Signs of bad DIS Module?

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frosho

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Take it off the hood and put it back on the body somewhere. You could even put it on the negative battery terminal if you want, but that shouldn't be necessary. By putting it on the hood, you've effectively lengthened the ground path, since it has to go through the body in order to get back to the battery anyway. If there's a bad connection between the hood and body (not unlikely), it could cause problems.
 

jbserra

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I tried to pull codes, but missed them the first time or they didn't make sense when I looked them up. I think I was off on my beeps. I repeated the tests and got All System Ok. Grrrrrrrrrrr!

I drove the car around and it ran fine. I'll have to wait for another occurrence and then get the codes.
 

jbserra

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Ok, it did it again on my drive home. The tack did not drop to zero, but it seemed to bounce between 500 and 1000 RPM with the check engine light on and I could rev it slowly up with the clutch in, but it was hard to get the car moving. I rev'd it up to 3k rpm and let the clutch out slowly. I was able to get the car in motion even with this condition occurring, but I had to keep the RPMs up. It almost felt like I was missing a cylinder, but I guess I haven't had that happen before so I can't know for sure. At some point during this limping drive home, it just hit a point where it went back to normal and the rest of the drive was uneventful.

I pulled the codes and got
KOEO: 111 & 214
KOER: 111

214 = Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor - circuit failure

Confirmed the Camshaft position sensor?
 

kevinspann

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I've been trying to tell sack that his engine problem isn't a bent valve, and NOW he decides to listen ;)
 

frosho

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If your tach stopped working, the cause is most likely the cam sensor. Check for codes, you probably have a 214.
 

jbserra

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Well, the issue came to a head on Tuesday, bucking and puking and wreaking havoc on my motor mounts, so I parked it (fortunately I made it home). I got the dremel in there and unsuccessfully took care of those little stripped bolts. Upon better inspection, I saw there was a small metal piece bolted to the engine that the cam sensor was attached. While most of you probably knew that already, I thought my only hope was to get those stripped bolts out. Well, blindly unbolting the metal ****** from the engine, a couple hammer taps and I had the two pieces out in one piece. Dremel the tops of the bolts and the sensor was off. Had to run around a little to find 4mmx20mm bolts, but I found those and put it all back together.

Started up quickly and has driven better so far. The true test will be on my way home today where I hit the infamous two miles of road where it always seems to act up. Here's hoping this was the issue.

Thanks all!
 

jbserra

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Well, it has made it the last couple days with no issues. Performance has increased as well.

Thanks everyone. I'll make a $$ contribution to the site. Saved me some money :)
 

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