3.73 I knew climbing would be impacted. Thus is it with the longer/higher gear. So next on the list is a Mag Hytech Deep Trans Pan (adds an addition 7 quarts of fluid) coupled with a different trans cooler. I haven't decided which trans cooler however. Still trying to figure which one will be best with my upgraded KC intercooler. Also I might need a converter change so help with the new gearing.
So stayed tuned....lol.
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Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I saw someone convert a AC condenser into a transcooler, not practical but large footprint, pretty sure it was on a 90s chevy 3500. I would recommend a remote style cooler with the fan attached to it even if you dont remote mount it, then you can either switch it on yourself or wire it to a thermostatic switch. slow speeds up long grades wont pull much air across the fins, plus if you did remote mount it, it would keep the heat away from the IC
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I thought about that. I ended up going with the Mishimoto 6.0 Liter trans cooler. I don't plan on doing that type of slow driving up hill that much. Hopefully the bigger trans cooler, and bigger pan (with 7 more quarts of fluid) will help if I do. If it doesn't, then a remote style cooler will be in order.
On Friday I am getting the Air Ride Load Lifter 5000 Air Bags installed. Hopefully everything goes well with that. If all is well, I plan on installing the Trans Cooler and Intercooler this weekend as well.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I also forgot to add, that I put new tires on Betty. New Yokohama rubber has really changed the ride. The old tires were 6 years old and starting to crack. So $2900 later......worth it.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I actually sold a couple trucks because I couldn't afford to put tires on them. Truck tire prices are insane and have only gotten worse, worth it or not, I sold an 88 Bronco Eddie Bauer with a 6" lift, mint interior, straight rust free body, and 16x10 Mickey Thompson bullet holes for $1300, it needed some paint correction, a bumper, and rubber. Bought an 02 Expedition Eddie Bauer with almost new Bridgestones on it, ran em to the wear lines and had to sell it because again, couldnt afford the tires. Crown vic was the next car intentionally bought so I could afford tires, Got the Goodyear Eagle RS-As for $25 a piece because the local sheriffs station replaces whole sets when one gets a puncture. Fast forward to now, The SHO and the Truck I currently have. SHO got brand new Goodyears last year, the set ran me about $900 installed, Truck is on used 285s after riding on coopers for 8 years that I got on BOGO and still had an $800 bill.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Yeah tires are not cheap. However, you have to do what you have to do.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
F450 Update: So this past weekend, I installed the KC's Upgraded Intercooler, and the Mishimoto 6.0 Trans Cooler. I kinda screwed up, because the 7.3 Trans Cooler comes with pre-made extended lines, and the 6.0 Trans Cooler does not. Mishi assumes that you already have the lines if you have the trans cooler...so yeah. Building the lines with push lock hose and AN fittings ran me an additional $153. Damn you Scuba Steve.
However you can see how much bigger the new Mishi TC is compared to the stock Ford 7.3 TC.
Needless to say, my trans ran about 185 in normal driving unloaded. While pulling hills at freeway speeds with the camper, I saw 185 sustained and it would rise to 200 ish, and then drop back down to normal. The Big Bear steep climb where the trans got hot was not a normal trip so.......I don't count it against the old trans cooler, if anything it made me move faster.
However the new Mishimoto Trans Cooler has dropped the temps below 150 degrees. I have driven it about 100 miles, and have not seen anything over 150 degrees. I am still on planning adding a deep pan so that should really help regulate trans temps as well.
Next up was the KC Turbos Upgraded 6.0 Liter IC. As you can see, it is bigger and thicker than the stock one. KC says it is 51% bigger. I can see it....... The install was super easy. I did the trans cooler and IC at the same time.
The stock IC temps would hover around +40 degrees from the intake temp sensor in the air box to the IAT2 sensor in the spider intake after IC right before the billet inlet plenums.
The upgraded IC keeps the temps between +25 to 30 degrees. So roughly a 10 degree drop. That will help later when I add fuel injectors and we start really making power.
Quite a bit thicker......(that's what she said!)
Quite a bit taller as well.
Both installed in the truck....
All in all the installs were not too bad and I am digging the performance the gains.
However you can see how much bigger the new Mishi TC is compared to the stock Ford 7.3 TC.
Needless to say, my trans ran about 185 in normal driving unloaded. While pulling hills at freeway speeds with the camper, I saw 185 sustained and it would rise to 200 ish, and then drop back down to normal. The Big Bear steep climb where the trans got hot was not a normal trip so.......I don't count it against the old trans cooler, if anything it made me move faster.
However the new Mishimoto Trans Cooler has dropped the temps below 150 degrees. I have driven it about 100 miles, and have not seen anything over 150 degrees. I am still on planning adding a deep pan so that should really help regulate trans temps as well.
Next up was the KC Turbos Upgraded 6.0 Liter IC. As you can see, it is bigger and thicker than the stock one. KC says it is 51% bigger. I can see it....... The install was super easy. I did the trans cooler and IC at the same time.
The stock IC temps would hover around +40 degrees from the intake temp sensor in the air box to the IAT2 sensor in the spider intake after IC right before the billet inlet plenums.
The upgraded IC keeps the temps between +25 to 30 degrees. So roughly a 10 degree drop. That will help later when I add fuel injectors and we start really making power.
Quite a bit thicker......(that's what she said!)
Quite a bit taller as well.
Both installed in the truck....
All in all the installs were not too bad and I am digging the performance the gains.
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
F450 Update: I also bought the Air Ride 5000 Lift Bag kit for the ole girl for the rear. The truck rides like a tank and this is one part of the solution. I wanted the bags for load management, and for ride dampening. I did not install these. I had a local company install them.
I have been messing with air pressures within the bags to see if I can get the ride a bit better. It is working and I have settled on 30 psi unloaded. With the camper it will be another story, and I will have to figure that out when the time comes.
I have been messing with air pressures within the bags to see if I can get the ride a bit better. It is working and I have settled on 30 psi unloaded. With the camper it will be another story, and I will have to figure that out when the time comes.
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Updated F450 Upgrade List: (Mainly for my memory and tracking)
Maintenance:
Replaced Serpentine Belt. @169.8K
Install stock OEM Motorcraft Fuel Bowl Cap.
Install OEM fuel filter. @169k
Change the oil and oil filter. Changed at 169K.
Install Passenger Side and Driverside EGT Probe.
New Yokohama Tires@170K
Engine Power Mods - Power Goals 400 hp to 500 hp and 1000 tq
Install KC Gen 3 Stage 1 Turbo @169k
Install Bellowed Up-Pipes @169k
Install New EBPD Turbo Pedestal @169k
Install Banks Ram Air Cold Air Intake @169k
Remove the front grill, and perform the Zoodad mod. @169k
Install Edge CTS 3 with Dash Pod
Install PHP Hydra
Install the fuel pressure sensor, and connect it to the CTS 3.
Install the stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring and rebuild fuel bowl. @169k
Install Riff Raff Billet Intake Inlets @171k
Install CNC High Pressure Oil Pump Line with rear head Crossover Line @171k
Install KC Turbo 6.0 upgraded Intercooler @171K
FASS Ti Fuel System (140 GPH Rate)
Fleece Sureflo Sending Unit
205/30 Injectors or 180/30 Injectors (still trying to decide)
Transmission Mods
Install Mishimoto Upgraded 6.0 Liter Trans Cooler @171K
Upgrade the 4R100 Valve Body (still looking at different options)
Mag Hytec Deep Trans Pan
Billet TC
Suspension Mods
Install Air Ride Load Lifter 5000 Air Bags for the Rear @171K
Install Air Ride Load Lifter 5000 Air Bags for the Front @171K
On board Air Compressor
Install Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Install ALCOA M14 x 2.0 Lug Nuts
Maintenance:
Install OEM fuel filter.
New Yokohama Tires
Engine Power Mods - Power Goals 400 hp to 500 hp and 1000 tq
Install PHP Hydra
Install the fuel pressure sensor, and connect it to the CTS 3.
Install the stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring and rebuild fuel bowl.
FASS Ti Fuel System (140 GPH Rate)
Fleece Sureflo Sending Unit
205/30 Injectors or 180/30 Injectors (still trying to decide)
Transmission Mods
Upgrade the 4R100 Valve Body (still looking at different options)
Mag Hytec Deep Trans Pan
Billet TC
Suspension Mods
On board Air Compressor
Install Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Install ALCOA M14 x 2.0 Lug Nuts
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Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
Damn, Big Betty is getting some love!
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
So something to think about and want yall's opinion. My truck unloaded I am pretty sure weighs about 10,000 lbs. My buddies 10,000 lbs rated lift, said nah and couldn't pick the truck up. However, I am planning on going to the dump this weekend because I have a ton of big cardboard boxes ect. It gives me the excuse to go and the truck weighed.
So this is where you guys come in. My brother and I have disagreement. I put the air bags in the rear and it really helped the ride in the rear of the truck. It stopped the axle hitting the bump stops, and it really dampened the harsh jolts and bumps with the truck.
That being said, the front of my truck rides on a double leaf spring set up with a single shock. The set up is below.
I believe since the truck weighs so much, that the front would benefit from a front air ride bag system like the rear. I am thinking on the lines of a "air" coil. I believe the bags will do something on the lines of what the rear did. The fronts never hit the bumps stops, but I believe the air bags at the correct air pressure will dampen the harsh jolts and bumps from the front of the truck and improve ride quality.
The Air Bag would go where I have outlined in blue.
He thinks the exact opposite will happen and that it will make the front ride worse and suggests that I just go with a softer shock. Either way two new shocks are within $100 of the air bag system, I would install either one myself.
So either way...
@Junkyard_Mad-Scientist what do you think?
So this is where you guys come in. My brother and I have disagreement. I put the air bags in the rear and it really helped the ride in the rear of the truck. It stopped the axle hitting the bump stops, and it really dampened the harsh jolts and bumps with the truck.
That being said, the front of my truck rides on a double leaf spring set up with a single shock. The set up is below.
I believe since the truck weighs so much, that the front would benefit from a front air ride bag system like the rear. I am thinking on the lines of a "air" coil. I believe the bags will do something on the lines of what the rear did. The fronts never hit the bumps stops, but I believe the air bags at the correct air pressure will dampen the harsh jolts and bumps from the front of the truck and improve ride quality.
The Air Bag would go where I have outlined in blue.
He thinks the exact opposite will happen and that it will make the front ride worse and suggests that I just go with a softer shock. Either way two new shocks are within $100 of the air bag system, I would install either one myself.
So either way...
@Junkyard_Mad-Scientist what do you think?
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
My money goes incredibly way further with Betty than with Elizabeth.
OK did we not know that he will be going all out, it's not his style to glean a little love put to pour it on. where does he find the time?
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I have 28 hour days and I run a 9 day work week.
All jokes aside. I do a lot of driving. I think I drove almost 40k miles this year alone, and I only work 8 miles from home. When something isn't right with one of my vehicles it starts to fester, and then my impulsiveness runs literally out of control. That creates a cascade situation and my scope creep goes way extreme. Couple all of that with my Vehicular OCD, and add that I really like to learn (esp when it comes to new stuff like diesels) I make as much time as I can to literally chill my brain out and "fix" the problems that have manifested within said brain.
I am dead serious when I "joke" I hate money and clearly my sanity.
Everything else in my life is pretty normal, except when it comes to vehicles. Vehicles are my tisim....
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