It doesn't. When I filled mine using the fill plug, I only got about 14oz, roughly, into it. He got an entire bottle of shock proof out of it.
SM105K's Ownership/Performance/Maintenance Thread
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It doesn't. When I filled mine using the fill plug, I only got about 14oz, roughly, into it. He got an entire bottle of shock proof out of it.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Actually, it does, technically, "fit" but it's only supposed to be filled with 18oz, according to Ford Service Manual. It's not supposed to be overfilled, but looks like his may have been, or trans fluid is leaking past a seal into the PTU.
I was able to get the 18oz in mine when I just did it.
802SHO
Stock Cams
That had to be pouring out when they plugged it. That’s nuts. I would send out a sample to BlackStone. Request a sample kit it’s free, it’s like $25 or so for the results. Decent mileage on it too. One thing is for sure it isn’t sludge! And can tell it’s green in color so that all looks good. I’m surprised it didn’t blow by the shaft seal.
802SHO
Stock Cams
What would be the downside of overfilling it?
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Heat causes expansion....also depending on how compressible it is...could get interesting.
802SHO
Stock Cams
Easton seems to be letting us know how overfilling has so far causes no issues. Damn trans shop going nutty on his fluids. 32 oz is nuts but maybe 20 would be for good measure
6500rpm
Quality Always Shoots Straight
Typically, anything significantly over shaft seals is leak prone. Lip seals just dont do well in that respect. Jordan, if you see the thread again, heigth wise, where is the fill hole in respect to the axle shafts on your PTU? Picture in your thread looks about even, but its hard to tell.
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802SHO
Stock Cams
My PTU has leaked past the shaft seal since I bought it. I guess the reason I never care to address this is because it’s never accumulated to a single drop on the ground...so it can leak a little for all of eternity for all I care...as I’ll replace the PTU entirely before replacing just a seal
Jordan_R
Stock Block Ready To Knock...er..Rock
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I have been working on this SHO today.
Drilled and tapped the PTU and RDU. Things went smoothly. Replaced both fluids with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Trans got a 5 out and 5 in. His PP SHO didnt come with a traction control button. It was a factory mistake. So we purchased one and I installed it. Car is smoother and the new owner is happy.
Drilled and tapped the PTU and RDU. Things went smoothly. Replaced both fluids with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Trans got a 5 out and 5 in. His PP SHO didnt come with a traction control button. It was a factory mistake. So we purchased one and I installed it. Car is smoother and the new owner is happy.
802SHO
Stock Cams
That’s cool you helped him out! What did his fluid coming out look like?
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
His RDU was almost perfect. His PTU fluid was dark but still vary viscous. Trans was fluid was dark as well.
Car is clean. 1 owner (besides himself), super clean, and he immediately noticed much smoother it was after the fluld swap.
Since we got to swap in his traction control button, I even got to teach him how to launch the car.
802SHO
Stock Cams
Nothing like a night out hurting everyone’s feelings
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
So I ventured into Intercooler cooling....lol. I bought this off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Windsh...sher+nozzle+3w7z17603aa&qid=1600441530&sr=8-4
I disconnected the washer line at the junction near the shock tower. I ran the new line in the same path as my UPR CC line. Routed it to the front and used the motor to drain all of the wind shield washer fluid out of it. This is where I ran into my first issue. When you depress the fluid button the damn windshield wipers start moving. That is no good. So I pulled the relay for the wipers hoping it wouldn't **** the pump too....it did. Damn it.
So I made the executive decision. Who needs wipers if you just keep going fast? Haha! Wiper removal was easy. Take off the 15 mm nut holding them them on. I used PB blaster first so it helped getting the wipers off the splined mounting rod. I threw the wipers in the trunk and I have a small tool kit in there as well in case I have to throw them on quickly. I rarely drive my SHO in crappy weather so I am not worried.
I mounted the fan pattern sprayers onto my trans cooler mounts. They spray directly down between the condenser and the IC. Both of them almost spray the whole intercooler. When deployed the water gets pulled into the IC and then has to pass through the radiator before getting to the fans. I had my GF hold the button and I watched and made adjustments. Hardly any water except a very fine mist made it past the fans.
I loaded the windshield washer with a bunch of ice water and proceed to do some basic testing. It was 93 degrees ambient and I got the car good and heat soaked. First pull IAT's started at 145 and dropped to 132 without using the sprayer. Next pass I pre-sprayed and soaked the IC with ice water at a stand still. Then I lauched. I wanted to see if any water would effect any aspect of the launch. IAT's started at 145 but quickly dropped to 118. So the ice water netted me a drop in 14 degrees. For reference on a stock tune every 10 degrees over 100 degrees the computer pulls 1 degree of timing. So I feel this could be a quick mod for the stock IC guys wanting a bit more cooling.
I will still need to datalog the runs. I left my computer at home. I will check to see the difference in temp after IC and temp at the top map sensor with and with out spraying the IC. I know we get hot in the intake because of the coolant pipe and engine. So I may have to yank the intake and heat wrap that pipe. I since the intake will be off, I might as well inspect the valves and walnut blast them it I have too.
14 dollars for 14 degrees? Worth it in my book.
I still have that CO2 chiller bar to install as well. Hopefully I can water log the IC and use the CO2 to freeze the cooler.
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Windsh...sher+nozzle+3w7z17603aa&qid=1600441530&sr=8-4
I disconnected the washer line at the junction near the shock tower. I ran the new line in the same path as my UPR CC line. Routed it to the front and used the motor to drain all of the wind shield washer fluid out of it. This is where I ran into my first issue. When you depress the fluid button the damn windshield wipers start moving. That is no good. So I pulled the relay for the wipers hoping it wouldn't **** the pump too....it did. Damn it.
So I made the executive decision. Who needs wipers if you just keep going fast? Haha! Wiper removal was easy. Take off the 15 mm nut holding them them on. I used PB blaster first so it helped getting the wipers off the splined mounting rod. I threw the wipers in the trunk and I have a small tool kit in there as well in case I have to throw them on quickly. I rarely drive my SHO in crappy weather so I am not worried.
I mounted the fan pattern sprayers onto my trans cooler mounts. They spray directly down between the condenser and the IC. Both of them almost spray the whole intercooler. When deployed the water gets pulled into the IC and then has to pass through the radiator before getting to the fans. I had my GF hold the button and I watched and made adjustments. Hardly any water except a very fine mist made it past the fans.
I loaded the windshield washer with a bunch of ice water and proceed to do some basic testing. It was 93 degrees ambient and I got the car good and heat soaked. First pull IAT's started at 145 and dropped to 132 without using the sprayer. Next pass I pre-sprayed and soaked the IC with ice water at a stand still. Then I lauched. I wanted to see if any water would effect any aspect of the launch. IAT's started at 145 but quickly dropped to 118. So the ice water netted me a drop in 14 degrees. For reference on a stock tune every 10 degrees over 100 degrees the computer pulls 1 degree of timing. So I feel this could be a quick mod for the stock IC guys wanting a bit more cooling.
I will still need to datalog the runs. I left my computer at home. I will check to see the difference in temp after IC and temp at the top map sensor with and with out spraying the IC. I know we get hot in the intake because of the coolant pipe and engine. So I may have to yank the intake and heat wrap that pipe. I since the intake will be off, I might as well inspect the valves and walnut blast them it I have too.
14 dollars for 14 degrees? Worth it in my book.
I still have that CO2 chiller bar to install as well. Hopefully I can water log the IC and use the CO2 to freeze the cooler.
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Michigan-SHO
SHO Member
Once you freeze the IC are your concerned with moisture developing inside the intercooler itself?
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SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Not one bit. Hot turbo air will take care of that rather quickly. Plus a minimum amount of water going into the engine (if any) really doesn't affect performance.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
Yup, would be just vapor anyway. Not to mention, methanol injection kits often use various ratios of water-to-meth to keep combustion chamber temps down so a bit of water vapor is not unheard of...
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